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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2011, 04:44 AM
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I love compressor threads.. Heres one that makes air from air...
http://youtu.be/ytwP1QPLm10


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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2011, 09:42 PM
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Oldred,

Dragging up this post again to ask what gotcha's do you think I would run into by changing out this 3phase motor for a 3 hp 220 one from HF.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-horse...tor-68302.html

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=56019
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=56020

The reason I ask I can get the compressor for 75 take off the 3phase motor add the HF 3 HP one for 150 and only be into this thing $225. Might be a good experiment. I am sure I can SB the tank if necessary and I should have one nice big unit.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2011, 06:58 AM
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Changing out the motor is easy and is the usual way to solve the three phase problem so you should be fine there. My biggest concern still would be that tank, I'm not kidding about how dangerous those things are! Unless you had it hydo tested you really should keep that pressure at below 100 PSI and personally I wouldn't use it even at that, even if it has been tested you should keep that pressure below 125 PSI max. It happened years ago and I don't have pics, I sure wish I did, but I saw the results of a ruptured tank about the same size as that one take out almost the entire wall of a two car garage, I mean totally gone, pieces of the wall were lying against the owners house over 50 feet away! The roof was sagging on one corner because the support was gone and there was debris lying all over the place like a bomb had gone off, don't underestimate how dangerous a rusty tank can be.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2011, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
biggest concern still would be that tank,..... Unless you had it hydo tested......don't underestimate how dangerous a rusty tank can be.
Good advice. I guess I will have to have it hydro'd. What kind of places do that? What does it cost to hydro.? Cant I just put a pressure release valve on it purging pressure at 150 or something.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2011, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastsidebuzz
Good advice. I guess I will have to have it hydro'd. What kind of places do that? What does it cost to hydro.? Cant I just put a pressure release valve on it purging pressure at 150 or something.
http://www.firekingofseattle.com/services.html

I strongly suggest spending a little time and money and have that tank tested.
I also would install a new safety relief valve after testing, I just don't trust old relief valves.

March 1974 I was in the hospital with a broken back, the guy in the bed next to me wasn't so lucky. He had a home made air compressor setup explode on him, nearly loosing both his legs.

Do not end up in his situation or worse because you were too cheap, or didnt want to take the time to drive into Seattle and have your tank tested.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 10:39 PM
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I stumbled across this thread while doing some research for a compressor for my shop/garage and I'm glad I did. Lots of excellent info here, guys, thanks! However, I do have a question, probably a stupid one, but in a setup such as ToddMcF2002's what is the purpose for running elaborate drops to the other side of the small room, when you could just a easily connect a hose directly to the compressor (or better yet install a hose reel right above it on the wall) and avoid all that piping?

BTW, I'm probably going to end up going with one of the US General compressors from Harbor Freight. I just can't make up my mind which one to get, the 2 stage 15.8 CFM one (#93274) or it's baby brother with the single stage pump and 12.8 CFM (#3848). The bigger one is double the price for just 3 more CFM, albeit it is a 2 stage. My main uses will be running impacts, air ratchets, blowing off mowers, and such as that. I would occasionally use a die grinder with it but not often. It's hard to justify the difference in price considering the use. It looks to me like the smaller one, the 3848/US660V, is also a rebranded Belaire, specifically the Belaire 6160V minus the side ports in the tank. Thoughts?
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2011, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warhammer
I stumbled across this thread while doing some research for a compressor for my shop/garage and I'm glad I did. Lots of excellent info here, guys, thanks! However, I do have a question, probably a stupid one, but in a setup such as ToddMcF2002's what is the purpose for running elaborate drops to the other side of the small room, when you could just a easily connect a hose directly to the compressor (or better yet install a hose reel right above it on the wall) and avoid all that piping?

It's to remove water from the air, if you just run a hose directly from the compressor tank you will have a LOT of water in your air supply! By using all that metal pipe you remove most of this water because it will condense on the pipe walls and drain into the collection drops instead of exiting the end of the air hose and into your tools, paint (water drops in paint! ), etc. As the air comes from the tank during heavy use it will still be hot from the compression process so the moisture it contains will be in vapor form which will mostly just pass right through a moisture separator. The metal piping then acts as a heat exchanger that cools the air and allows the vapor to condense into liquid water that can be collected and drained, without this you could almost water your lawn with your air hose on a humid day! Well not actually that bad but you do get a lot of liquid water mixed with your air as the water vapor condenses as it expands and cools.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2011, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
It's to remove water from the air, if you just run a hose directly from the compressor tank you will have a LOT of water in your air supply! By using all that metal pipe you remove most of this water because it will condense on the pipe walls and drain into the collection drops instead of exiting the end of the air hose and into your tools, paint (water drops in paint! ), etc. As the air comes from the tank during heavy use it will still be hot from the compression process so the moisture it contains will be in vapor form which will mostly just pass right through a moisture separator. The metal piping then acts as a heat exchanger that cools the air and allows the vapor to condense into liquid water that can be collected and drained, without this you could almost water your lawn with your air hose on a humid day! Well not actually that bad but you do get a lot of liquid water mixed with your air as the water vapor condenses as it expands and cools.
Interesting. I've used portable compressors, for the most part, and haven't had any issues. Yes, there is moisture in the hose sometimes but it hasn't caused any problems yet. I don't paint though and don't intend to. My intention was too just mount hose reel right above the compressor and just use whatever I needed to connect it to the compressor. I could install some pipe though. What is the minimum generally needed?
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2011, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warhammer
Interesting.... What is the minimum generally needed?
You don't have to run pipe to remove the water. But, it really helps and saves your tools. Run as much as you feel comfortable with. The larger the compressor the more you should run because it is the compressing of the air that causes the moisture as it expands through the pipes and rusts out the innards of your tools or comes out in the spray of your paint guns or the exhaust of your tools.

Take your compressor run a air gun and spray into a jar for 10 minutes or so and see how moist it is in. Might be a good test to prove we are correct. I am sure someone has a better proof test.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 03:21 AM
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First off great thread! Lots of good info

Came across this thread doing my usual random google searches on air compressors. I have been putting buying one off for the past year or so, and I think it's time to finally drop some cash on one.

Here is a bit of info on my intentional use with a air compressor.
I plan to get a compressor for home use only- Garage mounted-no bigger then 60gal- Residential neighborhood- I have a old retried couple across the street and a Asian family next door that seems to run a day care for mentally disable adults so someone is always home at these two locations.

So noise is kind of a concern, but also not really lol. I do a bit of woodworking and work with my router table outside on the side of the house and it gets pretty loud at times. But haven't had anyone complain yet for the few years Ive lived here. I usually only work on projects during respective daytime hours on weekends.

With that being said I have a slight concern with how loud the HarborFreight compressor actually is since I have read its pretty loud. But with a compressor it would be mounted in the garage. Usually the big door would be closed and I would just use a air hose to go all the way out to the side of the house where I would do the sanding etc. So I'm thinking with the compressor in the garage and all doors shut except for the one with the hose coming out of, the noise may be bearable.

My main goal was to buy a compressor that can handle running a DA(not continuous working hours, I'll usually sand on one thing while something else is curing or drying, then trade off back and forth). Would also like to run a few decent guns, one to spray contact cement for wrapping interior parts and one to spray high build primer when bodyworking on fiberglass projects. Then a nailer/staple gun, as well as light air saw use to quickly shape/cut down expanding foam. Light angle grinder work and air ratchet/impact wrench.

However now I'm wanting to dabble a bit in automotive painting so now I will need something that can hand a DA and Guns good when painting. I think I will start off practicing on small parts like a fender or something then eventually a whole car. A little BC/CC then hopefully some pearls/kandies. I have the perfect candidate right now for a practice vehicle so I can't wait.

I would choose my compressor based on the tools I have, but I don't have any air tools what-so-ever currently. I'm looking for something that could handle just about any tool I throw at it.

Currently have my eye on the following. Would like to keep it under $1000 but I may be willing to spend a little more.

5 Horsepower, 60 Gallon, 165 PSI Two Stage Air Compressor ($799.99) Total $888.94 with shipping and tax (no warranty with harborfreight I assume)
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-hp-60...sor-93274.html

Quincy Single-Stage Air Compressor 3.5 HP, 60-Gallon ($719.99) Total of 969.84 with shipping(no CA tax applied via Northern Tool)
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9713_200479713

This one here would hit the pockets hard, but I'm sure it would be a good investment and would last many, many, many years to come. However I'm not sure if thats practical right now.

Quincy Compressor Reciprocating Air Compressor 5 HP, 230 Volt Single Phase ($1,399.99)Total of $1,400 shipped, no tax and free shipping via nothern tool)
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0475_200350475

Puma Belt-Drive Stationary Vertical Air Compressor 60-Gallon Vertical, 3 HP, 12 CFM ($529.99) Total of $770.46 with shipping(no CA sale tax) via nothern tool
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5341_200455341

Figured any of these would be better then the 60Gal CH one I was going to get at lowes. This one http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...essor/p89.html except its $480 at lowes.
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rell
(no warranty with harborfreight I assume)
HF does have a warranty plan. You buy it when you check out and they really push it. I recommend it on anything of this substance. It is based on the price. They even have said to me tor return it when the warranty almost expire. You can also use it to get the smaller compressor and then upgrade later to the larger one. They even tell you that.

What I am looking at is changing the motors on the tank I have to these.

Sale: $149.99 3 Horsepower Compressor Duty Motor http://www.harborfreight.com/145-psi...ump-67697.html
Sale: $139.99 145 PSI 3 Horsepower Twin Cylinder Air Compressor Pump http://www.harborfreight.com/145-psi...ump-67697.html

289.98
72.50 25% off New Years Day Coupon
______
$215.48 and one hell of a compressor/bomb.
$100 to build an out building far enough away from the garage that the explosion wont take out the house.

Last edited by eastsidebuzz; 12-28-2011 at 10:44 PM.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 11:15 PM
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I do wonder how it will preform when I have only 3hp Motor on it instead of a 5. I cant find a cheap 5hp motor to replace the 5hp 3phase it has now. It is cheaper to switch it all to 3hp from HF then it is to buy a 5hp one.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 08:24 AM
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I think I've settled on the Puma you have listed, but from a local dealer whom I have discovered a connection with. I can get a supper deal on it, so it's hard to pass up. But if I had intentions of running a DA sander and/or paint guns very much, I'd probably step up to a 2 stage. Obviously that $1400 Quincy would be great, it's 15.4 CFM @ 100 PSI, 2 stage, and 100% duty cycle. It's the best one on your list by far, but I'm not sure it's worth the difference in cost to you or not. It's on sell for $1299 today, btw.

You might also look at the Puma PK560VS. It has a higher CFM than any on your list and reasonably priced. It's neither a 2 stage nor 100% duty cycle though.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 01:57 PM
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So I thought I had this all worked out. I get the compressor for 75 bucks spend 200 more on replacement motors and pumps and change it out. Since I don't have 3 phase power.

Now when talked with him and told him my plan he said I have a solution for that I will throw in a "phase adder". So now I don't know what a "Phase Adder" is exactly. But, he swears by that 3 phase motor that it works great and if I can keep it it works great. We pulled the plugs and looked into the tank and it is dry and rust free and this thing weighs a ton. Literately. It is very heavy gauge steel http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=56019

Anyone ever used a "Phase Adder" is it going to consume a % of power that will make it not worth it.
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2011, 02:38 PM
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That's a phase converter not a phase "adder" and whether it will work or not depends on what type it is. A static phase converter is just a box that wires into the circuit and allows the motor to run but it will produce only 2/3 of it's rated power so your 3 HP motor becomes only 2 HP, these don't work well with compressor duty anyway. The rotary type converters use a large capacitor pack and another "idler" motor of equal or greater power rating and this type should work ok since they will allow full power and take the repeated start loads but as expensive as they are it's not likely he is going to throw in one of those for free, a static converter for a 3 HP motor costs about $100 to $150 while the rotary type is around $800 to $1000 plus there is a big demand for used ones. If he is indeed going to throw in a rotary type converter and it is in working order it would be worth far more than the compressor so that would be a good deal but if he is talking about the cheap static type converter it's not going to work.
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