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Old 05-09-2008, 06:05 PM
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Clutch slave cylinder question.

Setting up a hydraulic clutch on my deuce. I'm using a 61 Chevy pickup dual (brake/clutch) master cylinder and I have a couple questions about which slave cylinder would be a good choice.

The clutch (and brake for that matter) master cylinder has a 1 1/8" bore. I would also like to know when it comes to Chevy's how much stroke does a slave cylinder need to adequately operate the throw-out bearing?

Any help will be appreciated.

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Old 05-09-2008, 09:47 PM
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Well
I am using an 88+ chev pickup master with an 86/7 chev slave.
(86/87 chev bellhousing with slave mount cast in)
If I am not mistaken both cylinders are the same bore (within 1/32")
So on a 1 to 1 ratio---my stroke would be 1-1/2-1-3/4"

Cannot be positive about this, but that is what I remember about it.
I will check my 66 Elky in the morning for the throw of the fork on the mechanical linkage----and if I can get my kid to help a bit more, I will attempt to measure the throw of the fork on the 59.

If you have a MotorMart near you, (or NAPA for that matter) might thumb thru the books and look at the attributes (napa might have 'em online) and get an idea of what you may want.
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:08 AM
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Thanks. Appreciate your reply.

I can get a stock 61 Chevy slave if I have to..... they're still available (Bendix) but just not too sure about the stroke needed. Need to know that to fab the mount.
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Old 05-10-2008, 01:17 PM
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My friend Centerline---
Crawled under the 59 (after dragging the kid away from the computer games)

with the Chev Bell and slave and the 88 pickup master
I got one inch of travel at the slave pushrod.

there is probably a bit more, but I adjusted the pedal to just short of bottoming without carpet---might have another 1/4" travel hiding in adjustment-----The clutch on this car engages about 1" off the floor.

On the 66 Elky (just installed a TKO600 and have not even been for a test ride yet) The pedal is currently adjusted to about 1/2" freeplay.
I measured 1-1/4" travel at the pushrod.

Hope this will help you out!!

Might consider using a bellhousing from an 86-87 Chev pu---hyd. mount is cast into the bell. Downside-----would need a spacer ring for the tranny bearing retainer as the truck bell has a larger bore than the passenger car does.

Bryan
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:10 PM
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I thought of using at truck bellhousing but found a great deal on an aluminum "car" unit on e-bay. Had to change the front bearing retainer on the trans (it had the truck one installed) but still saved some cash.

The 1" stroke is what I needed to know. Thanks. Now all I have to do is figure out what the effects will be if I use a slave that has a smaller bore than the master.....
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Old 05-10-2008, 04:56 PM
F&J F&J is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
Setting up a hydraulic clutch on my deuce. I'm using a 61 Chevy pickup dual (brake/clutch) master cylinder and I have a couple questions about which slave cylinder would be a good choice.

The clutch (and brake for that matter) master cylinder has a 1 1/8" bore. I would also like to know when it comes to Chevy's how much stroke does a slave cylinder need to adequately operate the throw-out bearing?

Any help will be appreciated.

I have some stock chevy hyd clutch stuff here, and it's all apart if you need certain measurements or pics.

Here is what I have:
-60-62 Chev pickup dual master
-late 50s-early-60s chev truck bell with throw-out arm on pass side
-the fork for that bell
-A nos slave for the chev hyd setup
- I might have the old TOB to get a "length"

One thing to mention is that the stock dual master is "switched" when not using the stock truck pedal arrangement!... the dualmaster had the clutch "bore" on the wrong side..IE, the passenger side. The brake bore is on the driver side. You need to switch the M/C guts.

Also, a truck style "right side arm" bell can really help if you run into space problems over on the driver side! You could always resell the alum bell you have. (i love ebay for "offing" wrong parts at a tidy profit)
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Old 05-10-2008, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F&J
...........One thing to mention is that the stock dual master is "switched" when not using the stock truck pedal arrangement!... the dualmaster had the clutch "bore" on the wrong side..IE, the passenger side. The brake bore is on the driver side. You need to switch the M/C guts.
That's nice to know, but don't both sides have the same bore??

Quote:
Originally Posted by F&J
...........Also, a truck style "right side arm" bell can really help if you run into space problems over on the driver side! You could always resell the alum bell you have. (i love ebay for "offing" wrong parts at a tidy profit)
I sholdn't have any space problems on the driver's side since I'll be running sprint style headers with nothing else in the way.

I did pick up a new Bendix slave cylinder for the 61-62 off e-bay ($12 plus shipping). That solved the bore mis-match I would have had if I used a newer slave. What it doesn't come with is the little arm that slides in the slave and attaches to the clutch fork. If you have one I could use the measurements.... length and diameter. I'll probably fab one once I know the size. Thanks.

Last edited by Centerline; 05-10-2008 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:49 PM
F&J F&J is offline
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Here's pics:





Exactly 1/2 of the rod is threaded (3/8" FINE) 3/8" dia shaft. Not hardened!, I even ran a file on the rounded end that hits the slave piston. The overall length is 6-1/2". The center "nut" is actually not a nut; it was machined as part of the shaft (so you can keep the shaft from turning when adjusting).

The Fork: Forged,& basically flat. It has 2 "V'ed" pivot points that can be used, this truck used the innermost V. The measurement from the pivot ball center, out to that V, is 6-3/8".

2 jamb nuts for adjusting & locking in place; one is a nyloc turned backwards. I am not sure if originally was just 2 plain nuts.

That wedge part that touches the fork is more than likey hardened...I forgot to run a file on it

The T.O.B. total height is 1-1/4". The clutch is an 11" Diaphram type. Bearing height varies as to your pressure plate type.


Quote:
Originally Posted by F&J

One thing to mention is that the stock dual master is "switched" when not using the stock truck pedal arrangement!... the dualmaster had the clutch "bore" on the wrong side..IE, the passenger side. The brake bore is on the driver side. You need to switch the M/C guts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline

That's nice to know, but don't both sides have the same bore??

Yes, the same bore, but totally different guts in each side. Pull the boots off, snap rings out, pull guts out. Also in one bore only, look way down inside; there will be a very thick black rubber washer...switch that too.
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:44 PM
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Thanks. That is exactly what I needed. I have a stock "car" fork but will take a look to see what the measurement is from the pivot to where the slave will connect. The rod will be a piece of cake to make.

Thanks again for the info. Especially about the master cylinder.
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Old 05-11-2008, 05:50 AM
F&J F&J is offline
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You should wait on making the rod to a certain length, until you get a fork & bearing installed...as well as mounting the slave.

That "machined" nut in the center of the rod is not needed; you could just grind the very end of the threaded end to be shaped like a 1/4" square, then use a 1/4" wrench.
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Old 05-11-2008, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F&J
You should wait on making the rod to a certain length, until you get a fork & bearing installed...as well as mounting the slave.

That "machined" nut in the center of the rod is not needed; you could just grind the very end of the threaded end to be shaped like a 1/4" square, then use a 1/4" wrench.
When I make the rod I plan on making it extra long so it can be trimmed once I get the clutch set up and working properly. Also my clutch fork is large enough to allow for two or three different connection locations if need be and fabing the mount will be easy.

Do you know how much stroke the stock slave has??
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