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control arm bushings: poly/rubber or metal.
with rubber for stock/street, poly for firmer but there is a binding issues, and solid for racing. i was leaning towards the poly cause i like firmer feel, but i don't want binding issues. think new rubber is the way to go? i'm not racing this 72 camaro ss. maybe an autocross. but taking control arms apart aint easy, stock control arms should be okay si'?
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Use a poly/graphite bushing. This is one site that carries them...
http://www.p-s-t.com/gm/gmcatalog.html They're firm like a straight poly but the graphite adds some self lube properties to keep squeaking down. I have never had a problem with poly bushings squeaking but some people say they do... Mark |
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i'm really not worried about squeeking, just the so-called "binding" issue i have read alot of people at a camaro site beeotch about.
what cars have you run poly control arm bushings in? Last edited by bullheimer; 03-24-2005 at 08:56 AM. |
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If you are goint to put poly bushings in you should put grease zerks on them and keep them greased up. They WILL bind if you don't (even the graphite ones). On the upper front control arms on my s10 (with poly graphite bushings) you can see the cross shaft start to twist before the bushing will move
I call that bind!!! I won't put poly in again w/o a zerk and will have to think hard about it even then.I have heard Moog makes some hi-durameter rubber bushings. That is what I am going to try next in my s10. I have heard that if you buy camaro 1LE (the factory racing package that started in about '90) bushings FROM A DEALER they will be high durameter. I don't know if these bushings will fit your car. You have to get them from a dealer! The parts store ones will be softer. I'm not sure on the difference between the Moog and 1LE? |
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I used poly. all through my 69 chevelle conv. I will never do that again. Way to solid for the street. After the power cruise last year I was going to change them out, but have been in and out of the hosp. so much I haven't had time, I hope I can get it done this spring.
Troy |
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Quote:
I have used them in a early 80's Monte, mid 80's Regal T-type, early 70's Nova and a early 70's Elcamino. |
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thanks guys. i think i'll just go with rubber moog stuff. then i can use the stock control arms anyway. troy-curt, STAY OUT OF THE HOSPITAL!
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Quote:
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yes, that's true.
but i found a guy who makes cotnrol arms and the solid bushings that go in them. he has used them for 70,000 miles now. he says they are the bomb. just a bit more road noise. only $230 for the control arms themselves. which i thought was a great deal if i was going to race. http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/ i think i'll just do the rubber tho. i have just heard way to many complaints on the polys for street driving on the control arms. i gotta bust a move here quick tho. im rrebuilding the whole front end. even with moog, if i were to replace everything i'm looking at over $400 which seems way too much, i probably should not replace everything (like all the tie rod ends for one) but just the bushings and ball joints. maybe the springs. how do you tell if the springs should go? i see so many people just cutting them to lower them. how come the cut off end doesn't slip out? springs are like $50 each. i went to www.speedway.com and found Bilsteins shocks for only $65 ea. too. i hate how damned confused i get from having too many options, but it's a common human trait. should i replace the control arm shafts too? |
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I would not use solid bushings on a street driven vehicle. I have used urethane on a few street cars, I don't feel that they are obnoxious but I like the tighter/firmer feel. Everyone has there own opinion, I don't hesitate to use them.
For your front end rebuild go with what you can afford, I only use quality parts. I am not looking to save a few dollars on Chinese made parts. When I do a front end rebuild I replace everything (as in parts that wear), I want to start with all new parts so I don't have to touch it again except for maintenance (grease). Cut springs will not slip out, unless you were to cut them really short. In general 1 full coil off of the top of the spring will get you about 2" of drop. Bilstein makes a great shock. Do a search online you may find them a little cheaper than $65 ea. |
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alrighty then!
rubbers for everyone! lets party. okay maybe not. got my bomb up on jack stands. all my tie rod ends are great. my sway bar bushings are shot. going to use poly on them. skinny sway bar means stiffer springs. anything wrong with keeping the stock springs and just cutting a coil off them? my shocks look older than me! gonna get four bilsteins. my a-arm bushings are: shot rubber on the pass. side and nothing even visible on the drivers side! does that seem to mean there is a good possibility that i will have to replace the control arm shafts? i going to replace my bushings with rubber. also need wheel bearings. is there a cheap upgrade to my discs out there? i am going to get 15" wheels, so is there any point? lemme know! Last edited by bullheimer; 03-27-2005 at 05:20 PM. |
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