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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:14 PM
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Hey john not arguing what your saying just saying it ticks me off that others can get it to flow right overtime&I'm just wasting cash on paint it seems.

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:31 PM
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Am I suppose to have the cap on the cup open?
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Hey john not arguing what your saying just saying it ticks me off that others can get it to flow right overtime&I'm just wasting cash on paint it seems.
I understand totally and don't doubt that you may be successful in getting to where you want to be. I do wonder about one other thing though. I have a few blisters in the body detail lines toward the tops of my doors on my car that are going to have to be repaired this winter. I wonder whether they are the result of solvent pop due to painting in too cool of conditions or moisture in lines or something else. Could it be that the activator has failed to do it's job and allowed the solvents to be trapped? Possible I think. The point I am making is modern refinishing materials are chemically engineered to work under very specific conditions. I am not sure they will allow us to go outside the parameters they are designed for without paying the consequences. Unfortunately I paint a car every couple of years and am not qualified to offer the guidance that the professionals on here can. The other side of the coin is they use heated paint booths with a controlled invironment and don't have to work under compromised conditions like we hobbiests do.

Good luck and keep us posted,
John L
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:06 PM
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Well Im 100% sure its not my painting its just the atomizing issue..it's sure not coming out as a mist.I've been reading&some say the inline air filter can be very restrictive &cause this problem so Ill remove&try again..I'm wondering if this is the issue as I have a few of the hf guns even the so called pro kit&I have the issue with every gun &I always use these filters.So..now I guess I need to wet sand the whole deal&try to get the paint to lay flat because I did notice its landing too thick like specs
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:49 PM
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Well, I will be the lucky one. I will get to learn from your hard work. You can be sure I will be watching for your posts.

John L
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:20 PM
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Anybody got any tips on reducing?The tech sheet says reducer can be used but dosnt say how much so I'm just eye calling it as this paint is thick
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:16 AM
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I still say not enough psi. You sure that gun doesnt say 45psi max right on the handle? HF guns like wide open settings and 40-50 psi trigger pulled, hold somewhere around 10" from the surface.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:20 AM
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Your so right John...sometimes when trying to help someone paint with inferior equipment it's like coaching a Hockey team with croquet mallets instead of hockey sticks...equipment matters and that coupled with paint designed for use on implements and not a paint designed for achieving an automotive finish, it's like Forrest Gump said about a box of chocolates..."you never know what your going to get".

Cutthroat, if your getting a Devilbus for Christmas, maybe ask for a gift card from your local automotive paint supplier as well and get the product designed for the job. I admire your tenacity in trying to make it work and I appreciate the fact that your standards don't allow for a finish like your getting, but sometimes you need to bite the bullet and invest in equipment and material that make it possible.

How does the vehicle look this morning? If you need to sand and repaint, wait until after Christmas when you have your new gun in your hand...purchase an Automotive paint. If you want a metallic paint, you need to know that single stage urethane metallic's don't have the shine that acrylic enamel or base clear paints have, it's just the nature of the beast.

If you've shot base clear with this equipment and not had a problem, maybe that's the way to go...the more information you give , the more it sounds like the material your using is not compatible with the equipment.

Ray
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:26 AM
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Now the paint can be reduced? If the manufacturer say the paint can be reduced try reducing the 10 to 15%. Use only the correct reducer for the job and try a test panel before using it on a vehicle. Please remember, we are trying to give helpful information but can only give correct information with the information we get.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Now the paint can be reduced? If the manufacturer say the paint can be reduced try reducing the 10 to 15%. Use only the correct reducer for the job and try a test panel before using it on a vehicle. Please remember, we are trying to give helpful information but can only give correct information with the information we get.
Do they still make viscosity cups? If so, would that be a good thing for a novice to use for reduction?

John L
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:50 AM
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They do still make them and a good suggestion, when using automotive paints, viscosity cups are not used as often today as they used to be used. Manufacturer's are building the required viscosity into the material and a standard reduction and catalyzation usually give the required viscosity. Industrial paints, if the manufacturer recommends reduction, I would think some paints in the same line are thicker than others and are required to be reduced for maximum flow.

Just like golf, so much to remember.
Ray
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:41 PM
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Well I give up...I sanded the whole thing back down,primered then thought I had 3 diffrent guns dialed in&cranked the air up did everything that was suggested&got the same results the whole vehicle has orange peel&if I try to wet sand it I hit primer its that severe
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:57 PM
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I understand your frustration...Let it set up until you get your new equipment at Christmas...Then buy some paint designed for automotive refinishing...have your vehicle sanded and ready to go, I feel it's the equipment (Paint guns) and material (Industrial paint) that are giving you the problems. The products and gun are not made to give you the finish you want.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:03 PM
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I Agree with Ray. Sometimes when things just arent working out, its best to just stop for a while and regroup. When I was painting my Nova, I had two bad spray sessions on a large part of the car, I was getting really frustrated and using alot of paint! I just stopped and put it down for three months, when I finally got back on it, I sprayed just fine and had the whole car buffed out and put back together in 7 days.

Andy
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2012, 06:40 PM
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Holy crapola!Ok I finally got it!I kept adjusting it&ended up painting my dang shop cabinets because I ran out of test paneps&the last time I tryd it layd on nice&smooth!I only have one side painted&the rest in primer so Ill wet sand the painted&shoot.Im afraid to take it apart&clean since I finally got it right so I ran a whole quart of reducer through it&hopefully it will be ok tomorrow...its a dd not none of my projects so as long as it looks close to how it should Ill be happy.
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