Clutch Turbo 400: Any Tips on Running'em? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Transmission - Rearend
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Clutch Turbo 400: Any Tips on Running'em?

I have a '78 Malibu small tire car with a fresh 13-1 BBC and a clutch-turbo in it, and I was wondering if anybody remembers any stories or tips on running'em. I've heard enough reasons why I should convert to an automatic-NEVER!! I'm a clutch guy for life and that's not an option. I've already got a bunch of money tied-up in this trans: fresh rebuild w/new clutches inside,etc., new Mcleod "special" clutch/pressure plate/t/o-bearing, deep B&M pan w/fins, TCI reverse manual valve body, and Kilgore 2.75 low gear set. I set the car up according to NHRA's rule book to run 9.90, should I put a "real" motor in it someday. I did learn what that "little hole" in the bottom of the bell-housing adapter is for now. While running through the valves for the first-time fire up, I noticed a little trans fluid on the shop floor. I found it to be comming from that little hole. I've never noticed it before. After calling friends around town, the best advice I got was to just plug it. BIG MISTAKE!! Two Minutes after fire-up, I had to shut her down. Trans fluid was everywhere! The fluid had proceded down the imput shaft coated everything inside the bell housing under pressure. I blew a seal and that little hole was trying to let me know. My full-automatic friends say at least the clutch won't rust! Any other tips on this set-up? How much power can they handle? What RPM can I launch it at? (I'm afraid to find out the hard way!)

It's street legal (except for the race gas) and I can't wait to take a late night ride and set off all of their burgler/car alarms!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2004, 06:35 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 218 Times in 207 Posts
I ran a Fairbanks Clutch Turbo, in an early tube chassis, glass front end, BIG BLOCK Nova bracket car. The trans only has one flaw and that is the one inch, fine spline input shaft.

You can launch this trans wherever you are making power, but if you run big sticky tires on a "Bitey" strip. You will twist that input shaft! I used to have half a dozen or so hanging in the barn. I would paint them with a white or yellow stripe when new and these all look like barber poles!! The material is tuff but not large enuff to take the "Drop the hammer,no spin" 15" wide tire starts.

My setup used a six paddle Ram clutch and the three finger Long style press plate. Never had a leak problem tho.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2004, 07:22 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey thanks. I'll do that -paint a line on the input shaft. It's a 23 spline Chrysler input shaft. As I am not familiar with automatics I assume this shaft originally comes from a 727 Torqueflite. Would you know? It would help to know so I know where to get a replacement, or spares. I have a McLeod Long style PP with a sintered iron disk and solid marcel. It's a fresh trans with all new parts, I cut the case myself(already cracked across the bell housing from using the wrong flexplate) that some guy was throwing out. Ibuilt it 2 years ago and never ran until now, and a friend says that it sat too long and tore-up the seal upon start-up. Another says I need to index my scatter-shield before putting it back in. Also, some say to use a solid trans mount but I felt since I already have solid motor mounts, I 'd better go with just a brand new stock rubber unit. I have no mid-mount. What have you used with your previous unit? Thanks again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2004, 08:38 AM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 218 Times in 207 Posts
As far as I know the input shafts were made for the 400 trans. They were not Chrysler. Even tho they used the Mopar spline, the shaft was a custom piece. Made of what they used to call "Hi-Tuff" steel.
As for mounts. This was a somewhat flexible car, ahead of the firewall. For that reason I ran Solid engine mounts and a rubber trans mount. I hate broken housings. I see a lot of them in other peoples cars.
My trans was dialed into the rear of the engine with offset dowels. Fairbanks did a very good job on the conversion and with the Lakewood housing, very little adjustment was required.
I also tried the solid hub, but the Ram sintered paddle type disc was easier on the input shaft.

Good luck! If the input shaft problem hadn't existed, I'm sure more of the trans' would be around. I loved mine but you can't win if you don't make the next round due to breakage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 01:15 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: So Cal
Age: 68
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Cooling

There's no mention about a tranny cooler. Is it necessary to install a cooler if running a clutch turbo on the street? I know there's no converter to generate heat but I'd think just the internals working would generate some heat. Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 05:21 AM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 218 Times in 207 Posts
Actually I would run a radiator mounted cooler just to get the trans up to operating temp.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 09:22 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: So Cal
Age: 68
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cooler

Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
Actually I would run a radiator mounted cooler just to get the trans up to operating temp.
Bob, when you say "UP" to operating temp., do you mean that it WON'T get hot enough? I checked where the cooling lines would hook up to the tranny and it's plugged. I was told on another site that I would need to do something to the pump in order to make fluid circulate into the lines and cooler. I'd like to circumvent this option if at all possible. I am purchasing a tranny temp gauge and will run that just to see how hot it'll run. I was told if it'll stay around 200 degrees, it won't be a problem. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Vic
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 11:15 AM
junior stocker's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Everett, Washington
Age: 62
Posts: 817
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
The "hole" is'nt a drain; it's for setting the clutch clearance with a feeler gauge.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 01:56 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 218 Times in 207 Posts
My trans cooling lines were plugged. The pump was also plugged..

Aa a Drag race trans, with high metallic frictions nobody worried about the temp. But, as a street trans. Modern fluid is designed to operate at higher temps. A radiator trans cooler would get trans to operating temp faster and hold temp better..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2010, 03:28 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: So Cal
Age: 68
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hole?

Quote:
Originally Posted by junior stocker
The "hole" is'nt a drain; it's for setting the clutch clearance with a feeler gauge.
Not sure what hole you're talking about. Yes, I know the clutch needs to be adjusted.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2011, 06:36 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: So Cal
Age: 68
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
The material is tuff but not large enuff to take the "Drop the hammer,no spin" 15" wide tire starts.

My setup used a six paddle Ram clutch and the three finger Long style press plate. Never had a leak problem tho.
Bob,

I hope you're still on this site. What clutch assy. does the clutch turbo take? I assume it's a Mopar with 23 spline w/ 1" input shaft on 10 1/2" unit. Is the pressure plate Mopar as well? The 3 fingers on the pressure plate sticks up for the spider to engage but not familiar with which pp that is. I need to replace the clutch and assume it's a Mopar but wanted to check before investing $$$. This unit will be street/strip so which disc would you recommend - organic or organic/metal?

How does one measure .075 - .080" clutch play? I can't seem to get a feeler gauge into the blowproof bell housing to measure that.

Thanks for your time Bob, any help will be greatly appreciated. Vic
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2011, 08:00 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 218 Times in 207 Posts
I always used RAM three finger 11" (Borg&Beck style) pressure plates. Three wide fingers. In a non shifting unit like clutch/turbo. Use a solid hub disc. I tried organics and metallics but I was partial to the Three and six sintered paddle disc. Bites like you won't believe. The three paddle is easier in the 1" input shaft. After The supply of Mopar splined shafts dried up I went to 1" coarse (GM) spline shafts, made locally. Still have a couple of new discs 11" for those.

The older Lakewood shields had a hole in bottom to measure clutch release.

I have one in the shop window for display. Along with old tunnel rams and dinosaur stuff..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2011, 10:14 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: So Cal
Age: 68
Posts: 25
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com
I always used RAM three finger 11" (Borg&Beck style) pressure plates. Three wide fingers. In a non shifting unit like clutch/turbo. Use a solid hub disc. I tried organics and metallics but I was partial to the Three and six sintered paddle disc. Bites like you won't believe. The three paddle is easier in the 1" input shaft. After The supply of Mopar splined shafts dried up I went to 1" coarse (GM) spline shafts, made locally. Still have a couple of new discs 11" for those.

The older Lakewood shields had a hole in bottom to measure clutch release.

I have one in the shop window for display. Along with old tunnel rams and dinosaur stuff..
Summit Racing sells the 23 spline Mopar 3 finger clutch which I am thinking of trying. These are organic/metal disc but not solid hub. You mention a 3 & 6 sintered paddle disc - what are these, 3 or 6 individual pads on the disc?

My bellhousing has two small holes (looks like drain holes) on the bottom so no way of sticking a feeler gauge in there to check clearance. How large is the hole in your bellhsng? I may just have to drill the hole large enough to accomodate a feeler gauge.

Thanks, Vic
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:22 AM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Holly, michigan
Posts: 7,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 13
Thanked 218 Times in 207 Posts
Three paddle/pads on the disc, not full round. Sort of Like the big semi-trucks use. Sprung hub just causes weird harmonic type vibrations at certain rpms. Hole was about 1 1/4" in bottom of housing.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2011, 07:41 AM
3rdmember
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Berthoud,CO
Age: 58
Posts: 348
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
i'm thinking maybe the little hole is the vent hole...

hey, how about runnubg a soft-loc or similar clutch to maybe save the input shaft?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Transmission - Rearend posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.