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Old 09-24-2005, 09:10 AM
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Color Sanding Pearl

I was wondering what would happen if I did have to color sand single stage pearl (dark cherry)? Would it just loose that translucent look and be more of a solid, or would it really ugly up the color? I have not sprayed this project yet, but I am wondering from what I have read about single stage and Omni having less pigment and various challenges. I had luck with the blaze red pearl MTK I sprayed a while back, but I know the odds are against me not having to color sand some type of blurb! I am thinking some of the pros here must have done this with MTK or a single stage pearl or metallic at one time or another. I think I did this with Delstar (magenta red metallic flake) some years back, and what it did was just make the metallic a little bit harder to see. The color was more solid, but in the bright light, you could see some metallic. Does anyone have any comments about Concept single stage? Personally I like the single stage since it is more of what I am used to (centari) and I do very well at leveling & buffing. Confidence thing I guess for a non pro.
Thanks in adavnce for the help,

Ron

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Old 09-24-2005, 09:52 PM
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Ron, if you can spray singlestage then spraying clear would be no problem for you. Spraying singlestage metalics is usually the toughest thing to shoot IMO----so if you don't have a problem with them don't be afraid of BC/CC.

Sanding and buffing a singlestage metalic or pearl is a very touchy operation. You can't take much material off at all or you'll damage the metalic or pearl making the paint look different. The operation should be limited to just a light finessing with some 2500, or 3000 grit paper followed by a limited amount of light buffing. You're not going to be able to remove any major orange peel so make sure she is nice and wet and smooth when you get the paint on.

I wouldn't even consider using a singlestage metalic or pearl on anything that needs to look good.

Repairs with singlestage metalics really suck unless you involve some clear.

My best advice would be to use a BC/CC system for any metalics or pearl colors, the benifits far outweigh the extra cost in materials. Bob
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Old 09-24-2005, 10:58 PM
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Single-stage metallics/pearls can be lightly buffed only, with maybe a TINY bit of spot color sanding to knock down dirt nibs in the finish. Even then there is a risk of disturbing the flakes that lay just beneath the surface, so any real color sanding would be absolutely out of the question. I'm surprised that many people still wish to use single-stage paint on their nice cars. In my opinion, it is best suited to industrial applications or cheap jobs that will not be buffed, though it could be argued that a solid color can be made to look very nice in a single-stage process.
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Old 09-24-2005, 11:38 PM
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Let me ask this question. What are your thoughts on spraying a solid color in single stage, color sanding to level surface and then clear coating, color sanding and buff compared to spraying just base, clearing and then final buff?
Which would be a more level/perfect finish? I am sure that at one time I sprayed black Deltron, wet sanded and cleared, or maybe it was Centari????? Hard to remeber as it has been awhile. I was spraying lacquers and centari mostly at that time and I think Deltron was fairly new, or atleast to me it was.
I do remember getting some incredible finishes by color sanding before clear though and then buffing on an old Chevy I had. I also did a gas tank for a bike that way about 14 years ago that turned out wet as well. I am trying to remember if that was the method for enamel or was it Deltron (DBU)? I also did a black Mazda truck in 94 that was solid single stage, color sanded and buffed. A ton of work, but it had a lot of depth. You could comb your hair, tell if you were a blond or not without any orange peel in the side of the door
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Old 09-25-2005, 08:45 AM
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I understand your wanting to use a SS as that is obviously what your use to.
A base paint for bc/cc is SOOOO easy to spray and dries almost instantly compaired to SS. It's also a LOT easier to color sand before a last coat if you want. You can shoot SS,so,a base would be a walk in the park.
Color sanding a solid SS is fine as long as you have good coverage.
I do it all the time on small projects as I just don't want to go thru the trouble of clearing a tool box or such.
I shot some U-Tech Black SS on a P/U and had some color sanding afterward and it did buff out great. I was about a wreck after shooting being SOO carefull as to not run it and I will never do a complete with a SS again.
TOO much room for error IMO.
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:02 AM
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Yeah, I have been thinking about it. I should go to BC/CC. I have sprayed deltron BC/CC in the past and it worked out good. Ofcourse it was black, which I think is as easy as it gets myself. Ever since one of my buds did me a favor and mixed into too much metallic into a quart on his project I sprayed (looked like hell) , I have avoided the BC/CC system. I do not paint that much, and what he did was not a system problem, just a STUPID problem, so I should jump back into it. I do remember DBU base drying quickly now that you mentioned that. Dust is always my paranoia.
If I go to a BC/CC system probably Deltron, any recommendations on spraying a cherry pearl? I have both conventional and HVLP. Conventional is still what I am most comfortable with - I know..I know, I am just getting to
be an old fart
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Old 09-25-2005, 10:43 AM
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I spray Deltron often, and would say that you should have no problems. It's very easy paint to control. Last week I painted an Intrepid with a burgundy pearl, and the only problem worth mentioning was that the color was VERY transparent. Actually, that is a good thing for the fake "candy" effect, as it gives the color a lot of depth. Too much depth in my case, since the test panel I shot indicated about 7 coats to hiding, which is just too much material! So I mixed a solid brick/blood red out of some better hiding (more opaque) toners and laid that down on the primered areas before proceeding with the (expensive) pearl color. After that, three coats hid nicely, and the job looked great! If you ever find that you are having trouble laying down a pearl or metallic evenly in the Deltron DBC system, you can get a product called DBC500, which when mixed 1:1 with reducer, can be used in various ways to improve metallic control, including mixing it directly into the basecoat.
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Old 09-26-2005, 11:39 PM
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Thanks to all for the help. Back to Deltron I guess. They still sell DBU don't they? I know about a year ago they did. My local jobber suggested going to the DBC. He said it was actually cheaper in the long run since you can use the same reducer all around. I do remember the DBU failry well, atleast for a shade tree painter. I baked a few brain cells on that stuff - Just kidding. It was the lacquer that did it.
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