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Old 06-06-2009, 09:40 PM
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comp cams Big mutha thumpr, bee hive springs

Hi I am new to this forum, hope you guys can answer my question. I just finished putting together my first big block chevy (396) and upon adjusting the valves, the motor has become very very difficult to rotate by hand. I have a 20" breaker bar on the crank snout and i get a quarter turn out of the crank, than i feel as if i will break that bolt. I have the new Big mutha thumpr cam hyd. with matching lifters, comp cams bee hive springs, and roller rockers. Just wondering if it should be this difficult to rotate because of the high lift and the stiff springs?? I checked for coil bind and it is with in the limits. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

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Old 06-07-2009, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jppcrowe
I have a 20" breaker bar on the crank snout and i get a quarter turn out of the crank, than i feel as if i will break that bolt. *snip* this difficult to rotate because of the high lift and the stiff springs??
Don't turn over the engine by the damper bolt. It will snap off.

Was the engine relatively easy to turn over before you assembled the top end? Did the cam go in easily and turn freely?

Are the plugs in it? What about the valve adjustment? You can loosen all the valves, plugs out, and try turning it over. If there's a big difference in how easy it turns over, check your valve adjustment method (I recommend the "individual" way of adjusting valves as opposed to the "TDC" method, it makes it impossible to get it wrong, if you follow the directions correctly).

Those are fairly large bores, w/new rings on a fresh hone, expect a fair amount of friction when hand-turning the engine.

EDIT- I see that you have posted the exact same question THREE TIMES, within minutes of each other. Please do not do this! Now there's already two answers- on different threads.

Last edited by cobalt327; 06-07-2009 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:43 AM
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thanks for the reply, there are no plugs in it, compression is about 9.8 to1 but i dont think that matters if there are no plugs. i did adjust them with the tdc method, and then went though and used the individual method because it was so tight to turn. i also went from comp cams recommend 3/4 turn past lash to 1/2 past lash. motor was easy to turn before valve adjustment. lifters rotate in bores, and cam moved freely. every thing is fresh on motor. i just dont want to destroy the cam on startup, took all necessary steps for lube. isky rev lube, comp cams break in oil, vr1 40 weight. and thoughts??
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:02 AM
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Did you check piston to valve clearance when you assembled the engine ??
If not,you could be having issues with not enough p-v clearance.
Guy
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:09 AM
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i have the clearance, in fact even before i can get the cam to the top of the lobe it gets hard to spin over, but it feels more like the springs are so stiff that i just cant get it over the lobe., when adjusting the valves nothing hit as far as the pv clearance. its just when i got to the last cylinder adjustement and got the motor back to tdc i have trouble rotating it, i mean it might just be me and i am nervous about breaking the damper bolt, and all the talk about cam shaft failures. the springs are rated at 370 lbs/in and 155 lb/in open load. and the cam has a .522 on intake and a .507 on exhaust.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:16 AM
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I suppose that it could be the normal "stiction" of the valve train that is making the initial "start-up" hard to do by hand.

You really need a crank socket to turn the engine over with- so that you can really crank down on it and keep it turning. But- a fully assembled, fresh BBC is not going to just crank over by hand easily, in any event.

Use some oil break-in supplement before you start it for the first time, and be sure the timing and carb will allow it to crank up right away, w/o cranking on it for long. Much of the cam lube is already wiped off the lobes at this point- this usually occurs.

If what you say is so (valves adjusted correctly, no binding at any stage, etc.), you just have a stiff-feeling engine and it will be fine.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:19 AM
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thanks for the advice, thats how i felt about the motor, nothing binding just very tight, i never built a big block, a few small blocks, this is a total different ball game. thanks again, i feel a bit more confidient in my assembly now.
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Old 06-08-2009, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
You really need a crank socket to turn the engine over with
What exactly is this and how does it differ from the damper bolt? I've always just used the damper bolt so this is a new one to me. Is it something available from the web/cataloge outfits or is it something you fab up yourself?
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:05 AM
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There are sockets that slip over the snout of the crank and use the woodruff key to turn the crank.

But I like THIS type better.

Of course, if you have the where-with-all, something can easily be fabricated.

Thew point is- do not turn the engine by the damper bolt. It will break and then can be a beach to remove.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
There are sockets that slip over the snout of the crank and use the woodruff key to turn the crank.
Thanks cobalt.
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