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Old 09-06-2007, 08:42 PM
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Combination Brake roller shear

Harbor Freight has a combo pan box brake, roller, shear with a 36" 20 ga. capacity for about 329.00. Has anybody bought one? Are they any good? Sometimes things like these just look like tools but don't work like tools. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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Old 09-06-2007, 08:52 PM
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HF Shear roll brake.

I've got one but the 30 inch model. No way will it shear 20 gage, press brake and roll works ok. If you want to do Aluminum it'll work ok. Just expect it to be a P.O.S. and what ever you can do on it will be a plus.
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:57 PM
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Thanks, That is what I was afraid of. I listed it as a 36 in. but I think it is a 30 in.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:42 AM
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Front Suspension

Bought one last year. Havent used it in a couple of months, so I don't remember if it is 30 or 36. 36 I think.
Have only used it on 16 / 18 gauge. Won't shear of course.
Even bending a full width piece was work, but it worked. (I added a second handle and two of us applied pressure. At least it didn't break). Shorter pieces were easy. The roller seems to work real well, but I haven't used it much, mostly playing around.
I did the floor pans and overhead console in my sons 28 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...ournalid=30658
and couldn't have done them without it.
It should be a big help when we start doing the interior panels which will be much lighter.
Count me as satisfied, for the price.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Just expect it to be a P.O.S. and what ever you can do on it will be a plus.
Now that is words of encouragement if I ever heard any
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:23 AM
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3 in 1 combination machine

I have got 1 and it is a really good brand. It is a "Hafco Metalmaster". I have used quite a bit and it cuts, folds, and rolls really good. I have no complaints with it. I have only used .8mm material (which is what is recommended). Apart from that, I have nothing bad to say about it. Here is a pic of mine.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:12 AM
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I have the HF brake roll sheer. I got it when it was on sale for $250 a couple years ago. I never expected it to be a anything beyond what it is and for that I am happy with it. I use it routinely for body metal, brackets, and a 1000 little items.

It works great for me because I don't ask it to do what it frankly can't do and I have a lot of work for what it is good for so it is well worth it to me.

Besides metal I have found it is a great tool for cutting posterboard to mock up parts. I keep a foot thick stack of posterboard here I constantly am mocking up parts with. It is dreadfully handy to make a mark, drop the chop and keep on going.

If you understand what it is and it is what you need, it has value. It is a tool I use on a daily basis.




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Old 12-04-2011, 10:47 PM
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I couldn't agree more about what has been said by gow589.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:08 AM
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slip roller

I found build info for a slip roll on My tractor.com It takes a while to figure how it works since everything is painted green. My brother owned a printing company and I have some 36 in wide solid steel rollers from his spare parts for a newspaper press. I looked at our old farm machinery pile and saw enough screw adjusters , beaings , gears, sprokets chain. angle and flat iron, I won't have to buy anything but welding supplies. I now use a hand held HF shear, It was cheaper than repair parts for my Black and decker shear. I have a home made break but it's only 18 " wide, time to build a big one.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:28 AM
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Well I work on shears alot and some friendly advice. Gap between shear blades should be set to 10% of material thickness, the entire length. I have never worked on a H.F. shear but usually they have 4 sided blades, sometimes two.

Feel the edge of your blade with your fingernail and look for nicks, this will transfer into your material. If the blade is not gapped correctly, it will either crash blades, or try to fold the material. It doesnt appear that this model has a way of setting the gap other then shimming the blade from the housing.

Use a feeler gauge and check the gap the entire length jogging the top blade down manually to where it just passes the bottom blade. We normally set the gap within +-.002 . When tightening a blade, start in the middle working out, this ensures there is no wave in the blade. Also honing with a stone and lubricant, and making sure there is no trash behind the blade and mating surface is very important.

Seth
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:33 PM
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A friend has a 48" one of these. I don't think it willl even cut 16 ga over 36 in. but again I doubt he has tuned the shear blades. I would guess a good tune on the shear and you might get a 16 ga cut. Be carfeull. Bending might be a problem too as the handles are pretty short. Even a good break will have more leverage than these do.

I'm looking at a 48 in just for aluminum. I still haven't justified the cost vs just going over to the sheetmetal shop.
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 56Stude
Well I work on shears alot and some friendly advice. Gap between shear blades should be set to 10% of material thickness, the entire length. I have never worked on a H.F. shear but usually they have 4 sided blades, sometimes two.

Feel the edge of your blade with your fingernail and look for nicks, this will transfer into your material. If the blade is not gaped correctly, it will either crash blades, or try to fold the material. It doesn't appear that this model has a way of setting the gap other then shimming the blade from the housing.

Use a feeler gauge and check the gap the entire length jogging the top blade down manually to where it just passes the bottom blade. We normally set the gap within +-.002 . When tightening a blade, start in the middle working out, this ensures there is no wave in the blade. Also honing with a stone and lubricant, and making sure there is no trash behind the blade and mating surface is very important.

Seth
Good Advice!

I have dealt with shears for 30 years or so and am familiar with the big boy stuff, Striene, Halden, etc.
I too own the HF 3 in 1 machine. Mine is a classic example of bad qc. The holes in the shear blades did not line up with the holes in the castings. Therefore the bottom (anvil) blade had a rather large bow in it (0.053").

I removed the blades and set them up in my friends vertical mill and we remachined the holes onto a true center line. The blades were easily machined with a tool steel end mill cutter so they definitely are not a hardened steel.

Once the blades had the holes on center I was able to set the shear up at .002" gap. This did require shimming the bottom blade away from the casting. .001" - .005" shim stock was required.
It now shears 18 gauge adequately, naturally narrower is easier. It takes a lot of force to shear metal.
If you have used a stomp shear you will know how hard you have to come down on the pedal to shear 18 gauge steel.
You can literally stand on the pedal once the blade contacts the metal and nothing will happen.

You have to stomp on it to get a cut. the same thing applies to the HF 3 in 1, only thing is you can't stomp.
Lots of force with a fast initiation seems work best.

As for the brake function, I find it adequate and feel it requires no more force than a box and pan break . Either requires force to bend the metal.

All that said, the Hf 3 in 1 is a crap shoot at best, it might work out of the box, it might not.

If you don't have the resources to "tune" it then it isn't for you. I do not believe any of the Chinese 3 in 1 are any different - a crap shoot.

I think that the c shaped arms will fail first. I am going to remove one and have it copied, being cut on a water jet out of hot rolled steel, then machined as necessary.
a 2:1 reducer on the handle would go a long ways to making this a more user friendly machine.

Hope this and the previous post help.

edit; the blades on my 3-1 only have 2 cutting edges, you cannot flip them over, just turn them end to end.

Last edited by Old Fool; 12-28-2011 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 56Stude
........start in the middle working out, this ensures there is no wave in the blade.
Very good advice.
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