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Old 08-11-2007, 12:28 PM
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Convert from generator to 10Si GM alternator

Hi....

I recently installed a new Lectric Limited wiring harness in my 1960 Corvette. This is an exact duplicate of the original Corvette wiring harness and uses a generator. However 20+ years ago I converted it over to an GM 3 wire alternator (10si) with internal voltage regulator.

Any suggestions on how to wire in the alternator?

Thanks muchly....

Ken

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Old 08-11-2007, 02:04 PM
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wiring

on the google web sight type in alternator wiring, you will find what you need
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Old 08-11-2007, 02:13 PM
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Doc here,



Here ya go..

Doc
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Old 08-11-2007, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sedan delivery
on the google web sight type in alternator wiring, you will find what you need

And I have been googling.... I turned up nothing useful so I posted here...
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Old 08-11-2007, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,



Here ya go..

Doc
Sorry Doc but that looks nothing like the wiring diagram I have for my 1960 Vette. For one thing my horn relay has three connectors. My voltage regulator has a 12 gauge red wire, 20 g blue, 14 g brown and a black ground wire. Your diagram even confuses me more....

Cheers

Ken
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Old 08-11-2007, 04:11 PM
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There are many 10si wiring diagrams out there, and the one Doc posted is a very common solution.

Maybe it will help if you understand the basic reason for each connection:
BAT terminal (threaded post on the back of alternator) - This charge wire should be connected as directly as possible to the battery, using a fusible link for protection. A 10 gauge wire with 14 gauge fusible link will work for 10si's up to 63 amp. The stock routing for this wire usually runs down to the starter and uses the starter terminal as a junction with the large gauge battery wire. However, you can simplify it and run the wire directly from the alternator BAT terminal to the battery positive terminal, as long as you splice in a fusible link.

Terminal 1 - This wire has to run to a switched ignition source. In many cars it includes a dash light for alternator, so it serves as an charge indicator. If there is no dash light to provide resistance, you may want to add a 10 ohm resistor in series with the wire. Make sure it is connected to a switched source that has no power when the ignition switch is off.

Terminal 2 - This wire also needs 12 volts from the battery. Many 10si pigtails simply loop this wire directly over to the bat terminal on the alternator. The disadvantage of that solution is that the connection is for a sense wire. You would be sensing the voltage right off the battery and the alternator may undercharge in some high load situations. Most stock GM wiring runs this wire back down to the starter terminal or a junction box closer to the engine and accessories. That gives a better "sense" of the total voltage drop from accessories, and the alternator increases the charge rate sooner.

Bruce
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Old 08-11-2007, 05:57 PM
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On the plug connector for my alternator they are marked R & F. Which is terminal 1, which is terminal 2.

Thanks muchly for the reply. It made much more sense and is considerably clearer then Doc's diagram...

And I do not have trouble with wiring diagrams. I used Don Olson's and Doc Rebuild's wiring diagrams to re-wire my Corvette. Unfortunately these early Corvettes used generators, which is how my Lectric Limited harness was wired. Also Olson's and Doc Rebuild's diagrams were for generators.

My main alternator wire is not 10 gauge, it is 12 gauge. Will that be a problem? My alternator is a 10si and I'm told it is 60 amp....

Cheers

Kenmo
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Old 08-12-2007, 08:05 AM
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For most alternators there is an R on the case next to the #1 terminal, so I assume that R terminal =1. However, I'd verify that before you actually connect everything.
When I bought a standard SI replacement connector from NAPA, it only plugged in one way, and the wires were color coded and explained on the package. One connector they stocked was a replacement plug that included a wire for terminal 2 that had a ring connector on the end. It was just long enough to loop over and connect to the BAT terminal.

12 gauge wiring on the charge wire is too light for a 63 amp alternator if you ever plan to put a full load on the system. If it has the right 16 gauge fusible link, you might get by for a while, but you might also burn up the fusible link if you turn on the headlights and blower motor at the same time.

10 gauge wire is very easy to find, and almost every parts store also has a short 14 gauge GM fusible link that they sell in one of the standard plastic packages (Help!, Dorfman, etc.). You could use the standard routing (probably from the BAT terminal down to the starter), or just run it directly over to the battery if that routing is easier. Use crimp connectors to splice the wires together, and then seal them with heat shrink tubing to keep water out.

Bruce
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