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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2012, 01:53 PM
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Does it run - or have customs impounded your parts?

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2012, 10:48 PM
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I received the gaskets last Monday and installed them Tuesday but next day I came down with a Bī of a cold, still with me.
Iīve managed to get as far as intake on, rockers set in place.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
I received the gaskets last Monday and installed them Tuesday but next day I came down with a Bī of a cold, still with me.
Iīve managed to get as far as intake on, rockers set in place.
OK - I thought you had just abandoned us

That cold - do understand that as we are in allergy season now and the effect is close for me
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:44 AM
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Worry not, I will let you know when I get to crank it.

BTW, Victor Reinz gaskets are sold under the Clevite name.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:00 AM
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Three weeks ago the doc's test showed I had swine flu and it's still with me. Not much of it left, but enough to be annoying at times. Gotta get it fired off Malc, I'm waiting to see what the end result is gonna be on this one.
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:59 PM
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Iīve been too bad to get under the car and hook up the exhaust, sooo tired.
Iīm also suffering from a lack of confidence in me to get it right this time.
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77sportcoupe
Hello, Im new here but have read threw your entire issue, just wondering if you have turned the engine over and made sure all your cam lobes are good?
Iīm sorry I missed this post, thatīs a good point.
I have replaced all my hydraulic lifters as another "fix it" while Iīm in there.

If I had wiped out a lobe or two there would be metal debris in the oil wouldīnt there ?
I have changed the oil since this started and the oil was used but not contaminated with metal.
Iīll see if I can get to turn it over tomorrow.
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
Iīve been too bad to get under the car and hook up the exhaust, sooo tired.
Iīm also suffering from a lack of confidence in me to get it right this time.
Malk: Lack of confidence hits every good mechanic or tech or painter at some time in their life and is a hard thing to get over but it sounds to me by your thread you have more of a burn out which is sometimes just as bad
if not even worse and its really hard to trouble shoot on a thread like this I know we all wish we were close enough to come over have a coffee and give you a hand! And you can have a worn lobe or bowled lifter and never see it in your oil !!

Chris
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:47 PM
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Spent a few hours installing the headers and connecting them up to the exhaust.
Turned the motor by hand and all the pushrods did the up and down thing but really a dial indicator would be the tool to use.

If we donīt get the rains tomorrow I should be able to get the rest of the motor together.
One thing I found out, when number 1 is at TDC the timing pointer is spot on,
needed to know that.

To get over the brain slump Iīm thinking about the next job, inner front wheel seal pass. side, saw the oil on my rim today.
And I bought material to do my inner door panels, never knew until last week there is a trimmer in town.

I appreciate all the input you guys give me, you are the nearest ears for me to wail to.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:28 AM
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Inbetween rain, hailstones and cold weather I have the motor together,
when other duties let me Iīll get to starting it.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:46 AM
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Started it today..........................runs just like it did before...

If the cam has wiped a lobe or two, what are the consequenses,
do I have to check all the bearings ?
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:01 AM
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Sad state of affairs!! Sounds like you have your summer project 'chosen' for you.

OK - not sure you have done this, and I'm too lazy to reread 70 plus earlier posts.

You need to pull those valve covers and with a long throw dial indicator, check each valve lift at the rocker arm. Not sure what the actual gross cam lobe lift is, but measure at the push rod end. Small variations (.005 or so between valves) are not an indicator.

Way back, you said you replaced the MSD box. Did you replace the coil? Spark plug wires? - Mine were cross firing at the small diameter MSD cap so went to the big Ford style. Then the distributor electronics(mag pickup) and the reluctor - are they in good shape.

The crank bearings and steel chips from the camshaft - the camshaft lobes didn't wear all at once, so that will mean the metal particles will wash into the pan. If you are 'lucky', the pan will have a magnet or barring that, the drain plug. If not most will lie in the bottom, though some will be picked up, sent through the oil pump, then to filter, ending there.

Would I pull the pan? Yes. Would I inspect the bearings? Yes. Would I pull the oil pump? Absolutely and replace it regardless of whether there is any damage to bearings. Now, off comes that intake - again. And those lifters - all into the trash. Now - it's time to consider the camshaft. Another flat tappet or an upgrade to steel roller version (and a new distributor drive gear).

If you were in the US - I might recommend pulling that engine, a full cleaning, then a full rebuild - or maybe a new GM crate motor - I can't recall what Spanish import duties were for our turbine installations, but weren't cheap!!

Others will have their recommendations - mine are the minimum and probably what I would do myself

Keep us in the loop, sad as the story is

Dave W
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:20 AM
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refuses to run

I would pin point the problem before checking crank bearings, it could be a cam bearing turned and the oil hole is not lined up or on higher lift cams u should remove the inner spring (dual valve springs) during breakin period and put it back in after a 1000 miles or so. another cause could be adjustment was tight. push rods to long for your camshaft could be another cause, I run the comp cams oil additive in my big muthr thumper cam and have had good results. now a couple questions, do you hear any upper valve train noise??? are u running a electric fuel pump or manual?, what year is your block? and what carb r you running? steve
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 07:48 AM
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Along with the MSD box I replaced the distributor cap, wires and coil,
the pickup/reluctor was replaced just a short time ago.
The oil pump is relatively new, eight months.
Iīve had a high volume pump in there and a regular, no change in the symptoms as they progressed downhill.
Lifters are new installed last week as well.
Timing chain front cover all newish.
Carb is a 750 Speed Demon, runs just the same with my 650 Speed Demon
on there.
Fuel pump is mechanical, block year I donīt know, all I know is it is a "roller block" came as a short block back in 2004 with flat tappet cam but nothing else.
I have one of those magnets on the oil filter so maybe I need to cut the filter open, easy first step.
Iīll have to get a dial indicator from somewhere, my lift at the cam is
0.423 int./0.446 exh. and Iīm using 1.6:1 roller rockers.

This time last year this motor was running, and as I said before this problem
snuck up on me, not one day itīs running next day nada.

As this car has clocked up 26 years now there are some parts that have not been replaced (not many) and one is the pickup in the fuel tank.
The motor "runs" as before, will not idle, needs me to get on the gas to keep it running, let off it dies, so could a bad pickup in the tank or partially blocked fuel line cause this ?

Iīm fishing for other ways soīs not to get into the motor again.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc

As this car has clocked up 26 years now there are some parts that have not been replaced (not many) and one is the pickup in the fuel tank.
The motor "runs" as before, will not idle, needs me to get on the gas to keep it running, let off it dies, so could a bad pickup in the tank or partially blocked fuel line cause this ?

Iīm fishing for other ways soīs not to get into the motor again.
Malc: I just came in for lunch and read this paragraph!!! I have seen torque converters stall an engine at idle ( and it comes on very slow as the converter slowly goes bad especially low cost brands!!! Summit, Jegs, etc The pitch of the blades or parts wear( from heat, pressure abuse etc) change inside the converter and change the stall speed very gradually!!! Im not saying this is the cause but it just made me think I drive my cars hard with very hard launches and I change converters when any change is noted! Its an easy check if your engine still stalls at idle when put back together just unbolt the converter and push it away from the flywheel and start the car if it idles good your converters stalling the engine ! Im only throwing this out there because Ive run into this before over the years! The odds are its not your problem! BUT!!

Chris
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