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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:49 PM
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Take a look at the power brake vacuum check valve as well as that filter that's in line just behind the carb (and something I'll be adding to mine). Both are plastic and can crack. Also, that booster itself - if the diaphragm is split, you will have a massive vacuum leak. You'll have a 6 hour (or is it 7 hours now ) head start on us so maybe this problem will be gone by the time we get up.

Dave W

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2012, 01:42 AM
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I replaced both of those brake booster related parts too.

I let the gaskets set up for two days before starting the car, I donīt think gas washed them out, floats are set right.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
I replaced both of those brake booster related parts too.
DANG!!!
Well - there is always that fall back position - import a new GM crate motor - .
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
DANG!!!
Well - there is always that fall back position - import a new GM crate motor - .
Iīve thought about it

Just got the pass. side cylinder head off........nothing to report.
My helicoil fix ītween cylinders 6 & 8 is holding up.

Mr Poopup got me, forgot to drain the block... ...
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:23 AM
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vacuum lines

Hey Malc, Did you by any chance hook the front vacuum lines to the carburetor in reverse of what they were before? If you have the gauge line on the ported vacuum nipple that would explain the way your gauge is acting. If your distributor was set up for ported advance, I would suppose it could have too much timing if connected to manifold vacuum. Have you put a timing light on it since you put it back together or did you just turn the distributor enough to get it to start?
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Hey Malc, Did you by any chance hook the front vacuum lines to the carburetor in reverse of what they were before? If you have the gauge line on the ported vacuum nipple that would explain the way your gauge is acting. If your distributor was set up for ported advance, I would suppose it could have too much timing if connected to manifold vacuum. Have you put a timing light on it since you put it back together or did you just turn the distributor enough to get it to start?
MSD dizzys are set up for ported - I went through that 'exercise' last summer They WILL run on full manifold vac, but advance too fast and at idle without some mods.
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:56 AM
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Vacuum Nipples

For what its worth, I looked at the Demon Carburetor site, the front nipple is ported, the second nipple toward the rear is direct manifold. Looks like Malc is not going to leave a single stone unturned considering he has already got the heads off. Good luck on it Malc, my first thought was that it may have spun a bearing, considering the fact that you had oiling issues. God forbid. Okay I'll shut up now, don't want to jinx you.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2012, 11:31 AM
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I double checked my distr. vacuum port, itīs connected to the front, vac gauge to rear.

Drained the block both sides......nice shower there.
No issues on the other side either when the head came off,
except there was water in the bores, not a lot, but I didīnt expect any, the water was all out.
The gaskets I had on there were Victor Reintz, canīt for the life of me remember where I bought them.........gettinī old.

Hereīs todayīs pics.




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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2012, 12:37 PM
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Just out of observation six and eight look like they weren't hitting at all as they're clean unless you cleaned them since removal. I did notice where you said you helicoiled between them and if that's the case Mal, I'd inspect the heli coiled hole closely for cracks leading into both cylinders.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 08:31 AM
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Heartburn

Well, Now that you are over the initial stomach ache, whats the verdict?
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 09:25 AM
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I didīnt find anything out of order, puzzled by the water in 1, 3, 5.
Helicoil is fine no cracks either side into the bore, 6 & 8 are clean īcos I scrubbed them.

This saga didīnt happen overnight, when I was sorting my oil issue test drives were getting worse one after the other, a misfire was my initial
verdict.
Thatīs when I changed sparkplugs, wires and the pickup in the distributor.
After the new oil filter adapter came and I fitted it is when the car became impossible to drive.
Itīs sat for longer periods without use and without consequences.

Iīd like to find a reason why a vac gauge can run backwards as well.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 10:51 AM
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Heartburn

Hey Man, I hate it when a plan doesn't come together! I think that the vacuum gauge was acting nutty because of the massive internal vacuum leak at the intake ports.

I'll throw some observations out there for what its worth, I'm not a pro engine builder, but have built (and screwed up)(and blew up)(and had failures with products and techniques) quite a few over the years.

I have never had success with real thin head gaskets, they usually last for a while, then develop leaks(compression or coolant). I have had great success with a thicker FelPro permatorque type gasket(the blue ones). So you loose a tad of compression and quench, big deal. Make sure you get gaskets for aluminum heads as the fire ring on some will not work on aluminum.

I use Permatex aviation sealant on head bolt threads also intake gaskets. Silicone on the manifold ends. Beam type torque wrenches are way more accurate than the clickers.

I have never seen studs used on an intake manifold before, seems it would be difficult to install because of the angles, unless the manifold holes were enlarged.

If fuel didn't wash out your intake gaskets, then it was not torqued down enough, and use better sealant not affected by fuel or oil. I seal the gaskets on both sides and use plenty, but not sloppy. Also possible your head gaskets were undertorqued.

If you bought those heads used, they may have had a pre-existing problem. Full inspection and testing might be a good idea.

Good luck and keep us updated on the repairs. It is a real nice looking, sanitary engine and compartment. olNolan
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 01:18 PM
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Interesting thoughts, I was wary of ultra thin gaskets but thought Iīd give them a go.
I got as far as getting the heads on, no nuts yet just resting, rather time consuming cleaning all the stud threads and running a tap into the head
bolt holes. All the bores and piston crowns are done as well.
As you can see in the following pic Iīve used a Fel Pro thicky this time.
The heads were not undertorqued, I did them to ARP recommendations,
a whopping 85ftlbs, as for the clicker wrench I have no other type and have never seen them for sale here in Spain.

The heads were bought brand new back in 2009, Brodix IK200s, got them from Competition Products, cheaper than Summit at that time.

The studs, I have this horrible fear of stripping out threads and use studs where ever I can and stainless are the best, although I see the prices are shooting up.
I leave one head with the studs installed and after the intake is resting in place I install the studs in the other side using the two nut technique.
I use two nuts cut thin locked onto the stud and when itīs in I remove them.
I did write ARP telling them to make them like the head studs with the Allen Wrench hole in the tip, they never did.

I also took a sidetrip today painting the lower firewall which sans headers
is easy to get to from below.


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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:32 PM
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Going back together slowly, got rid of the ugly black on the headers.
After reading another guyīs solution to a similar
problem on another forum I installed new lifters,
fingers crossed.

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Old 03-17-2012, 03:23 PM
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Did you wind up using the .0051" head gaskets?....What's your deck height?
What quench do you have now?
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