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Old 05-05-2010, 09:53 AM
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Control Arm Fabricating

I am making upper and lower control arms for my 41 Chrysler.

I am using 1" diameter for the uppers but I am not sure what is commonly used for the lowers.

Anyone know this?

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Old 05-06-2010, 09:13 AM
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I better rephrase the question.

Does anyone have a mustang II setup that they can measure the diameter of the lower control arm?
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Old 05-08-2010, 06:28 AM
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Are you using a strut bar as designed by ford or one one of the setups that looks like an a-frame?
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Old 05-08-2010, 07:53 AM
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I'm using 04 Cobra spindles.
Of coarse, I won't be using the struts though.
I've made up some breackets to install a ball joint on top.

I'll be using A arms with coilovers.
BBC for engine.
I'm using stainless for the arms and I have 1-1/4" diameter with a 1/8" wall thickness in stock.
I was thinking about using that.
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Old 05-08-2010, 11:29 AM
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I just measured the TCI's on my AVATAR car. The uppers are 1" the lowers are 1.125. No idea the wall thickness, but a guess would be .125. TCI uses Vega/Monza press in or full size Dodge screw in ball joints, depending on the type of IFS.

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Old 05-08-2010, 11:35 AM
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Perfect.

Thankyou.

The 1-1/4" should be just right then.
I've got 1" for the top with the Chrysler screw ins and I've got the Cobra press ins for the lowers.

Pugsy
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:19 AM
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Old 05-15-2010, 02:38 PM
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I am fitting my 37 Plymouth with a Fatman Mustang II
I decided to keep with OE mustang control arms instead of lower A arms.

I have read all the controversy regarding the use or lack of strut rods on the lower control arms.

My thought is this:
Is there any reason that you cannot attach a strut-rod to a lower a arm?
It seems like it would solve all the problems of stress on the crossmember.

Maybe something to look into if youre building your own control arms.
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Old 05-15-2010, 04:20 PM
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Did you read this thread - it's 13 pages long, but lots of opinions and good information:

IFS failure = tragic results


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Old 05-15-2010, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Deco
I am fitting my 37 Plymouth with a Fatman Mustang II
I decided to keep with OE mustang control arms instead of lower A arms.

I have read all the controversy regarding the use or lack of strut rods on the lower control arms.

My thought is this:
Is there any reason that you cannot attach a strut-rod to a lower a arm?
It seems like it would solve all the problems of stress on the crossmember.

Maybe something to look into if youre building your own control arms.

Only one reason not to add a strut rod is that i don't think I'll need it.
I may still beef up to 1-1/2" lower arms.

The connection point to the frame will get careful consideration.

When I get to it , it will be in my project journal.
I would like to hear all comments about anything anyone sees in my build that looks questionable.

Thanks,
Pugsy
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Old 05-15-2010, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Only one reason not to add a strut rod is that i don't think I'll need it.
I may still beef up to 1-1/2" lower arms.

The connection point to the frame will get careful consideration.

When I get to it , it will be in my project journal.
I would like to hear all comments about anything anyone sees in my build that looks questionable.

Thanks,
Pugsy

When you use the right bottom A-arm you don't have to use a strut rod... They used a strut rod on a stock mustang and pinto because the bottom wasn't a ''A-Arm at all ... It was a striate arm.. The mounting point at the cross member was very narrow... Then they made a real bottom ''A-arm'' then did a way with the strut rods... Yes they did have some fail.. But that was because of the poorly designed cross members... But when it is built right you don't have to worry.... There is million's of car running around with the right Bottom A-arms and cross member without failure.... But like I said... The a-arm and cross member ''Has'' to be right.. The key word here is ''triangulation''
Thats what a strut rod did for a Striate bottom a-arm.... I hope I have explained this where someone can Under stand what I'm trying to say here.. Some will still be hooked on the '' YOU HAVE TO HAVE A STRUT ROD THING'' Ya !!! OK !!! Pugsy !!!! Great job on the frame by the way !!!!
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:54 AM
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Thanks Randy.

Its coming along. I got the coilovers for the rear and will be starting a set of lower arms for the back soon.

Last edited by 123pugsy; 05-16-2010 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Deco
My thought is this:
Is there any reason that you cannot attach a strut-rod to a lower a arm?
It seems like it would solve all the problems of stress on the crossmember.

Maybe something to look into if youre building your own control arms.

Probably not a good idea, you would then have a 3 legged arm, and if you didn't get all 3 inner bushings exactly in line, they would bind..If you put a strut on an a arm, you might as well do away with the middle leg...

I have been making some lower A arms out of 1 1/4" x .125 wall tubing, not so much for the tubing strength, but for a bigger footprint on the welded area when the long tubes get joined to the bushing tubes.

I don't think I'd use stainless for the material, you need to be real careful about which stainless to use, otherwise they will be weaker than mild steel...There's a reason no one, (hardly no one?) makes fabricated SS arms.

New Interiors is right, triangulation is the key to making a proper lower a arm. The more spacing between the bushings, the stronger the attachment to the crossmember will be. There are also ways to brace up the outer ends of the attachment points, most aftermarket arms don't have anything more than an unsupported bolt sticking out there..The bolt failures the early Fatman front ends had was due to a less than good spread of the a arm at the bushed ends, and an inadequate bolt size and type...An added tab at the outside of each bushing would help alot.

Later, mikey
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Old 05-16-2010, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
Probably not a good idea, you would then have a 3 legged arm, and if you didn't get all 3 inner bushings exactly in line, they would bind..If you put a strut on an a arm, you might as well do away with the middle leg...

I have been making some lower A arms out of 1 1/4" x .125 wall tubing, not so much for the tubing strength, but for a bigger footprint on the welded area when the long tubes get joined to the bushing tubes.

I don't think I'd use stainless for the material, you need to be real careful about which stainless to use, otherwise they will be weaker than mild steel...There's a reason no one, (hardly no one?) makes fabricated SS arms.

New Interiors is right, triangulation is the key to making a proper lower a arm. The more spacing between the bushings, the stronger the attachment to the crossmember will be. There are also ways to brace up the outer ends of the attachment points, most aftermarket arms don't have anything more than an unsupported bolt sticking out there..The bolt failures the early Fatman front ends had was due to a less than good spread of the a arm at the bushed ends, and an inadequate bolt size and type...An added tab at the outside of each bushing would help alot.

Later, mikey


Thanks Mikey... You said it, just Like I was trying to say.. You have a better way of using this Computer then me..Thanks again..


When they made the pinto/mustang stock front ends They had the right Idea.. But later changed it to a real a-arm and made it the a-arm we have to day on Many front ends.. And like Mikey said, the spacing between the bushings is the key..

Last edited by NEW INTERIORS; 05-16-2010 at 10:34 AM.
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