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Old 02-20-2012, 06:27 PM
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Comp cams computer controlled series cam for Ford 302

Recently there has been lots of talk about people having trouble with comp cams camshafts going flat. Specifically XE series cams. I am looking at a comp cams computer controlled series cam for my 87 ford 302. It is supposed to work with my factory computer which is the main reason I chose it.

The cam in question is the 31-255-5.

Is this cam one that fails commonly? What do I do to avoid it besides the obvious - proper break in and proper amounts of ZDDP in the oil.


I am afraid of losing a cam and having to tear down the engine and rebuild it - I don't have that kind of money laying around and my engine is still a good engine as it is, just needs more torque for pulling a 5500# trailer. Stock specs is 270ft lb @ 2,400 rpm. I would like to see 300 to 350 ft lb. I plan to add headers and a better exhaust at the same time, as well as a new timing chain (and lifters) , a bunch of gaskets and seals and an oil pump.


Can someone fill me in on the steps to a proper cam change on a 302? I under stand the basic steps, but there may be some details I dont know about that are important to be done.

Insert cam. Drop in lifters, mount rocker arms, install push rods, torque rockers to spec. Install timing set, lining up the timing marks, then install the timing cover, intake and valve covers. Fill engine with oil, zddp additive, start engine, run at various speeds above idle for 20 mins. Change oil again/add zddp. Change oil again at 500 miles, keeping zddp in with every change.

Did i miss anything (other than coating the cam lobes and journals with assembly lube before installing it ad soaking the new timing chain in oil)?

Any help would be appreciated. I am not a total newbie as I may appear, ive done plenty of engine work, but mostly on SBC and BBC engines and never a new cam. Basically just installing heads, intakes, oil pumps, main/rod bearings, seals, etc. However Ford V8s are totally new to me and I know there are differences between the sbf and sbc/bbc. I know the 302 may need the rockers shimmed but I am unsure how to check for proper pushrod and/or shim sizes. I also dont know if I need to change valve springs with this cam, or break it in with only the outter valve springs (if it has more than one spring on each valve), etc.

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Old 02-21-2012, 08:44 PM
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no one has anything to say? :-(
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:09 PM
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You can rent this at no charge at Autozone (see picture) remember when priming a Ford the drill needs to turn counter clockwise.And you may want to check these out http://www.mre-books.com/engine/smallblock.html I have picked up some from www.half.com used at great prices.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffB
You can rent this at no charge at Autozone (see picture) remember when priming a Ford the drill needs to turn counter clockwise.And you may want to check these out http://www.mre-books.com/engine/smallblock.html I have picked up some from www.half.com used at great prices.
This article also has some good pics and info to help with your build:http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/09/efimotor/
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Old 02-22-2012, 07:55 AM
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If you just want a computer-compatible cam that won't go flat, why not keep the stock roller HO cam? With AFR 165 heads it's good for 400 HP.
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purplesmurf
If you just want a computer-compatible cam that won't go flat, why not keep the stock roller HO cam? With AFR 165 heads it's good for 400 HP.
Its not a HO engine nor roller cam unfortunately. Its a 302 in a truck. The reason for the cam switch is that I am interested in more low end torque for towing/hauling. I am even thinking of advancing the cam so the torque comes in sooner.
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