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Old 02-04-2005, 07:17 AM
Beenaway2long's Avatar
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Confused......

I am in the process of bringing a 39 chevy 2dr sedan back to life. Some pics are in the Journal. I have the new cowl supports, outer cowls, front section of the floorboards and firewall welded into place. By this weekend, I should have the new dash in.

Here's he dillema. Most of this metal is bare. I really don't want to go through the hassle of mixing epoxy to spray this, if I can avoid it. I DETEST cleaning the spray gun. Seems like it takes 1.5 hours to do it, and never seems to come 100% clean. (I must be doing something wrong?) Can I get away with etch-priming it? Napa sells rattle cans of etchprime, which I really like. I've had great luck with it.
If I can do the etchprime in a can, how long before I HAVE to topcoat it, being that its in my shop, out of the weather. Will it absorb moisture to the point it will affect the paint? Or should I topcoat with rattlecans since it will be completely covered anyways? Again, trusting me with a spraygun is a sure recipe for a ruined afternoon.




Any suggestions for faster gun cleaning?
I wipe out the cup, add some thinner to cup and shoot it through the gun. Remove it from the gun, rewipe the cup. Take the fan/nozzle apart and brush it out, soak them in thinner, brush them and blow it out with compressed air. Seems like its an eternity...
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:31 AM
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Doing a good cleanup and keeping your spray guns is just part of the job..............especially with catalysed paints.

Do you have a primer only gun? I am not nearly as fussy with my primer gun as my top coating gum. I find that spraying some laquer thinner through it after use is usually enough. Also, I take the tip off and toss it in the cup with the thinner and store it that way.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:40 AM
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Most of the pros - at least on this board seem to favor epoxy over etch primers. Having used both I think I agree with them. If you must use an etch primer you should be OK as long as the car stays inside and isn't exposed to the weather. I primed the body of my 41 with DP 90 etch primer and it sat in my garage for over 4 years before I got around to painting and I had no problems at all with it. Just make sure you scuff it really good before painting and I'd use a sealer as well once your ready to paint. Some of our pros may have a different opinion or suggestion though.


Quote:
Originally posted by poncho62
Doing a good cleanup and keeping your spray guns is just part of the job..............especially with catalysed paints.

Do you have a primer only gun? I am not nearly as fussy with my primer gun as my top coating gum. I find that spraying some laquer thinner through it after use is usually enough. Also, I take the tip off and toss it in the cup with the thinner and store it that way.
I do pretty much the same thing. I take the tip and needle off and stick them in a tupperware bowl filled with lacquer thinner and then just take the gun (less the cup) and submerse it as well. Wipe everything clean with paper towels, blow air through everything then reassemble. Put some lacquer thinner in the cup and spray it through the gun. Works very well and only takes about 10 minutes to do.

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Old 02-04-2005, 07:41 AM
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Are you doing something wrong? Yes, if it takes you an hour and a half to clean the gun.

A few minutes running lacquer thinner thru it is all it takes. If it is a dedicated primer gun there is no need to remove the air cap and nozzle. JUST the air cap, ok, but you really shouldn't be removing the nozzle unless you are pulling the gun apart for a super thorough cleaning. That is just not needed unless you are going to shoot color or clear thru it.

PLEASE do not rattle can etch (it isn't even a real etch) that fine old car.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:41 AM
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I wouldn't use the rattle can stuff, it's not nearly as good as the two component spray gun variety. Real self etch primers contain acid-- it is illegal to package an acid in an aresol. Buy a cheapy dedicated primer gun, mine usually takes about five minutes to clean and I usually do a teardown every couple of months for a thorough cleaning.
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Old 02-04-2005, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MARTINSR


PLEASE do not rattle can etch (it isn't even a real etch) that fine old car. [/B]
******************************************
These etch cans don't and can't have an acid in them unless its a bladder can. If you did find one it would be expensive.

Yea! I know they all say its acid etch but acid will not stay in a metal can for long.
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Old 02-04-2005, 10:30 AM
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While on the can discussion.

Could one of the expert's tell me about the U-Poll acid etch spray can primer's?

It seem's to be a really good product and has a distinctive "acid"
smell to it as it's drying.

I agree,I hate to see time wasted on a fine car using spray can stuff. I use the above for spot and touch up and have had great results with it.

If you don't paint on a regular basis,I'd pull the gun apart and clean it after use. Yeah it's a PIA but so is redoing the next project because crap in the gun from the previous job screwed your hard prep work. What's that worth???

I wouldn't soak the WHOLE gun in solvent.

After running thinner thru.I pour a few oz.'s in the cup for storage on my gravity feed's.
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Old 02-04-2005, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bee4Me
While on the can discussion.

Could one of the expert's tell me about the U-Poll acid etch spray can primer's?

It seem's to be a really good product and has a distinctive "acid"
smell to it as it's dryin.
*******************************************

One way to find out is cut an empty can in half and see if its lined.
If not its just a smell additive. There are company's by the way all they do is make perfumes for products.
You can make clear smell like bananas if you want.

One guy adds a shunk additive to his clear and says its because all the great things he adds. Now if you don't like the smell he will sell you a neutralizer to add, that will kill the smell.
How to make money!
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Old 02-04-2005, 11:42 AM
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Is anyone familiar with the NAPA Etchprime in the can? Thats what I have used on non automotive applications. Stuff like treestands and other things I have fabbed up. Worked great.

You guys have shamed me into buying some 2 part epoxy and another gun.
Is it all the same? Meaning,,,,,can I just get it the Napa paint store, or should I go to a PPG supplier for it? Any problems with using a PPG over M/S epoxy? I know not to mix manufacturers once you begin with high build primer & colorcoats , but seems to me that cured epoxy would be inert, and not cause a problem.


What say'eth the jurors?
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Old 02-04-2005, 12:50 PM
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I was thinking more "Chocolate" or
"Fresh Ground Coffee"

Get the point though BarrK. I'll cut it open and see.

Whatever the case, It still seems to be a good product.

Good Man Beenaway2long. I'll let the experts answer the paint question.
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Old 02-04-2005, 02:37 PM
Beenaway2long's Avatar
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Just got back from Napa.

NO ACID!!

Give that man a beer!

Also looked at the tech sheets for the epoxy. Said to topcoat with M/S paint only. My painter is a PPG guy. So, I'm going to go across town to grab PPG's epoxy.

That made THAT easy !


Thanks guys!


Jeff
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Old 02-04-2005, 02:44 PM
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The PPG would have worked great over the MS epoxy!

You really didn't expect MS to say use Dupont or PPG over it did you?

The MS is a pretty good epoxy compared to a lot of them in this business.
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