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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2012, 12:55 AM
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Hey there gang I waited up for the thiefs &nada but hey I got lucky the guy on cl with the window forsale ended up g
Giving me the window for free turns out my neighbor works for him.I dont really know him too good he just has a trucl like my old one so I saw him one day&told him when I go to the parts he could have em.Well anyway he even dropd it off!I offerd to pay but he said we gotta take care of our own community.So Im real thankful.Now back to the paint.No its a solid when I mentioned the metallic it was in that really bad pic from my try this past summer.I've learned my lesson I shot my buddys t bucket with a water based silver in bc/cc&that's the best I've done so far.Well I just had got laid off so I'm not buying any more paint right now but the good news is Saturday its supposed to get up to 70 so that's my day.So Ill keep you guys posted.
I have a few more ??? OK MY Grandfather was a painter Ill post a few. Pix in a min...anyways Ive been using a lot of his stuff what ever the family didn't steal or sell that is.When he died 7 years ago there easy cases upon cases of royal purple,atf+4 stabil etc as he bought in bulk well there was half a case of 3m w&g remover in a aerosol can&that's what Ive been using is this the right stuff?Also should I use no soap when I wash before primer&do I wash or just wipe after primer?Also can I primer it today if I'm not gonna sand it out&shoot it till sat?Lastly so 100@compressor &30-35@gun correct?&should I not shoot when the comp cycles?It kicks on@100&will keep up with me spraying.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2012, 01:10 AM
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&here is pop!On his bsa 650 lightning...actually might have found this bike got a guy trying to get me pics if so I plan to sell my project bike to buy it.Anyways Wish I could do half of what he could.I kick myself in the behind everyday for not standing around handing him wrenches more.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2012, 03:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Hey there gang I waited up for the thiefs &nada but hey I got lucky the guy on cl with the window forsale ended up g
Giving me the window for free turns out my neighbor works for him.I dont really know him too good he just has a trucl like my old one so I saw him one day&told him when I go to the parts he could have em.Well anyway he even dropd it off!I offerd to pay but he said we gotta take care of our own community.So Im real thankful.Now back to the paint.No its a solid when I mentioned the metallic it was in that really bad pic from my try this past summer.I've learned my lesson I shot my buddys t bucket with a water based silver in bc/cc&that's the best I've done so far.Well I just had got laid off so I'm not buying any more paint right now but the good news is Saturday its supposed to get up to 70 so that's my day.So Ill keep you guys posted.
I have a few more ??? OK MY Grandfather was a painter Ill post a few. Pix in a min...anyways Ive been using a lot of his stuff what ever the family didn't steal or sell that is.When he died 7 years ago there easy cases upon cases of royal purple,atf+4 stabil etc as he bought in bulk well there was half a case of 3m w&g remover in a aerosol can&that's what Ive been using is this the right stuff?Also should I use no soap when I wash before primer&do I wash or just wipe after primer?Also can I primer it today if I'm not gonna sand it out&shoot it till sat?Lastly so 100@compressor &30-35@gun correct?&should I not shoot when the comp cycles?It kicks on@100&will keep up with me spraying.
Congratulation on getting the glass, for free too, way to go...

Now the bounty left by your grandfather, do you know how long he had it before you started using it? Has it ever been frozen or stored in a place where temperature gets extreme, both hot and cold? Do you get your problems when you use this product and not when you don't? The reason I ask is because paint manufacturers, in most cases, have a 2 year shelf life on their products, that's not to say that they won't work after 2 years, it's just that it's a best before date and 7 years since your grandfather past away is way past that best before date... (and how long before your grandfather passed away was it purchased)... it could have an effect on the quality of the product. I've had paint in my mixing room as old as 7 years, but it's been stored properly, sealed properly and it worked fine. I've also seen paint and other related products go "seedy" much sooner and seedy is what your problem did look like. That's why I asked if there was any correlation between you using your grandfather's product and the problems your having? Try using fresher products and see if there is a difference.

Wax and grease remover is exactly that, it removes wax and grease. I prefer a final wash, or spirit wipe, the product goes by many names, it designed to take light surface dust and minor contaminants (like finger prints etc.) off your vehicle prior to painting. It takes less time to dry and doesn't leave any film on your painting surface, as wax and grease remover can leave a film on your surface, especially if it's the age that your grandfather left you.

If you use soap and water to wash a car down before you primer, use a mild dish soap and wash it off with plenty of water and dry the surface thoroughly before applying and new product over top. Again, it must be washed/rinsed thoroughly with water after.

Depending on the temperature that you are priming at and the suggested cure time of the manufacturer it is possible to prime today, providing that the temperatures allow for proper cure by the time you paint. If the primer is not cured through completely, you are trapping solvents, causing the paint to sink, leaving sand scratches down and gloss die off, down the road and worse case, paint peeling off as the solvents try to escape...so make sure that the primer is not just dry, it needs to be cured.

If you can maintain proper air pressure at the regulator when the compressor cycles, you can continue painting, just make sure that your compressor doesn't get to warm causing condensation coming from the compressor, into your paint air supply hose and onto your paint. The moisture in the compressor has oil and other contaminants within it...it could in effect cause the reaction that you are experiencing now.

Cool pic's of your grandfather, I'm sure he was a great guy, most car guys are.

I hope this information helps and good luck.

Ray
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2012, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Hey there gang I waited up for the thiefs &nada but hey I got lucky the guy on cl with the window forsale ended up g
Giving me the window for free turns out my neighbor works for him.I dont really know him too good he just has a trucl like my old one so I saw him one day&told him when I go to the parts he could have em.Well anyway he even dropd it off!I offerd to pay but he said we gotta take care of our own community.So Im real thankful.Now back to the paint.No its a solid when I mentioned the metallic it was in that really bad pic from my try this past summer.I've learned my lesson I shot my buddys t bucket with a water based silver in bc/cc&that's the best I've done so far.Well I just had got laid off so I'm not buying any more paint right now but the good news is Saturday its supposed to get up to 70 so that's my day.So Ill keep you guys posted.
I have a few more ??? OK MY Grandfather was a painter Ill post a few. Pix in a min...anyways Ive been using a lot of his stuff what ever the family didn't steal or sell that is.When he died 7 years ago there easy cases upon cases of royal purple,atf+4 stabil etc as he bought in bulk well there was half a case of 3m w&g remover in a aerosol can&that's what Ive been using is this the right stuff?Also should I use no soap when I wash before primer&do I wash or just wipe after primer?Also can I primer it today if I'm not gonna sand it out&shoot it till sat?Lastly so 100@compressor &30-35@gun correct?&should I not shoot when the comp cycles?It kicks on@100&will keep up with me spraying.
Congratulation on getting the glass, for free too, way to go...

Now the bounty left by your grandfather, do you know how long he had it before you started using it? Has it ever been frozen or stored in a place where temperature gets extreme, both hot and cold? Do you get your problems when you use this product and not when you don't? The reason I ask is because paint manufacturers, in most cases, have a 2 year shelf life on their products, that's not to say that they won't work after 2 years, it's just that it's a best before date and 7 years since your grandfather past away is way past that best before date... (and how long before your grandfather passed away was it purchased)... it could have an effect on the quality of the product. I've had paint in my mixing room as old as 7 years, but it's been stored properly, sealed properly and it worked fine. I've also seen paint and other related products go "seedy" much sooner and seedy is what your problem did look like. That's why I asked if there was any correlation between you using your grandfather's product and the problems your having? Try using fresher products and see if there is a difference.

Wax and grease remover is exactly that, it removes wax and grease. I prefer a final wash, or spirit wipe, the product goes by many names, it designed to take light surface dust and minor contaminants (like finger prints etc.) off your vehicle prior to painting. It takes less time to dry and doesn't leave any film on your painting surface, as wax and grease remover can leave a film on your surface, especially if it's the age that your grandfather left you.

If you use soap and water to wash a car down before you primer, use a mild dish soap and wash it off with plenty of water and dry the surface thoroughly before applying and new product over top. Again, it must be washed/rinsed thoroughly with water after and dried.

Depending on the temperature that you are priming at and the suggested cure time of the manufacturer it is possible to prime today, providing that the temperatures allow for proper cure by the time you paint. If the primer is not cured through completely, you are trapping solvents, causing the paint to sink, leaving sand scratches and gloss die off, down the road and worse case, paint peeling off as the solvents try to escape...so make sure that the primer is not just dry, it needs to be cured.

If you can maintain proper air pressure at the regulator when the compressor cycles, you can continue painting, just make sure that your compressor doesn't get to warm causing condensation coming from the compressor, into your paint air supply hose and onto your paint. The moisture in the compressor has oil and other contaminants within it...it could in effect cause the reaction that you are experiencing now.

Cool pic's of your grandfather, I'm sure he was a great guy, most car guys are.

I hope this information helps and good luck.

Ray
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2012, 04:04 AM
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Sorry for the double post, I pushed the wrong button on my computer and I just added the word dried to your soap and water question.

Ray
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 02:10 PM
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Well I went ahead&bought new w&g&tore both down cleaned put back up&even borrowed my buddy sata..got the sata results for the most part but then moved in a bit slower&angled my gun some&that seems to have took care of a good deal of the problem.But..Im using med harder&its 70 out&only around 65 in the shop&taking along time to cure.Should I either paint tomorrow while 70-74 out&heat the shop or should I paint later this week when in the 50s with a fast activator?
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Old 12-01-2012, 02:11 PM
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&btw..why does primer never give me a issues&it cured in a matter of minutes
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 03:03 PM
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Primer is a heavier bodied bodied product than paint. It goes on thicker and not as prone to see or react to problems like contamination. Primer sets up faster than paint as well, it's not cured it's just set up' even if your using an epoxy and it feels dry, it's still curing.

If it's going to 70-74 tomorrow, I'd paint tomorrow and if you have the correct medium activator, I would use the medium.

Ray
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 09:15 PM
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Ok that makes sense.Well I've been watching videos&it seems everybody moves the gun real fast but when I move fast it looks worse is there something I'm missing?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2012, 09:23 PM
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It could be the gun, the type of tip your using, the way your gun is set up...Some painters like to lean out the gun and paint slow, less runs, but sometimes less gloss.. I paint fairly fast with about 75% overlap...It depends on what works for you.

You could try adjusting the gun to get more material out, then you'll need to move faster.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:44 AM
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I'd also like to add, and I am a noob at this myself... I cant stress enough how important it is to be able to SEE the paint hitting the panel and from there you can adjust speed...i try to get a nice wet look, just short of running and it can be hard to do in cooler weather.

Andy
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 11:15 AM
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I'd also like to add, and I am a noob at this myself... I cant stress enough how important it is to be able to SEE the paint hitting the panel and from there you can adjust speed...i try to get a nice wet look, just short of running and it can be hard to do in cooler weather.

Andy
Your so right Andy, in cooler weather your paint stays open longer and flows for a longer period of time...so when you paint in cooler conditions, you don't always get what you see. That's why it's important to have the right product for the conditions and paint.

Ray
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 04:09 PM
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Well here are the results..it most defiantly could of used a different harder as its staying wet so long I can't tell what the results will be without waiting a long time..I shot 1 coat earlier &two hours later it was still very tacky.@first it looked like orange peel but as it cures its looking better.I optd to do the 2nd coat tomorrow as I got a few runs&I need to wet sand.I now believe my problem is incorrectly reducing &not proper prep work.I took the whole morning cleaning&I think I finally understand what my pop meant when he said painting is easy its all the other bs ya gotta do first thatll make the paint look good or not...that being said I have a 24x36 shop but I need a place specifically for painting so Ill be adding another 16 ft to the back because I fealt really camped.Anyways tomorrow Ill wet sand&shoot the next coat..anything I'm saying sounds like a bad idea feel free to say so..Ill take all the advice I can get .I've got a big chalk board down here with all of the good tips I get.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:13 PM
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Btw its 73 which is nuts for Dec in Missouri anyhow the SS I accidently got on my arm 2hours ago is still sticky.Could it be I didn't use the correct amount of activator?I thought I did but?
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:25 PM
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Single Stage takes a long time to set up...I did a frame in SS about a week ago and got some black paint on my fingers...it took a day for it not to be sticky...not to worry, typical Single Stage, especially SS urethane...takes for ever to cure.

Ray
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