[MRGM]

Just wanted to know your thoughts on this pipe layout for this compressor. Will be using 3/4" black iron. (I would go with galvanized pipe but the places around here are out every single damn day) Will be using the same in material for joints. Got some brass valves rated at 600psi (think thats typical.) Do you use the regular brass fittings for this. I just need to find the flex.

When i connect the elbows and such, will i just need to put some of the piping tape on it, or will i need to put something else? Ive never piped a compressor before, so let me know if Im just being a knuckle head. My brother does all the painting, all the shops hes worked in never had him do this kinda stuff, so we are both new to this. Im just treating it like i would a compressed gas line.

We've been working on this Land Cruiser, and we getting ready to paint. Im kinda excited about the whole thing. This will be the first vehicle we do, hope it comes out nice.

compressor - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32357

[MRGM]

you may need to save link to disk before you can view the thing, do not know what went wrong with it.

[Beenaway2long]

I think you'll be happier with a 2 stage compressor. Also, invest some time to research the air requirements of your spraying equipment. And check what air fitting you need. The H/F fittings are junk IMO. I've replaced every one of them so far.

[MRGM]

The compressor I already have. Some of these lines are temp, and will be changed after this landcruiser.

I have heard good things about the HF guns

get me straight

[Kevin45]

If you are at all going into this with all seriousness, spend a couple of hundred more and get a two stage. You will be much happier in the longrun. It will run less, pump up faster, and run cooler. A single stage cycles on and off so often and it will run hot. When it does it builds up considerable moisture. So a water / moisture trap is a definate must. I have a single stage compressor, can drain the tank, run it for a little while and water will come out of the air tools. That is not a good thing at all. I have yet to get the proper piping up but that will be a little later this year. Too many irons in the fire right at the moment. If you get a chance take a look in my photo album and I have a couple of layouts for piping runs and moisture traps Invest a little more in the beginning if the funds are available and be happy for years to come.

Kevin

[daimon1054]

With the humitity in the air here I can fill up a dryer in about 20 min of rinning the compressor so if your going to paint make sure you use a good dryer near the compressor then another near the outlet.

[MRGM]

here in texas doesn't get that humide. do you think ill need two? I hope the single stage will handle it for a little while till the landcruiser gets done. i have about 60' of pipe to cool the air with some drains in between, i hope that will be suficient.

Iv got this filter to put at the end...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=1118

what do you think., good/no

[iiibdsiil]

I have seen people use Schedule 40 PVC piping for these jobs too. At a couple shops. I think it is rated to at least 300 PSI, so I would think it would be safe. I want to do something like this eventually, but, waiting on a definite answer on the schedule 40 piping.

[MRGM]

well i got the sch 40 black iron pipe hung yesterday. All i lack is put the filter and dryer on (as soon as i find a dryer). I had to order a 12" piece of flex from the compressor to the main line. Its going to cost me $46 for that son of a gun.
but i guess i need for the vibration. going to get some vibration isolators today. i hope.

my manual specifically states not to use pvc. and the persons at Lowe's and home depot said do not use it. so id stick away from it.

i hope to get some pics of the piping up soon.

kevin, i used those layouts when i did my little installation...

[Kevin45]

Lets see of pic of the actual piping. Glad you got it up.

[Dave Carney]

Originally posted by iiibdsiil
I have seen people use Schedule 40 PVC piping for these jobs too. At a couple shops. I think it is rated to at least 300 PSI, so I would think it would be safe. I want to do something like this eventually, but, waiting on a definite answer on the schedule 40 piping.

I think the problem with the PVC is not so much at what point it will burst under pressure, but what happens to it when you run something into it, under pressure or not. It breaks too easily.

[willys36@aol.com]

Ditto on the two stage compressor. They are better for so many reasons that it isn't even a close call.

Iron pipe and brass valves is great. I used PVC on my system and it has done great for the last 10 years. Cross my fingers!! Using iron, I would recommend good old pipe dope instead of tape. Tape is great on precision tubing fittings but for iron pipe I have been frustrated trying to get consistent leak free joints. Pipe dope never misses! That HF liquid separator works fine at the end of the line. For sure put one at the outlet to your spray paint gun! Run your main 1" loop around the ceiling then take your side branches off the TOP of the main line - don't succumb to the temptation to take the side branches off the bottom of the line. At the ends of the main line, take a side branches off the BOTTOM of the line and have them dump into condensate collecting tanks (3" pipe w/ ends welded on) with drain valves on the bottom. This scheme will eliminate most of the condensate that gets into the distribution system.

Unfortunately, HF quick disconnect fittings are not very good (can't believe I am saying a bad thing about HF!). Buy quality ones at a hydraulics supply store. They are a little pricey but you don't need vary many and good ones are worth the price.

[35prog]

Lots of good points here, one of the keys to getting rid of the moisture is a to cool the air prior to it getting to the dryer/moisture trap. I have a sure fire method to insure that you eliminate any moisture when it comes time to paint. You will need to buy an extra hose and fittings to connect it, also a cooler ( I use a 48 quart size now, but used a 5 galon pale first few times). I mounted the the dryer/moisture trap right to the side of the cooler and drilled a 1 inch hole in each end, then coil the hose inside the cooler, add a bag of ice, beer of choice (optional), and taha- daha a poor mans refrigerated dryer. I let my moisture trap seep air from the drain **** at all times. On the subject of useing black pipe I will say this, I had an air compressor which got tired and started to blow by some oil, by time we realized the problem, because of fisheyes. We had all the lines in the shop contaminated and black pipe will rust on the inside which will act like a sponge for moisture and contamination. We sweated in copper line after replacing compressor and problem solved. I know the cost of copper is way higher than black pipe, but way cheaper than redos on paint jobs.

[willys36@aol.com]

Originally posted by 35prog
We had all the lines in the shop contaminated and black pipe will rust on the inside which will act like a sponge for moisture and contamination.

Good point I forgot to mention. They galvanize iron pipe for a reason! Don't use black iorn pipe. Wet air is very corrosive and you will have rust out the gazoo. Use galvanized, copper, or PVC.

[MRGM]

i tried to get the galvanized, but everywhere i went (for two weeks, everyday) they were out and did not know when they would be getting anymore. so i decided that black pipe would be the way to go...for now. i will change it to galv when i do the permanent piping, probably reuse the black iron for gas line.

that cooler idea sound like a neat idea. will def see if i can try that.