[eastsidebuzz]

Originally Posted by JohnnyK81

I know you specifically didnt' ask me, but I'd go with copper. It's quick, it's easy (You don't have to braze, just solder. CLean them up, apply flux, heat with propane, apply solder, capillary action will take care of the rest). It transfers heat efficiently and quickly, and you can use type M for home use.

Check out this site on copper.
http://www.copper.org/applications/p.../download.html Table 3c is the all the pressures for copper.

Type M is the thinnest wall tubing.
Type L is the medium wall thickness
And Type K is the thickest wall and much harder to find.

From what I have read Type M should work just fine, I think I read the bursting pressure is around 300 psi.

You will only save $50 or so running an M system, so just go with L. M always has red lettering on it and L is always blue.

When you terminate the tube, use what is called drop ear 90's. They have ears on them with holes for securing to the walls.

From the Copper tube document it says brazed joints will handle 200 psi at 100 degree's. So in the heat of the summer 200. So I think we are good at 175 for quite a while until global warming heats us up.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by eastsidebuzz

From what I have read Type M should work just fine, I think I read the bursting pressure is around 300 psi.

The working and burst pressures are different for different diameters, the larger the tube within a class the lower the pressure rating. No matter however since no one is going to comer even close to the burst pressure with a normal air system.



DON'T DO THIS!!!!! But I have actually seen copper pipe used for hydraulic line where the pressures exceeded the ratings by more than 400% and that little tractor has been using those lines for nearly 20 years now.

I won't tell you who's tractor it is on!

[ToddMcF2002]

All good to hear I guess copper it is. So 3/4 for a single bay garage and ~35 feet of pipe sound OK? I suppose I can go 50 by adding extra paths but I was going to shoot for around 35.

[eastsidebuzz]

Some more links for discussions of it.

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas..._Woodshop.html

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/airpiping.shtml

[JohnnyK81]

I am using 3/4" rubber out of the HF compressor. It then attached to 1/2" copper right at the wall. I'm only using 1 tool at a time so no problems with 1/2" for me. Plus it's just going around 2 walls of the garage.

I'm just using your standard plumbing solder, and it's doing just fine at 165 PSI, although I do have it dialed down to 140 after a couple turns on the wall. And this is type M.

[ToddMcF2002]

I bought a ton of 3/4 copper yesterday, some $300 worth. This should be a fun project

[rusobr2]

i have the "quincy 350-375" , and i'v had it for almost 40 yrs. !! i have always ran it on a 5 hp single phase @ 1750 rpm ! (about 25 cfm @ 100)comp mtr is at 900 rpm
it had rings,and some valve work done about 10 yrs. ago,and i'm on my 3rd elec. motor-- over the yrs. the 5 hp. motors have gone from 200 to about 325.00 (1750 ind. type)
the thing about the quincy "350-375" is you can run any motor from 3 hp to 40 hp.depd. on how much air you need .
**note** it makes no difference how big your storage tank is(60,80,or120) if you take 10 lbs. of air out of it --it's going to turn on--this type of compressor motor also can run on 100 % duty cycle--in other words it can run 24/7 !! any compressor that runs on 3600 rpm only has a 50 % duty cycle,and if it runs all day trying to stay up ----it will burn up in short time !
**i don't work for "quincy" or have any affiliation with them**
this is only my opinion......steven

[Bioman54]

Originally Posted by eastsidebuzz

Now if you really want the Cadillac of compressors. This one is sweet at 22.6 at 175. So they must be close to 30 at 90. Shipping is probably a couple hundred. Might be overkill for me. Unless I make some extra at the craps table and splurge.

Quincy Compressor Model QT7.5-7.5-80V Reciprocating Air Compressor rated at 22.6 ACFM at 175 PSIG
MSRP: $3,001.00
Price: $1,871.00

Quincy Compressor Model QT7.5-7.5-80V Simplex Reciprocating Air Compressor rated at 22.6 ACFM at 175 PSIG. The Tank Mount Unit is built on a 80 gallon tank and powered by a 7.5 hp, 230/1/60 or 208/230/460, ODP, efficiency motor, the operating at 1026 rpm http://www.quincypistonaircompressor...mpressors.aspx

Just an FYI, the pricing looked too good to be true so I called them. This is actually Compressor World and they say that this link is to an old website they cant get rid of They told me they are not honoring those prices.

[eastsidebuzz]

Nice, good to see the old bait and switch is still in action out there. That was to rich for my blood anyway. I think the HF one is they way I will be going for now. Need to align the check book though with the purchase. This month was bee boxes and packages so 3k for that has me waiting.

[oldred]

Originally Posted by rusobr2

i have the "quincy 350-375" , and i'v had it for almost 40 yrs.

You have a lot of company and not only is my Quincy also over 40 years old but I know of several more that are either that old or well on the way!

You also made an excellent point about CFM vs tank size and I and a few others here have tried forever to make this point but just like today in another thread someone claiming to be an expert will come along and contradict it. As you point out it is a bigger pump with enough power to run it that makes a bigger compressor not the size of the stinkin tank!

[rusobr2]

"eastsidebuzz" just to let you know--your right ! the pricing has gone up a big punch !! i did a little checking this morning, and for the buck--this is an awesome setup............. but only if the checkbook can standup to it--my problem , is everything i have in my home shop is air, and with that ---no air --no worky--
if you get a moment check this out
http://www.amazon.com/Quincy-Compres.../dp/B0012GOMJG

steven

[ToddMcF2002]

Quick question on the Quincy qT54-5-60: my local sales / service guy wants to sell me a magnetic starter with this unit. I was under the impression that this unit didn't need it? I confess I know nothing about magnetic vs. capacitor starters or the longevity impact. I probably won't understand the explaination either so please give me the "for dummies" version!

Any help would be appreciated. The starter is $260 and the unit is $1300 delivered and placed in my garage on the palette.

Thanks as always!

[302 Z28]

Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002

Quick question on the Quincy qT54-5-60: my local sales / service guy wants to sell me a magnetic starter with this unit. I was under the impression that this unit didn't need it? I confess I know nothing about magnetic vs. capacitor starters or the longevity impact. I probably won't understand the explaination either so please give me the "for dummies" version!

Any help would be appreciated. The starter is $260 and the unit is $1300 delivered and placed in my garage on the palette.

Thanks as always!

That compressor as run on single phase does not need a magnetic starter, it is only a 5hp unit which will run just fine from the proper plug and receptacle. If you are going with the 230/460 volt 3 phase unit I would advise you to use the magnetic starter.

Vince

[JohnnyK81]

? A magnetic starter is just a relay meant to take away the starting duties from the pressure switch. You can have one wired with a plug and receptacle.. Not sure what you meant with that.

I have a 5hp compressor without one.. Ideally I'd have one, but perhaps my pressure switch will just burn out in a bit. No biggie, I say.

[rusobr2]

ToddMcF2002 -- ya - vince pretty much summed it up for ya --added attraction, and w/ single phase--whats the point ? not only that , but now your 1300 dollar comp. is getting closer to 2000 then 1000 !! in all the yrs. i'v owned the quincy + three ele. motors-- i'v never changed a capacitor......

my opinion only.....steven