Clutch problems on 66 Mercury - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2005, 09:41 AM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 901
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Clutch problems on 66 Mercury

I need some input on some problems I am having with my clutch. Last year my clutch went out on my 66 Mercury Comet and I had a shop replace it. The new clutch then expired after 30 miles of use and the shop owner refused to do anything about it. My car then sat until just 2 days ago when I finally had enough time and money to fix it. The problem I am having is when I push in the clutch it hardly moves the fork and then the pedal sticks to the floor. This is the same problem I had with the Centerforce Clutch I just replaced. The shop who replaced it last year had to lengthen the clutch adjustment rod to just get the clutch to work. I bought a Ram Clutch to replace the Centerforce Clutch, this was the same clutch I used before the Centerforce Clutch. I did not have any problems with the Ram Clutch until it expired last year. Does anybody have any ideas, could there be something wrong with the mechanical clutch linkage or is something else wrong?

BTW, the clutch isn't slipping it just isnt engaging and the pedal isn't releasing.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2005, 04:01 PM
broncoII88's Avatar
Do the right thing...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burnt hills upstate NY
Posts: 377
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Was the throwout bearing replaced with the new clutch? If it's real bad or installed on the fork wrong, it might be binding. That shop prolly used a cheap ***** clutch which was toast after a few miles. That sucks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2005, 04:19 PM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 901
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The throwout bearing came with the Centerforce Clutch, it wasn't a bad or installed wrong. I am going to pull the fork boot this afternoon and check to make sure the thowout bearing on my new clutch didn't slip off the fork when I stabbed the tranny last night. The tranny went in pretty easy last night so I doubt this will be the case, but I am going to check it out anyway.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2005, 07:44 PM
broncoII88's Avatar
Do the right thing...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burnt hills upstate NY
Posts: 377
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Since that shop dicked around with the clutch linkage , they prolly messed something up bad which is haunting you now. The cheap clutch that shop used I'M thinking was prolly the WRONG ONE. If they used the wrong one, then something might have screwed up the linkage/fork mechanism.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2005, 10:31 AM
Eric Von Zipper's Avatar
Ole Skool Greaser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Peoples Republic Of WA
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Start from the ground up.

Take it all down. Remove the flywheel, have it surfaced. replace the shaft bushing in the middle. If it is a bearing replace with bushing.

Next buy a 180 lb 8 spring HD clutch plate, and roller release bearing with grease fitting. (dont forget to grease it 2x a year)

Check to make sure the release bearing was not install backwards and the petal return spring move the petal freely when no hooked to the clutch fork.

Also check to see is the pivot rod between the petal assy and the release bearing fork isnt adjusted all the way out. If the wrong plate or bearing was installed, a way to compansate would be to crank it out, restructing the fork travel.

Also anyways post engine size, 3 or 4 speed and floor or 3 on the tree linkage
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2005, 12:17 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indiana
Age: 60
Posts: 393
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Try this. Have some one push the clutch petal in real slow while you are under the car and watch it. I have seen the flat pieces of metal peal away from the pivot shaft when the clutch is pushed. I have seen forks that are cracked flex when the petal is pushed. Its amazing how you wont even see the crack in the metal unless the clutch is pushed in. Just watch it and see if there is anything wrong.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2005, 02:06 PM
Fast Orange's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Hightstown,NJ
Age: 57
Posts: 174
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm going to echo what 454 said-I had a Mustang 4 speed that did that as soon as I put in a performance clutch. I pulled down the linkage,welded and gusseted the pivot arm,beefed up the rods . The problem disappeared.
Check the nylon bushings on both ends of pivot arm-they add a lot of play when they're gone also.

Good Luck,George
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2005, 08:42 PM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 901
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The clutch works fine, it is not slipping a bit at all, the pedal is just stuck on the floor and it wont adjust out. I had my girlfriend press on the clutch pedal as I was under the car and everything looked good. I pulled the dust boot off the fork and checked for movement of the throw out bearing and to see if anything was not right, everything was good there. I checked the pivot points and nylon bushings on the equalizer bar and everything is good. The last thing I checked was the rod coming off of the pedal assembly and the pedal return spring. The rod looks like it is coming out at a angle and the clutch return spring on the pedal assembly wont tension when the pedal is pushed. I went over to Ford Forum.com and somebody over there said that since my car was originally set up for a long style clutch that a diaphragm clutch wont work unless I get a weaker clutch pedal return spring. Is this true or is it a bunch of BS, I cannot find anything else wrong besides the pedal return spring and clutch rod. This is the second clutch that has been put in my car with the exact same problem. This is driving me nuts and I am about ready to say forget it and let it sit another year.

BTW, the engine is a 66 289 with a cast iron 28 spline 4 speed Borg Warner T10 out of a 65 Ford Fairlane Fairlane. The flywheel was resurfaced and the clutch is a 10" Ram for SB Ford.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2005, 08:15 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indiana
Age: 60
Posts: 393
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Well if it doesnt slip and the pedal is on the floor I would suspect the fork is off the ball inside the bell housing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2005, 05:12 PM
broncoII88's Avatar
Do the right thing...
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Burnt hills upstate NY
Posts: 377
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Are you sure that the friction disc is installed facing the right way? The center of the disc sticks out more on one side (flywheels side) If a disc is installed the wrong way it can bend when the clutch is worked, probably screwing the linkage/pedal action.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2005, 07:45 PM
T-bucket23's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Engine basic condition - how to check Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 57
Posts: 5,099
Wiki Edits: 26

Thanks: 7
Thanked 103 Times in 88 Posts
Clutch

It seem to me that if you are seeing little to no movement of the fork and the pedal is stuck to the floor then you have a linkage problem. The clutch would return without a return spring. The return spring only holds the throw out off of the fingers so its not spinning all the time. I am assuming that this is a purely mechanical clutch linkage. It almost sounds like a hydrolic that needs to be bled. If teh disk was installed backwards then it would not engage at all period. If someone turned down the flywheel to much it will move it away from teh throh out bearing but that is a long shot. My guess is they monkeyed with the linkage more than they are admiting. When you said the clutch only lasted 30 miles. What was wrong with it. Was it slipping or was it that it would not disengauge. If it was slipping it was probable adjusted wrong and it will burn up real quick. If it wouldnt release my guess is the linkage broke or bent somewhere.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2005, 09:46 PM
junkyardjeff's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Dayton Ohio
Age: 53
Posts: 252
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I had to replace the clutch return spring with a heavier one when the clutch in my 66 F250 was replaced with a diaphram style clutch,I would of liked to have the other style but thats what the parts store gave when the parts was ordered. Jeff
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 05:59 AM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
The last thing I checked was the rod coming off of the pedal assembly and the pedal return spring. The rod looks like it is coming out at a angle and the clutch return spring on the pedal assembly wont tension when the pedal is pushed.
Are you absolutely sure you have the correct pedal asm./pedal to bellcrank actuating rod and/or bellcrank? It sounds as if there is incorrect actuation of the bellcrank (due to incorrect/bent/out of alignment linkage) not allowing full release of the pressure plate.

Did the clutch asm. come with installation instructions? It used to be on GM applications that used these as stock (diaphram), whereas FORD used LONG or BORG-BECK style (finger actuated plate) that once installed, proper adjustment could only be made with an air gap measurement made between the disc and plate while fully depressed. If the linkage is not allowing full release, the pedal will hang on the floor or near to it.

Also heed the previous advice about a turned down flywheel. There are shims available to bring it back into the correct relationship with the clutch asm. The other poster that recommended reinforcing and gusseting linkage parts also has a good idea, especially on a race car. Have you checked the availability of a clutch cable conversion? It will rid you of all slop.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 12:09 PM
Drive it Like u Stole it!
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Age: 40
Posts: 163
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i'm going with the clutch return spring theory, as i've had this happen to me on a car i changed the clutch from the long style to a diaphragm style. the "return" spring is more like a helper spring that has a break-over point to "help" the pedal go down after a certain point (which long-style clutch pressure plates needed!). since you went to a diaphragm-style, pedal effort is significantly reduced. in a car i went diaphragm-style to, the pedal would stay on the floor. removing the original return/helper spring and installing a VERY light spring to just get the pedal from resting on the pressure plate worked for me! in fact, this method has worked for me in 5 different cars! have had NO problems whatsoever in the last 12 years....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2005, 03:51 PM
aka Duke of URL
 
Last wiki edit: Finding vacuum leaks Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,821
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sel2real

i'm going with the clutch return spring theory, as i've had this happen to me on a car i changed the clutch from the long style to a diaphragm style. the "return" spring is more like a helper spring that has a break-over point to "help" the pedal go down after a certain point (which long-style clutch pressure plates needed!). since you went to a diaphragm-style, pedal effort is significantly reduced.


Very good point. The diaphram clutch does require a lot less of left leg pressure. I suppose that is why they have become so popular. I never liked the things because back in the sixties on a performance CHEV the diaphram plate would collapse on high RPM speed shifts. I guess they have overcome that problem. But you are correct in the spring strength helping to depress a finger style plate.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
hydraulic clutch hose problems...... bbs383ci Engine 1 06-08-2005 10:34 PM
66 Mustang charging problems. Pulling my hair out... danbeck Electrical 4 12-30-2004 08:08 AM
Flathead Clutch Problems Hot Rod Bod Transmission - Rearend 9 08-22-2004 07:39 PM
Clutch problems 95 camaro 5 speed namdlo Transmission - Rearend 1 06-22-2004 09:39 AM
Fan clutch problems... Meangreen Engine 2 07-18-2003 08:47 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.