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Old 11-20-2012, 12:46 AM
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cold weather painting&needing help

Any tips for painting when its cold?I'm gonna re shoot my truck my building is 24x36 its a pole building has been seemed with osb&the inside has 1&1/2" thick foam board Ill be in the first half the roof isn't that high in the first half...the building is like a shed roof style what some may call a lean too or pitched.Ill be running my big torpedo heater on the other end facing away from where Ill be.Its well ventilated the temp outside will be around 50,
I know I need to have the metal on the truck warm any other things I should know?Also I just painted this truck this summer with a smaller compressor but got a lot of spots that looked like real shiny orange peel I had a guy who use to paint back in the 80s look@ it&he said I went on too thick since then I've practiced so hopefully Ill get this right.Ill shoot some test panels first.But what works better for you going fast or going slow?when I go fast I get crap results but when I go slow I get that nice smooth wet look but runs its a ss dark grey non metallic also if I want can I shoot clear over this?thanks
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:42 AM
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First off what you want to use is a fast reducer for that temp, I don't know what kind of paint you are using but if you get the product info sheet for the brand your using with the s/s it should tell you in there what your dry time to clear will be. As far as getting the paint to flow the way you want, there are a lot of variables with your air pressure settings and fluid control. The big part of that too comes with gun distance and speed. I don't know what kind of lighting you have in there but get as much as you can so you can see exactly how the paint is laying down on the truck as your spraying it. When I spray in the colder weather I usually go a little more on the flash times because it wont dry as fast in the cold and that's where you will get a lot of runs, because your loading up coat after coat that has not properly flashed of yet. Pay close attention to how the paint is laying down on the work. If you can see exactly what is happening as the paint is coming out of the gun, then you can adjust your distance and speed accordingly. My best advice would be is get a large panel like an old hood or something, stand it up and practice with your distance and speed on something like that.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:58 AM
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I ordered the paint when it waa warm&got medium I asked for fast but they didn't offer it with there kit.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:19 AM
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Make sure the truck is up to the temp of the paint booth. Extend your recoat times to compensate for the medium reducer and you should be fine. When using that torpedo heater make sure the intake is in fresh outside air. Do not run it when you are actually laying down product.

Vince
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:56 AM
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I agree with "Mr.4speed" on using a faster reducer, and trying it on an upright test panel, this will allow you to see how far you can push the product without it running and give you an opportunity to play with , volume, air pressure and distance. Allow plenty of flash time and check your paint for flash by touching the test panel. Only recoat when the paint on the test panel is tacky and starting to set up. I would see if I can get a fast reducer, if you can you could tailor make a reducer that fits the temperature by mixing some of each together until you get the right formula. Painting in cool weather is a challenge, even for experienced painters and the word of the day here is caution. Good Post Mr.4speed.

I also agree with 302Z28, and if you don't already have one, put a filter between the heater and the outside air to minimize the dust getting in your wet paint.

Ray
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:07 AM
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light

I used to hold a trouble light in one hand and position it so I could see how the paint was going on, and I those days I didn't wear a helmet, drank water from a hose, drove with no seat belts in the truck. etc.
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Old 11-20-2012, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
I used to hold a trouble light in one hand and position it so I could see how the paint was going on, and I those days I didn't wear a helmet, drank water from a hose, drove with no seat belts in the truck. etc.
And Camel cigarettes where recommended by 8 out of 10 doctors that smoked. Drinking and driving was merely frowned upon. LOL
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:59 PM
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Sorry I didn't post back been busy,tomorrow I have to do some sanding&shoot my primer Sunday its suppose to get close to 60 so Ill shoot then.I've found when I go slow I get it nice&glassy just gotta get to where I get no runs.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:13 AM
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some of the cheaper paints require a tack coat before you start actually painting,its just a mist coat of paint that really helps not getting runs...
as far as the waiting for the next coat there are no set times just wait fifteen min and go in and touch the paper where a good amount of paint was applied when its tacky and dont smear around ,its ready for another coat. Ive waited an hour hour + at times waiting for it to be just right for the next coat ...and when its really hot I can hardly sit before it ready....fast reducer is what you need,even at 60 degrees...It doesnt have to be from the company that made the paint ,if its urathane paint any urathane reducer will work same goes with enamels and acrilic enamels...although when it comes to the urathane paints the better quality reducers work better than the cheap stuff.and the hardners come in fast ,med and slow also...
It might be better to wait...
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:27 AM
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Dead...Another good post, tack coats in cooler and less than optimum conditions, with only a medium reducer, I would would almost be a "must requirement" no matter what he paid for the paint.

What type of paint & Brand is it that your putting on the vehicle, Base Clear, Acrylic Urethane, Acrylic Enamel, Poly Urethane ETC?

Urethane's may, depending on brand, quality, reducer, hardner and especially temperature, require longer flash times and stay tacky longer than other paints.

If you can give us this information we may be able to give you better advice. Remember this, paint is paint, they all work to a degree, but they all have different qualities and act different in different situations. The more information the better the advice.

Post back soon, I'll be checking to try and lend a hand before Sunday.

Ray
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:10 PM
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Thanks..sorry back on so late.I was doing all my body work today.The paint is restoration shop as au machinery grey The kit only comes with a slow sell hardner.I actually asked for fast but they didn't have it.I called around today&the local robber was closed but orileys has medium for 65+ degrees.Its supposed to get close to 60 tomorrow.Tonite it got down in the 30s&with my torpedo heater I got it to mid 70s I sprayed a hood I took off my drag project when I put my cool hood onlaid the hood standing up like you guys said&it had great coverage in a single coat I did to it in sections to see what I would get for runs the results are...I've figured out in my previous paint jobs I was going too fast so it seems like slower is better but too slow = runs so I did get a few just trying to find my happy medium.The runs went that bad.I did have to reduce.The paint mixes@4:1 I only added 1/2 part reducer &seemed to flow well.gonna try with a bigger tip tomorrow&the medium reducer when I go get it.I'm using a 60 gallon. pump air compressor with the purple hvlp gun..I've got about 10 of em lol I think my p.i.c. is getting me the devilbliss for xmas as the ups guy delivered a package from eastwood the other day&they hid it..anyways getting off subject I have a inline oil/water seperator &the little disposal air filter@gun after my regulator.I'm running 100@compressor &30@gun trigger pulled.
Though the paint flowed well it was very tacky&took way top long to dry.I think it has a lot to do with the temp&moisture in the air.Tomorrow before I shoot I'm gonna run the heater for around 3 hours before I shoot
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Old 11-25-2012, 01:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
some of the cheaper paints require a tack coat before you start actually painting,its just a mist coat of paint that really helps not getting runs...
as far as the waiting for the next coat there are no set times just wait fifteen min and go in and touch the paper where a good amount of paint was applied when its tacky and dont smear around ,its ready for another coat. Ive waited an hour hour + at times waiting for it to be just right for the next coat ...and when its really hot I can hardly sit before it ready....fast reducer is what you need,even at 60 degrees...It doesnt have to be from the company that made the paint ,if its urathane paint any urathane reducer will work same goes with enamels and acrilic enamels...although when it comes to the urathane paints the better quality reducers work better than the cheap stuff.and the hardners come in fast ,med and slow also...
It might be better to wait...
Trying to get it done as I may sell it after taxes to fund a dually cummins&I might wait till Monday to get the fast hardner if you think the med wont work if you say no then its no because everything you've told me in the past I have found was all true.As far as the mist coat..so pretty much just step back&do a light mist?I'm guessing a little lighter then if I'm trying to get rid of tiger striping on a panel is that right?Should I wait till its good&tacky till I lay my first coat afterwards?
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cutthroatkid View Post
Trying to get it done as I may sell it after taxes to fund a dually cummins&I might wait till Monday to get the fast hardner if you think the med wont work if you say no then its no because everything you've told me in the past I have found was all true.As far as the mist coat..so pretty much just step back&do a light mist?I'm guessing a little lighter then if I'm trying to get rid of tiger striping on a panel is that right?Should I wait till its good&tacky till I lay my first coat afterwards?
First, I would not recommend using a hardner from one manufacturer and the paint from another. It might work...it might not, you don't know what chemicals are in one that may not be in the other, if you can't get a faster catalyst, stay with what you have.

Yes you are right, apply the mist coat as if you where trying to even out metallic's and let it get tacky before applying a heavier gloss coat.

Ray
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:51 PM
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WELL??? HOW DID IT GO???
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:29 PM
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hey bud, u shooting a car with no heat now ? i shot a nova at 27 outside. it came out mint. i used centari ae fast dry 793 and fast dry reducer 3812 and 8034 both ae reducer. ya gotta be careful runs u know. i also used lac primer and 3661 thiner.good luck take your time. gary
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