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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 11:15 AM
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refuses to run

dont fret u will get this. I would eliminate any fuel issues by checking for fuel volume at the carb. just get a glass jar and crank over engine and you should have hard stream of fuel from pump. also look for fuel contamination in the fuel in ur jar. best is if u had a fuel gauge you could use.....if u have good fuel and thats the second carb, then u will have to probably look else were..... if not correct fuel then i would start by checking the spring in ur pump, or replacing pump..... steve Oh can anyone tell me how to get a pic of my car on profile???? having a hell of a time here

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 04:25 PM
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refuses to run

Did you check the bottom of your old lifters ?
That is a good indicator of cam wear.
You might try doing a step by step diagnoses on this thread by maybe first checking the timing with a light and vacuum with a gauge, and so on.
That way people can help with their experience.
Thanks, Scot
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 11:38 PM
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I canīt time the engine because it wonīt idle, I have to keep the revs up to 2500-3000 or it drops dead.
Hereīs a pic of the old lifters, front of engine to the right, all in order.



Large Image.
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77sportcoupe
dont fret u will get this. I would eliminate any fuel issues by checking for fuel volume at the carb. just get a glass jar and crank over engine and you should have hard stream of fuel from pump.
Today I did what you suggested, connected a long braided line to my pump outlet into a can and cranked......nothing.
Removed the fuel pump and installed another, cranked.....nothing.
I started to wonder when I disconnected the line from the filter to fuel pump,
usually I get a gasoline hand wash but yesterday there was......nothing.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:07 AM
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hook the line to the suction side of the pump and put the other end in a can of gas, then see how the car runs.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2012, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
hook the line to the suction side of the pump and put the other end in a can of gas, then see how the car runs.
Will do, I was rather stumped for my next course of action.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:37 AM
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refuses to run

on the left lower face of engine (looking at it) there are 2 bolt holes, not the lower hole but the one just to the upper right of the lower one. Your fuel pump drive rod is in line with that hole...., It will have threads but if theres a bolt in there for any reason and its to long it can hit the rod and can flatten the fuel drive lobe on your camshaft...... it should have just a bolt a 1/2 long to keep from having a oil leak.....
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77sportcoupe
on the left lower face of engine (looking at it) there are 2 bolt holes, not the lower hole but the one just to the upper right of the lower one. Your fuel pump drive rod is in line with that hole...., It will have threads but if theres a bolt in there for any reason and its to long it can hit the rod and can flatten the fuel drive lobe on your camshaft...... it should have just a bolt a 1/2 long to keep from having a oil leak.....
Not mine, when I ordered this short block I specified mechanical fuel pump but they sent me an enigma, the boss was there for a mechanical pump but the hole to the cam for the pushrod was not completely drilled,
I had to drill it myself. Also that bolthole is blind.
That bolt you mention can be used to hold the pump pushrod up while installing the pump, I manage without but it takes awhile longer.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
hook the line to the suction side of the pump and put the other end in a can of gas, then see how the car runs.
I got around to doing this today, same results, will run at 2000rpm,
let off the gas and it dies immediately.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
Not mine, when I ordered this short block I specified mechanical fuel pump but they sent me an enigma, the boss was there for a mechanical pump but the hole to the cam for the pushrod was not completely drilled,
I had to drill it myself. Also that bolthole is blind.
That bolt you mention can be used to hold the pump pushrod up while installing the pump, I manage without but it takes awhile longer.

Wow.
Drilling the hole for the fuel pump rod is tough. Did you drill the hole for the oil return? I sense an electric pump in your future.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:42 AM
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The hole just needed finishing, pump to cam, everything else was done.
Itīs so weird a block came out like that.

Not a bad thought..........electric pump.

Iīm looking at getting a dial indicator to check the cam lobes.
Itīs all thatīs left to do.

Apart from a new frikken motor....................
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:18 PM
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Hey Malc,

Sorry to hear your having so much trouble with this.
The last sbc that I pulled down had some of the cam lobes completely flatten out, quite visibly noticeable EASY by 1/8" or more, mind you it was an all standard engine from 1973 that had never been touched before BUT, it was still running and would idle down to 500rpm ???

Duke
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:14 AM
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Went out this morning to get a dial indicator and stand,
typical they didīnt have one in stock and as they say here about everything................................maņana.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2012, 10:40 AM
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I can't remember if you mentioned checking fuel pump pressure yet. Sorry, too lazy to go back and read all the pages.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
Went out this morning to get a dial indicator and stand,
typical they didīnt have one in stock and as they say here about everything................................maņana.
Malc: look in the pawn shops!! a lot of machinists pawn and sell very good tools when they retire or upgrade what they have! And you can find some very good deals on mikes calipers dial indicators etc!!

Chris
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