[deadbodyman]

First off ,you "HAVE" to clean with W&G remover and to apply it you have to get the paper shop towels dripping wet then wipe the panel,wipe it off while the panel is still wet. one panel at a time
Think of it as the wet app. melts wax&grease the second wipes it off ,if its not wiped off the wax & grease soilidifies and remains on the panel.

secondly,it sounds to me like you have some kind of contamination coming from the compressor (a very common problem) You need some filters and also a disposable filter at the gun.Theres three must have filters you need for painting , 1st is a water seperator then a paper filterthat gets solids like rust etc and finally one to get the last little bit of moisture called a desicant filter Filters can be expensive even ridiculasly so...Id suggest going to harbor frieght and getting them since your painting all the time...you can also make them ....You'll never get good,clean paint without good,clean air and thats on top of a good ,clean surface....
OK,lets talk about heat... kero torpedos will cause problems if your using an open flame type heat use propane only...its the exhaust.,kero is bad enough but diesel exhaust is about the worst for contaminating the surfaces

[69 widetrack]

I'm sorry, but without physically seeing and feeling this problem, it is so difficult to tell. The pictures do help but still not as much as if I was there.

From the pictures I'd say fish eyes can be eliminated as a problem...thank God, they can be the most difficult to figure out.

Are all the products matched, by this I mean are you using the reducer and activator recommended for the paint? The reason I ask is, and it is hard to tell, that from your description and the pictures, it sounds like a problem called "seedy paint". This is a situation that is caused by several malfunctions such as.
1) Has the product your using ever been frozen?
2) has the product or products ever been left open for a period of time, (Catalyst especially)
3) Are the products your mixing products that the manufacturer requires for this paint to set up and flow properly?
4) The age of the product, how long have you had it or how long is the self life, all products are different and generally last a long time.

Generic hardners and reducers are exactly that, generic, always use the products recommended by the paint manufacturer.

I'll wait for your response.

[69 widetrack]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

First off ,you "HAVE" to clean with W&G remover and to apply it you have to get the paper shop towels dripping wet then wipe the panel,wipe it off while the panel is still wet. one panel at a time
Think of it as the wet app. melts wax&grease the second wipes it off ,if its not wiped off the wax & grease soilidifies and remains on the panel.

secondly,it sounds to me like you have some kind of contamination coming from the compressor (a very common problem) You need some filters and also a disposable filter at the gun.Theres three must have filters you need for painting , 1st is a water seperator then a paper filterthat gets solids like rust etc and finally one to get the last little bit of moisture called a desicant filter Filters can be expensive even ridiculasly so...Id suggest going to harbor frieght and getting them since your painting all the time...you can also make them ....You'll never get good,clean paint without good,clean air and thats on top of a good ,clean surface....
OK,lets talk about heat... kero torpedos will cause problems if your using an open flame type heat use propane only...its the exhaust.,kero is bad enough but diesel exhaust is about the worst for contaminating the surfaces

Good call on the diesel and kero or compressor contamination...the paint is definently being contaminated. Contamination can be a bear to figure out without being there and I feel that's the biggest problem.

By looking at the pictures it looks seedy and by the sounds of the entire situation, he didn't get this problem when he painted the hood seperately. So what happened differently when he got this result, what changed? That's why I asked if he's mixing and matching products. If he's using an acrylic enamel catalyst and spraying urethane product, the paint could start to gel itself into tiny particals that look like dirt or contamination. What's your take on the seedy paint scenario?

Ray

[charlie chop top]

You picked one of the hardest colors to paint. Silver metalic being the worst I think. Try to get the temp up to 78 for a few hours before you start and use a med fast reducer. Put on at least 3 wet coats, even if you will be going over it with clear.

[cutthroatkid]

I have a disposabal filter@gun&have a seperator,I am using w&g remover.I get the issue if I run kero or s
diesel or no heat .Like I said I even had this issue when I used a real booth.I'm gonna try a few more things tomorrow&Ill post the results.As far as product Im using restoration shop ss au kit.I've had this issue with nason ,4th dimension,eastwood ,summit,omni...the only thing that has shot absolutely perfect for me has been the 3 times I've used water based.Is that maybe a clue?

[69 widetrack]

All information helps...very interesting about water borne not giving you problems. It does make sense to a degree because water borne wouldn't react to a silicone or petroleum based contaminent the same way a solvent based paint would...When you cleared the water base, did you have any issues like fish eyes or anything?

[charlie chop top]

That picture looks like your getting oil into that paint somehow. Good luck, hope you fiqure it out.Charlie.

[cutthroatkid]

Well its on hold for a few days...someone tryd to break into the shop Lastnite&ended up busting the window out on my truck.I'm putting my pittbulls in there tonite &waiting outside to see if someone pops up.If so they will be leaving in a bag

[69 widetrack]

Originally Posted by cutthroatkid

Well its on hold for a few days...someone tryd to break into the shop Lastnite&ended up busting the window out on my truck.I'm putting my pittbulls in there tonite &waiting outside to see if someone pops up.If so they will be leaving in a bag

Sorry to hear about that.

Take a hockey stick too, ankles don't do well with pitbulls and hockey sticks.

[cutthroatkid]

I got something a lot better than a hockey stick.It six because we live in a real rural area but down the road there's some nasty trailers with a bunch of met head white trash p.o.s. Were now considering selling the house&moving father out.

[69 widetrack]

Well, if you've got six sticks, that's enough for a team...and that means a goalie stick...lots of lumber there.

Good luck tonight
Ray

[deadbodyman]

Seems to me a fella had a similar problem and after many posts we all figured out it was the HF gun .They pack it full of grease and it has to be completely takin apart and cleaned out very well....
I really hate to say it but ifyou really want good results, painting with cheaper materials might not be the best way to learn...I'think I'd save that paint for a warmer day and buy a better brand with the proper fast hardener and reducer...I say this because the better quality paints are actually kinda hard to to get a run with...some brands that I've used that were very nice to spray are Sherwin Williams 7000 SS,Glasurit and my favorite SPI SS because its a lot cheaper and sprays just like the top shelf paints,All that said I was under the impression you were using a SS solid color urathane paint...but if its a metallic and you want to clear it this isnt a good choice you'd be much better off using a base/clear for metallics.Your just wasting your time using a SS metalic it'll never look as good as BC/CC ,The solid colors come out looking great though,

[69 widetrack]

I'm under the impression it is a solid gray that the OP is painting, I'd stay away from metallic SS as well.

[charlie chop top]

Nah, I got a 44 magnum for people that want to steal someone elses property. Takes care of them permanently.

[novafreek6872]

Pitbulls, hockey sticks and 44 magnums... I thought we were painting here!! LOL