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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastsidebuzz
I have gotten allot of education on compressors the last few days. Glad I found this forum (thanks oldred) and a few others off of posts in this fourm. These are some of the ones I found especially helpful outside of here.


http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=90894



Be careful here, I checked out that site and IMO that thread contains some terrible advice, most is good but a lot of it is just plain wrong!
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastsidebuzz

I am also still thinking of the Quincy at $1399 http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0475_200350475
That's the same unit I was being quoted for:
For my second call I found a Quincy, a bit less money (~200) with a 1399 RPM motor and 16.2 CFM at 175 but only a 60 gallon tank:
Quincy Compressor Model QT54-5-60V Reciprocating Air Compressor rated at 16.2 ACFM at 175 PSIG


That unit (the QT-54) is also known as 2V41C60VC. Quality and quiet unit based on the reviews. I have to say, I'm getting tired over thinking this and oldred has convinced me of the risks. The Quincy seems to be a great value for the money and I can get it supported locally. Its also slightly cheaper here:

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...ssor/p855.html
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 03:15 PM
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By the way, the specs the guy gave me on the phone for the QT-54 are wrong. It is the same unit:

http://www.mesaequipment.com/Html/Pr...incy/qt54.html

W-A-I-T NEVERMIND, proven myself wrong again. There are multiple units. The more expensive one I've been quoted runs at slower RPMs which must be quieter and is slightly more powerful.

So the 2V41C60VC must be actually the QTV-54-60E running at higher RPMs and slightly less power and CFM than the QTV-54-60.

Why do they make it so complicated....

Last edited by ToddMcF2002; 04-16-2011 at 03:21 PM.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 03:47 PM
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Todd, becasue if it were easy we would all figure out that the HD is junk.

I am 99% sure I going to go with the HF one. I will drive the 200 miles to Portland so I can save the 80 in taxes though. (need to go for work anyway)

It is sure hard to spend the other 6 Franklins right now. I am sure I will need something else with I get this thing. I think the HF will be a great place holder for a Quincy in the future. I am not doing any kind of auto repair just building bee hives and general wood shop use. Like I said I have learned allot but, am over thinking my needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Be careful here, I checked out that site and IMO that thread contains some terrible advice, most is good but a lot of it is just plain wrong!
So do you think that whole air cooling system with pipes running up an an angle with drains everywhere is needed for general wood working?
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eastsidebuzz
So do you think that whole air cooling system with pipes running up an an angle with drains everywhere is needed for general wood working?


Yes you certainly do need a good pipping system with the proper drains and there are several good configurations to fit your particular situation. This has been discussed in detail in several threads here so a search might bring up some info you might have missed. When I said there was some bad advice in that thread I did not mean all of it, actually most was right on, what I was referring to was mostly for compressor selection. Mostly it was such things as look for the biggest tank, etc and a couple of other compressor errors.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 05:25 PM
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Harbor fright

Hey eastside, HF has discontinued their air driers. It is normally about 36$. I picked one up for 8$. They only had one left when I bought it. The desicant can be regenerated and you can get extra packs at their store. I don't know how well the drier works but for eight dollars I'll try it.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 06:22 PM
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omg, you people hurt my head. I think you should read over the thread again.

I'd like to state my opinion though that I don't think Belaire makes these compressors and rebadges them, I think someone makes them and sells them to both stores. I believe ABAC/IMC.. But that might just be a different company name for Belaire as they are mentioned a lot on the website.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Yes you certainly do need a good pipping system with the proper drains and there are several good configurations to fit your particular situation. This has been discussed in detail in several threads here so a search might bring up some info you might have missed. When I said there was some bad advice in that thread I did not mean all of it, actually most was right on, what I was referring to was mostly for compressor selection. Mostly it was such things as look for the biggest tank, etc and a couple of other compressor errors.
So oldred, would you go black pipe or copper soldered? I can't braze so if you recommend braze I'm back to black pipe
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyK81
I'd like to state my opinion though that I don't think Belaire makes these compressors and rebadges them, I think someone makes them and sells them to both stores. I believe ABAC/IMC. But that might just be a different company name for Belaire as they are mentioned a lot on the website.

That link I provided was not to Belaire but to an outfit that sells Bellaire, Belaire compressors are built in South Carolina-including the tanks. The pump however, as has been mentioned several times, is from Italy and it is very good quality so it should not be compared to Chinese pumps.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002
So oldred, would you go black pipe or copper soldered? I can't braze so if you recommend braze I'm back to black pipe
I know you specifically didnt' ask me, but I'd go with copper. It's quick, it's easy (You don't have to braze, just solder. CLean them up, apply flux, heat with propane, apply solder, capillary action will take care of the rest). It transfers heat efficiently and quickly, and you can use type M for home use.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2011, 10:40 PM
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Many different opinions on this but IMHO Copper is the best way to go, ease of installation, no worry about rust or flaking (if that actually is a problem with iron or galvanized).

One of those links in an earlier post said not to use Copper and even warned it was dangerous because fittings tend to blow apart, my opinion on that is that it is 100% USDA certified BS-but then that is just my opinion! I have used and seen used a heck of a lot of Copper in the last 30 or so years and without doubt it has been the most trouble free of the three common types of pipe normally used for this purpose. Some prefer Black iron and I certainly can not argue with the reasoning since Iron is an excellent choice as is galvanized, or at least the older galvanized as I am uncertain about the newer Chinese stuff. Rust in iron pipe and flaking with galvanized pipe are often quoted as problems but I can honestly say I have never seen it to be a problem, sure it happens but in such small amounts that it usually is not a problem since no matter what pipe material is used the air still must be filtered. For shorter runs Copper has a cooling advantage but after 50 feet or so that is mostly a toss-up with iron pipe so the decision really should be based what a person feels comfortable working with and of course the cost.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyK81
omg, you people hurt my head. I think you should read over the thread again.

I believe ABAC/IMC.. But that might just be a different company name for Belaire as they are mentioned a lot on the website.
That is what we have decided that HF has usa made ones. As long as it is a good compressor and will last me a couple years I am good. It is way more then I have so I am sure it will work and do a good job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Many different opinions on this but IMHO Copper is the best way to go, ease of installation, no worry about rust or flaking (if that actually is a problem with iron or galvanized).
I am thinking Copper would be the easiest. I am good with soldering copper. Just expensive as heck, not sure if the black pipe cheaper but, having to use wrenches is a pain in the tush and if it leaks then you cant cut it easily and re-solder.

Last edited by eastsidebuzz; 04-17-2011 at 12:09 AM.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 01:10 AM
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I used black iron for no real reason. If I were to do it again, I would do copper.. rolls and rolls of teflon tape. after fighting multiple leaks, I got real good at putting it on and a few leaks still exist, but I'm not bothering with them. the compressor keeps up to what I need
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the copper answers everyone. I heard soldering was only good to 60psi and I'm guessing that is a bit of BS? That was my only hesitation in regards to my brazing question. I'll go with consensus here over that one reference I read.

As far as diameter, should I just stick with the tank outlet and go 3/4 for the whole system?
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002
I heard soldering was only good to 60psi


You heard wrong! Heck some water systems have more pressure than that.
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