Compression Values For Engine That Refuses To Run - Page 8 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #106 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2012, 04:03 AM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
Read all the comments and all seem in their way valid.
As I said before this happened over a period of time,
it wasīnt "yesterday runs okay, today itīs poop".

Vacuum leak, it would have to be a big one, intake has been off,
what ?, four times and it still exhibited the same symptoms.
Surely I canīt have reinstalled everything wrong that many times ?

So right here right now Iīm going for cam wear and I may not be able to check the cam lift until Monday/Tuesday.

The dial indicator I "got" yesterday wouldīnt measure the movement I needed so they have ordered up another, could be here today but I doubt it.
Iīm not starting it again until I have verified the state of the cam.

The last time I ran it the vac gauge showed 18-20 @ 2500rpm.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #107 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2012, 07:25 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: At Speed
Age: 51
Posts: 1,342
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 27 Times in 27 Posts
Flat cam wont prevent the engine from idling. Maybe cam walk.
You should be able to just fill the carb bowel through the vent tube and start the engine and it should idle until the bowel runs dry, usually 3-5 minutes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #108 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2012, 09:56 AM
T-bucket23's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Engine basic condition - how to check Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 57
Posts: 5,181
Wiki Edits: 26

Thanks: 7
Thanked 111 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
Read all the comments and all seem in their way valid.
As I said before this happened over a period of time,
it wasīnt "yesterday runs okay, today itīs poop".

Vacuum leak, it would have to be a big one, intake has been off,
what ?, four times and it still exhibited the same symptoms.
Surely I canīt have reinstalled everything wrong that many times ?

So right here right now Iīm going for cam wear and I may not be able to check the cam lift until Monday/Tuesday.

The dial indicator I "got" yesterday wouldīnt measure the movement I needed so they have ordered up another, could be here today but I doubt it.
Iīm not starting it again until I have verified the state of the cam.

The last time I ran it the vac gauge showed 18-20 @ 2500rpm.
I don't understand your logic. This is not a cam, piston, cylinder etc issue. You either have a fuel system issue or an ignition system issue.
Vacuum leaks can be difficult to find sometimes. Why not take 10 minutes to plug all the vacuum lines at the carb or manifold and see if it runs better.
A bad cam would give you a miss at idle if it was flat but would most likely not get better at speed
__________________
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity



Chet
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #109 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2012, 10:45 AM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
Although my pump test failed to get gas flowing, the last time it ran the carb filled up nicely.
The MSD box is new, pickup in the distributor is new, wires are new, the rotor is pointing to number 1 @ 15šBTDC, set that today.
Where would there be a failure in the ignition to let the car run at 2500 but not idle, shuts down like every wire and feed line was chopped off, doesīnt linger, splutter, cough or spit ?

Iīll get it back on four wheels and do your cap the vacuum ports test.
Iīll take out the pump pushrod and measure it, itīs an ARP piece if I remember right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #110 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 02:26 AM
thinwhiteduke's Avatar
Living In The Past
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Downunder
Age: 54
Posts: 428
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 36
Thanked 36 Times in 32 Posts
Listen to T-bucket 23

Still sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

Duke
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #111 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 09:37 AM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
Got the wheel seal done.

Plugged the four vac connections to the carb at the carb.
Same results, then with just the vac gauge connected, as before it
goes up with the revs not down as per the norm.

The motor is now back together as it was before this all began.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #112 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 02:54 PM
thinwhiteduke's Avatar
Living In The Past
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Downunder
Age: 54
Posts: 428
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 36
Thanked 36 Times in 32 Posts
So that means it's fixed???

Duke
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #113 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 03:11 PM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
No, itīs not fixed, "same results as before" means it runs with me peddling the gas, stop peddling and the engine dies.....immediately.
A vac gauge should go down as the revs go up.

The hunt will go on, valve lift check next.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #114 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 03:15 PM
T-bucket23's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Engine basic condition - how to check Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 57
Posts: 5,181
Wiki Edits: 26

Thanks: 7
Thanked 111 Times in 96 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by malc
No, itīs not fixed, "same results as before" means it runs with me peddling the gas, stop peddling and the engine dies.....immediately.
A vac gauge should go down as the revs go up.

The hunt will go on, valve lift check next.
Not 100% true on the vacuum gauge. It will go down when you stab it but should come right back as the engine catches up. You carb needs vacuum to work at any speed. The fact that you need to pedal it is almost a sure sign that it is fuel / Vacuum related.
What was the reading at idle?
__________________
Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity



Chet
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #115 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 03:20 PM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
There is no idle, itīs 2000+ or nothing.

Plenty of fuel, the float bowls are at their set levels.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #116 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 03:27 PM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
This analysis from the "Reading A Vac Gauge" link I was given earlier sums it up best;

Weak Valve Springs
When revving the engine hard, needle varies between 14 – 22 inches of mercury. As rpm increases, a wider variation occurs in needle movement.


Doesīnt include engine drops dead and will not idle.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #117 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2012, 04:45 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: At Speed
Age: 51
Posts: 1,342
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 27 Times in 27 Posts
If it has compression and spark, all thats lacking is fuel. Try dribbling fuel into the carb and see if it will idle. I drove a car home by filling a beer can with gas and punching a few holes in the bottom to meter the fuel a little.
Try yanking the distributor around and see if you can get it to just run.
This car doesnt have a lockup torque convertor does it?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #118 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 04:16 AM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
Just ran it with the lockup convertor disconnected, no change.

I got it to run "better" by stuffing a towel in the rear barrels of the carb.
Got it to idle down to 100 lumpy rpms but it wouldīnt idle continuously without help from my right foot.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #119 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 06:59 AM
malc's Avatar
Living At The Speed Of Life
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Espaņa Right Coast
Posts: 3,261
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 90
Thanked 93 Times in 79 Posts
Got it to idle down to 100 lumpy rpms but it wouldīnt idle continuously without help from my right foot.
Should read 600 rpms.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #120 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 07:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
refuses

i would remove gas cap if it runs u have a tank vent problem, also do u have catalytic converters on it? position your fuel reg. so u can see fuel pressure when it is running. and make sure your secondarys are not being held open by something.....steve
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saginaw refuses to shift when hot Saito Transmission - Rearend 9 01-04-2011 07:06 PM
My wife refuses to support Bailouts!! Javelin360 Hotrodders' Lounge 14 06-21-2009 09:31 AM
Adjust Values Wayne Wagstaff Hotrodding Basics 4 05-14-2007 11:08 AM
392 Hemi Values FM2000 Engine 1 06-16-2004 12:25 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.