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Color sanding Help
I have been doing alot of color sanding latley. And I have always done it by hand and finished with a soft D/A hookit pad with 2000 or 3000. My question is where do the rod shops etc get the water mist hose's that use the little suction cups. It is a small hose with nozzels every 8 inches or so and next to each nozzel is a suction cup. You can simply apply it say across the top of a quarter panel and it mists down the quater while your color sanding, wet sanding. Any ideas or helpful suggestions. I am looking for something I can buy or use as an aid in my color sanding to keep the surface flushed with, and give me both hands free instead of using one to hold the garden hose or
spray bottle all the time. Thanks for any help or advise
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Check at any store that sells body shop supplies.
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Besides the sponge - I use one of those big dogbone shaped biggies - noted by Vince, I use a plastic water bottle and/or a spray bottle.
As far as a water hose mister - only if you like standing in a puddle for hours as it is an uncontrolled flow plus you also will get very wet. |
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Personally if I was to wet sand in the traditional sense, I prefer the dunk in the bucket method best, mainly because I add a touch of soap to the water to make it a bit slippery'r. This aids in color sanding and helps keep your paper from loading up, you can't get that with a hose. Also I wouldn't want to stand in a big puddle of water either. Secondly I don't do near as much wet sanding by hand anymore. With the 3M trizact film or Mirka Abranet sponge sanders you can do it with a DA and a squirt bottle in half the time and also there's a lot less buffing when your done. Not to mention it levels off the F.L.A. much better than hand sanding. IMHO!
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re: Color sanding Help
The theory I adhere to is that I like to check my work & do as little wetsanding as possible. Let's face it, nobody likes wetsanding & buffing so start with a good quality paint job. It will save you many hours of work. By using a bucket with water (a little soap added if you like), I can sand a bit then dry it with a cloth. This way I can see if I have removed the orange peel & not go too far. Once it's dry, if there are still tiny shiny spots, there is still a bit of orange peel left. If you use running water there is no way to see when you are flat (no tiny shiny spots) therefore you run the risk of a burn through or wasting time sanding when you should be enjoying it instead.
Another thing we use at our shop is a small hand sized rubber pad. We put the sandpaper onto it so we don't used our hand directly on the body. Although we don't use alot of pressure it still spreads the pressure over a bigger area so you get it smoother. If you use your hand directly on the body you will create tiny finger sized waves in the clearcoat. By using a small rubber pad, you are guaranteed to get a mirror like finish. Enjoy |
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I took a old speaker magnet and epoxy glued a clamp to it.
Then covered it with duct tape. I have 2 of them and you can position them any way you want. I got some 1/4" clear tubeing from Home Depot with a fitting that hooks to a std garden hose. A squeegee wipes it off fast to see what you're doing, but on darker colors I position it in the sun where I can actually see the shiney spots through the water as I sand.
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