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-   -   Color Sand Nason Acrylic Enamel? (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/color-sand-nason-acrylic-enamel-220410.html)

CADI70 06-11-2012 03:30 PM

Color Sand Nason Acrylic Enamel?
 
I'm wondering if anyone has experience successfully color sanding Nason acrylic enamel? I've done it once before and ended up with way too many scratches and a dull finish. Just finished a paint job and the cars been sitting a few days. It's taken a long time and a few mistakes to get the paint right so I'm a little afraid of screwing it up. It's not bad, the trunk lid has a couple of bugs (gnat sized) and a little bit of orange peel in it. I'm considering just buffing, trunk only, with some compound next weekend. The last time I sanded I started at 1000 and went up to 1500 grit. Just ended up looking worse then when I started. Any thoughts?

swvalcon 06-11-2012 03:58 PM

never buff enamel before it is completely cured. 30 day or more the longer the better. You can color sand and buff a soild color but not a metalic. your best bet would be to scuff with a scuff pad remask and clear coat then buff that.

deadbodyman 06-11-2012 06:53 PM

did you use a hardener? If so you can buff sooner.

John long 06-11-2012 07:18 PM

I don't mean to be critical but I am going to add my 2 cents worth here. If you are like most of us who do this as a hobby and do not have a professional grade paint booth, do not cut expenses to the point you are not using a catalyzed paint. It is almost impossible to paint a car dust and bug free in a garage. It is imperative that you be able to color sand and buff the paint when you are done and that requires a catalyzed 2 part system that will be hard enough to buff. That being said, I have had some really bad paint jobs come out of my gun that after being color sanded and buffed were truly beautiful and something I could be really proud of.

John L.

deadbodyman 06-12-2012 05:48 AM

Even with a booth you can get a terrible paint job..sanding and buffing usually save the day.Buffing takes patience but its not hard to learn, try skipping the 1000 and start with 1200 or even skip that and use 1500..then try buffing it, it should be easier to gloss up and less trying on your patience.

CADI70 06-12-2012 08:28 AM

I may just do 1500 to be safe. I'm wondering if my sanding technique is ok. For color sanding I sand in one direction only. Make sense? Also to anwser the questions, yes I used hardner. I painted this under a carport with tarps covering it closed and a box fan plugged into the end of it. So yeah, kind off a paint both. :)

John long 06-12-2012 09:41 AM

If you used hardener, you are on a roll Cad170. You can start with the 1500 and sand out the bugs and nibs. What it won't do is level the paint (get rid of the orange peal). I used a new gun on the hood of my '36 and had so much orange peal I started with 800 and a 1 inch square aluminum block to level it. I then went to 1200 and finally 2000. What ever you decide to do the key is when you get to the 1500 or 2000, there can not be any sand marks left from the courser papers. I will frequently take a quick pass over the panel with the buffer and look for sand scratches. If you find any go back to the finest paper until all other sand scratches are gone. You will not sand through unless you go crazy. The buffing is where caution must be used. Color sanding and buffing is a time consuming process but is the crown jewel of the paint job no matter how bad it looked coming out of the gun. Keep us posted and good luck

John L

deadbodyman 06-12-2012 04:09 PM

Try the Maguyers fine cut compound with the swirl mark remover and maybe the machine glaze.I tried it and loved it for when I sand with 1500 ...they have a coarser compound if you use 1200 or coarser...but like john said its tuff sanding peel out with it, it'll take a lot longer but on the brite side you'll buff faster and I'd rather sand than buff,I hate buffing it kills me...I sanded with 1000 once and it was so much work I never did it again even 1200 is a bit too ruff for me I just want to knock down the trash but I always go edge to edge knocking down what peel there is, not just a little nibbing, it just looks much better,more uniform...Now when I get a flow indicator I'll break out some 1000 and plane it down flat...
The problem with acrilic enamel is ,its a lot of work to sand and buff just to have it fade in a couple years...Your way better off using a urathane it sprays just as well and holds up a long time the price is about the same.
I was at the store today and someone bought a gallon of Nason ful-thane,viper red 250.00 a gallon but black is about 125.00 for the urathane


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