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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2005, 08:21 AM
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I haven't had a chance to look at it again with college starting, but everything from the equalizer bar down is correct. The only thing it can be is within the spring or maybe a worn out pedal support bushing. This weekend I am going to pull the pedal assembly and look everything over and make sure nothing is broke or worn out.

BTW where do I find a weaker pedal return spring???

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2005, 06:36 AM
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Clutch

After re-reading the thread. If the clutch is on the floor and still fully engaged, it has to be something in the linkage. Something is either worn or broken or assembled wrong. If you pull the clutch all the way up is there a space between where the clutch rod hits the fork and the fork itself. If so the linkage is way to short. If not the problem is with the fork. If the helper spring was to heavy and it hung the pedal on the floor then the clutch would be disengaged. I would check the pivot point. There is a lot of stress there and you have a lot of leverage with the pedal. Perhaps when the linkage was modified it put to much stress on the pivot and broke something. This should be easy to see. If you go under the car and have someone move the pedal up and down the problem should become obvious.

Good Luck
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2005, 11:52 AM
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I would have to go with the posts of those talking about the equalizer bar flexing/cracking. It is a common problem and used to be reinforced as a matter of practice when they were drag raced because of it. Another possibilty could be a slight misalignment between the frame support and the one on the engine, if the mounts have sagged. If the mount has failed on driver's side it could also allow the engine to lift under torque and bind it up.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2005, 02:17 PM
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There was a time when I had to pull the clutch pedal in my '66 Mustang back up with my toe. If the clutch linkage in your Merc is like the linkage in my Mustang, and I suspect it is very similar, several problems can make the linkage hang up. The nylon pivots at the ends of the equalizer tube have been mentioned; they contribute a lot of slop if they're worn. Make sure the bolts on the chassis-mounted pivot post are tight, too. The biggest culprits in the Mustang were the pot-metal bushings in the pedal support up under the dash. They were way beyond merely worn, and caused the pedal shaft to bind. I replaced the bushings with bearings and left out the large assist spring when I put everything back together. (I'll try to find the info about the bearing retrofit kit; just installing new stock-type bushings would be a big help, though.) I also replaced the pullback spring on the throwout arm with a new one. The linkage has worked smoothly ever since, and I'm using a diaphragm clutch. I'm going to put rod ends on the linkage rods one of these days to really make it smooth.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2005, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454me
Try this. Have some one push the clutch petal in real slow while you are under the car and watch it. I have seen the flat pieces of metal peal away from the pivot shaft when the clutch is pushed. I have seen forks that are cracked flex when the petal is pushed. Its amazing how you wont even see the crack in the metal unless the clutch is pushed in. Just watch it and see if there is anything wrong.

AMEN, glad you said it,,,,,,, I agree
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2005, 10:47 AM
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I don't have any of these problems, but if I do it will be a PITA to find it because the fork is internally mounted inside the trans housing. (it;s a hydraulic unit) I want a regular style clutch, no hydro or anything to simplify it, but it would be impossible on my trans unless I swapped it.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2005, 03:21 PM
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Did you get it fixed or find out what was wrong?
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