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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2012, 05:05 PM
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Did you have the deck on the block resurfaced ? If so how far .005, .010 ,.020 ?? depending on how much material was taken off ! You have to have the bottom of the intake milled so it will seat flat because when you mill the blocks deck the heads move down and away from the intake port mating surfaces! Now I'm not saying this is your problem. But I see this kind of creep all the time because of this, and by the looks of the top of your gaskets pushed up and the centers sucked over it reminds me of it! when tightening the intake bolts you can actually warp an intake! They have plates to go between the intake and heads if enough deck surface was removed and the gap is too big to be taken up by the gaskets! years ago we used to glue 2 gaskets together to take up this gap!! If everything is machined right you don't need to goop up your gaskets. And don't use the rtv gasket makers around aluminum it has an acid in it that reacts on the aluminum and can break down the surface protective barrier and start breaking down the aluminum (ionization) ! That's just a thought from what I see in the pics! Im not saying its your problem!! I also usually saw this on crate engines that came into my shop months after they were installed by the owners.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2012, 06:21 PM
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A little trick we do at the shop, by the way we aren't allowed to pull apart an engine unless we have diagnosed the problem, is, on a no idle is to spray carb cleaner anywhere an air leak can be possibly happen and to block all intake vacuum and egr on the manifold. This eliminates any possibilities away from the manifold. You can also spray down the carb if it doesn't change anything then your not running lean so no vac leak. If it tries to idle then you are running lean do to vac or dirty idle circuit. There are a number of ways to check to rich of mixture one easy one is to spray carb cleaner down the carb if it tries to die it's rich. This is not for fine tuning but for finding problems.
This one I'm sure you've never heard of but you can try, is to establish some stable rpm then stick your fingers down the carb one on each side of the primary and plug the small ventury this will force the idle circuit to work even when it is plugged. If the rpm goes up you can drop the throttle and with your fingers still in the carb it may idle. One other thing is a slightly open secondary throttle plate will cause a no idle. The idea here is to eliminate one area of the engine's system and confirm it to be good or bad so you can move to the next area without going back and forth.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-10-2012, 06:49 AM
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Itīs just a regular shortblock, one piece rear seal, bored to 355cuins, nothing more.
Ignition is all MSD, connections all verified.
All vac connections have new tubing, head gaskets new one year ago,
intake and carb gaskets new yesterday.
This motor was running just fine before I had to sort out my oil circulation issue.
Right now the igntion coil is new, MSD box new, wires new, carb rebuilt,
even a new fuel filter.
This is how it all looks.





Canīt figure out how to upload a vid of my tach and vac gauges,
just wonīt load.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:39 AM
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Good compression numbers for pump gas

A big cam will dramatically lower the cranking compression numbers.

FYI, A 9:1 engine with a small cam can have the same cranking pressure as a 11:1 engine with a big cam.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2012, 11:36 AM
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I know the motor has fuel, has spark and air.
It runs if I peddle it, so Iīm thinking now itīs the idle circuit in the carb.
So Iīm going to strip it again and blow it through.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2012, 01:20 PM
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What did you take apart while fixing the oil issue. I would look at anything related to that first if it ran ok before you took it apart.
Also have you put a vacuum gauge on it.
If vacuum is low, remove and plug all ports and see if it idles. A bad pcv or brake booster may not always be obvious.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2012, 01:29 PM
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The oil issue turned out to be a broken oil filter adapter, nothing on top of the engine was touched during the search and repair.
I have a vac gauge and when I get the car started it goes wild.
I checked the brake booster, it passed.
Would a PCV valve cause this much grief ?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2012, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
I have a vac gauge and when I get the car started it goes wild.
http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Using...3/article.html
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2012, 03:09 PM
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Usually as revs rise the vac drops, not here, click the pic.




Thanks techinspector1, from what Iīve read weak springs seems closest but mine are only three years old, came with the heads.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 01:46 PM
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Cutting out any more diddling around, the heads will be off tomorrow morning.
Then Iīll see whatīs going on in there.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 02:16 PM
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With the compression readings you have I dont know why you want to pull the heads. They dont indicate any internal cylinder issues. I would be more inclined to look at the valve train or electrical connections or even the firing order
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Last edited by T-bucket23; 03-12-2012 at 02:27 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 03:25 PM
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I had an idling problem at the end of last season's driving that about ruined the year for me. It turns out the distributor vacuum line had split - and was most likely caused by a very loud backfire after I screwed up reinstalling the distributor . It blew a 3/8" vacuum cap off which I just reinstalled without looking at anything else. When I finally put it away for the year, I decided to do a clean up - and one of the first things I pulled was the vacuum line - and it had a 2" split. I also went to the wide terminal MSD cap for my small diameter billet distributor as there were some signs of tracking The small cap has no provision for venting, and then it causes rust in the distributor - a known and reported problem for MSD. The carb was also well carboned up, probably from that big backfire and a couple smaller ones before I figured it out.

This is that carb, clean as new a couple hundred miles earlier:


And the wide cap:


(it now has a matching secondary wire)
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 03:46 PM
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Iīve adjusted the valves four times now, ignition is all but brand new,
distributor cap & pickup, MSD digital box, MSD coil, new plug wires.
Iīve checked the firing order, all vac lines are new, gaskets are new.
There isīnt anything above the cylinder head gaskets I haveīnt reviewed and renewed.
The head gaskets on there right now are 0.015 compressed, I canīt remember who made them but Iīm going back to Fel Pros, thicker as well.
I have a set of gaskets in the garage, 0.051 compressed, Iīll lose some compression but who cares, there ainīt no more money for this saga.
All the stuff is off the top, tomorrow Iīm under the car to unhook the headers and get them out.
Poop is I have to raise the motor........hate that.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:00 PM
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I'd go fishing, and use the MSD for an anchor. Seen more of those things cause more problems then they possibly can be worth.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:23 PM
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Fuel Wash

Hey Man, IMHO you have a primary needle and seat issue or a float setting thats way too high on the primary side of the carburetor. The gaskets were not sealed well enough to keep a flooded primary bowl from washing them out. Use a better sealant in case of a carburetor malfunction. olNolan
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