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Old 03-15-2005, 05:25 AM
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Color Sanding

We call it "color sanding" but actually it's Clear sanding.
I always hand sand the clear with 2000 grit and a block with lots
of water, but it sure is slow. A friend of mine said he likes a sander called
a "Waterbug", What do the rest of you guys use? Do you have an air sander
that works as good as hand blocking? I'm only talking about final sanding
before buffing the clear. There's got to be a faster way.

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Old 03-15-2005, 05:41 AM
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I usually start with 1000 or 1500 then step it down from there. I always do the initial cut by hand with a 3/16" piece of rubber as a backing pad/block. Sometimes I use a DA for the 2000 and 3000 grit work before buffing. Check out 3M for the part numbers. The abrasives are expensive though-$50 per box. Keep a DA dedicated for doing this work and keep it clean, or plan on thoroughly cleaning your regular DA before using it on clear- I've seen paintjobs ruined when a small particle of whatever has fallen off a DA just to be ground around in the finish
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Old 03-15-2005, 07:55 AM
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Like BaddBob said, 2000 - 3000 should be your final sanding.If your taking out orange peel or dirt nibs you should start with something with more bite. 1000 -1500
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:18 AM
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I assume everyone is talking about using water.
I have a friend at a bodyshop that says the environmental people
won't let him watersand without containing the water,
He pretty much does it anyway but is there a "dry" way to do it?
I notice a lot more scratches when I sand anything dry.
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:49 AM
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I recently started dry sanding before buffing..........

I got an electric DA (I don‘t have a huge compressor) with a 3M stick-it pad.......I use 3m stick it sanding disks in 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000

I only start with 800 when the peel comes out really bad........but mostly start with 1000 and work my way up....using the DA dry is quick and easer on the “elbow grease” but the best advantage is that you can see exactly what your knocking out as your cutting.......as soon as all the shiny spots are gone (no more orange peel) you move on to the finer grits.......

A few draw-backs..

1.. You will be making lots of fine dust.......so use a good respirator
2.. You will have to wait longer before cutting and buffing........like at least 3 days in the sun worth.....the clear coat has to be well cured before cutting it dry.........if when you start DA’ing it, you get little clumps on your paper, then it’s too fresh.........just stop right there, and wait another day

Last edited by myfamiliacc; 03-15-2005 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-15-2005, 10:12 AM
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That sounds pretty cool! I'm going to have to try that.
Thanks a bunch.
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Old 03-15-2005, 01:55 PM
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I almost forgot one thing........

WATCH OUT WITH THEM CORNERS AND EDGES!!

Dry cutting with a DA is alot quicker, but it would also burn through edges and corners easer.......so carefull on them, better to do those by hand
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Old 03-15-2005, 04:07 PM
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We dry sand everything here up to 3000! Works like a charm.
Brian
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Old 03-15-2005, 05:19 PM
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Back when I painted full time, about a year ago, I dry sanded with 1200 then 1500 then went to 3000 grit wet.
Buffing over 3000 is the only way to go IMO, it makes life much easier!!!
You dont need to wait any longer to dry then to wet. Most clears you can start sanding 12hrs later
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Old 03-15-2005, 08:21 PM
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3M has pad/paper called an "interface" pad which is basically a piece of foam with male & female velcro for hooking up to the DA and special paper
hookit2 which is called the Hook-It-II system.
The pad allows the DA to "float" and not dig or circle sand like your regular DA pad does. It's worth the $$$ for the set-up and the paper lasts quite a bit longer than the regular dry paper. The 3000 Tranzac pad fit's this as well and is the **** for final sand before buffing.

Oh, Use the Tranzac WET.
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