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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2013, 09:33 PM
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scrap parts

A lot of the scrap iron guys keep asking about our old farm machinery and I say NO WAY My supply of parts and iron, I have the pto hydralics I am saving to build a louver press, the ram frame work from an old high lift fork lift for 2 frame tables. I just have to keep stuff inside a 6 ft chain link fence with the "sight obsecuring" vinys strips.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2013, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
A lot of the scrap iron guys keep asking about our old farm machinery and I say NO WAY My supply of parts and iron, I have the pto hydralics I am saving to build a louver press, the ram frame work from an old high lift fork lift for 2 frame tables. I just have to keep stuff inside a 6 ft chain link fence with the "sight obsecuring" vinys strips.
That would be great. i would even love to have a convenient place to put a parts car.

John
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2013, 10:24 PM
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another one

using a drill
*TECH WEEK* how to build a door for your 26-27 model t /28-29 a pickup - THE H.A.M.B.
i need to build doors doe the nash roadster and I want to build stretched doors for the 27 t roadster I have some parts for
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2013, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
OPPS TO GOW 589
I AM STILL TYPING WITH 3 FINGERS, the smashed one is healing ok.
You need to drill and tap and add grease zerks to the shaft guide blocks, mine gauled the shafts after a few years use.
I like your multi use stand . I started out with every tool having its own stand but the 40 X 120 shop soon ran out of space.
Thank You, I'll do that!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2013, 05:50 PM
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Doing the SWAG mod to my Harbor Freight tubing roller. I am using the HF Electric Pipe Threader to drive the roller and I will make another adapter to drive my bead roller.
They say to just mash the 1/2" threading die onto the 3/4" drive shaft for the roller. I want to keep the 1/2" die usable so I designed an adapter to fit the octagon drive bore in the threader. This is an 8 sided bore. It would have been to easy to make a 6 sided one.
The HF Pipe Threader.

This is one of the original dies... 8 sides, not 6... Is this a "metric" hexagon?

I designed the adapter in 3D CAD so it was easy to get good dimensions. I first designed it by cutting 8 chunks of 3/8th's plate but thought it would be easier to assemble if they were all one piece.
We laid out all of the cut lines and clamped the plate to a small angle block.
Doing all of the cutting on VBS was pretty quick with the layout lines and block clamped on to guide the initial cut.

The spacing was .526 inches between the centers of the cut. With all of the cuts made.

We left about .030 at the bottom of the cut to hold all of the pieces together.

This is the "spindle" for the adapter. I cut a chunk of 1 1/4" dia. steel, cleaned it up in the lathe and bored a .75 hole thru the middle.
[imghttp://images107.fotki.com/v780/photos/5/904975/12609672/MVC005F-vi.jpg]http://[/img]

Drilled and tapped two holes on one end, 90 degrees apart, to clamp the adapter to the shaft.

Used the spindle to form the 3/8th's plate. This wasn't that easy. It took two sets of pliers to do the bending.

Getting it there...

The hose clamp pulled it down pretty close but we ended up using a hammer to get it the rest of the way. Those v notches make a good place to weld .

Adjusting the fit. It fit real well on the first try.

I welded everything up and checked the fit. Did a little clean up grinding and it was good to go. It's not pretty but it will do the job.

This thing got very hot during the welding but it still fit the shaft and the drive bore with no problems after it cooled.

I'll end up painting it black but this will do the job and I don't have to destroy the pipe tap from the kit.

Thanks for looking.
Mark
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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The growing season up here is too short for my wife's blackberries and I said I could roll some conduit to make a green house cover to extend the growing season,
You're deliberately growing blackberries?

Around here everyone is trying very hard to kill them all off! (They're referred to as "ditchberries" locally and they are pernicious weeds!)
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave57210 View Post
You're deliberately growing blackberries?

Around here everyone is trying very hard to kill them all off! (They're referred to as "ditchberries" locally and they are pernicious weeds!)
X2... Right up there with Kudzu vine. I fight the blackberries in my yard constantly along the fence.

John
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Old 11-19-2013, 11:10 PM
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Now if I could find something to kill off all the Ivy, too.......
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2013, 11:39 PM
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High desert ?

WE are are over 4800 ft elevation, normally less than 20 inches of rain per year. Sage brush country, we normally get garden killing frosts in june and labor day weekend, but we can grow rasberries, and periodacally have to tarp over the garden when we have frost warnings.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2013, 09:26 AM
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Damn interesting thread here.

Brian
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2013, 08:33 PM
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I thought I had everything ready to go for this weekend but just noticed I picked up a step on, step off switch by mistake. Hope to swap it out tomorrow before the kids get here.

John

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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2013, 12:18 AM
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Well Tim and I hit the basement today.

Since I was the guy with the camera it looks like only Tim did anything. I promise I helped.

First thing we did was take some good advise and install Zerc fittings in the bearing blocks and yes, mine were galded too. We put the best two on the end with the beading dies since that is where most of the pressure is.



Next we mounted the motor to the pipe frame with some heavy u-bolts.



We wired the forward/reverse switch, installed the Chinese sprocket that was machined so badly I had to take a die grinder to it and we put it together.



And here is the first bead coming off of it. The spead is perfect. Could not be better but I sure would try to find a better source for the sprocket.



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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2013, 08:21 AM
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I have followed this with great interest, thanks for sharing. This is a great idea.
My questions are....
When you roll your bead, is it done in one pass, to the finished depth of the bead?
How is the speed, while turning radiuses ?
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:28 AM
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Awesome John! Just put a chain guard on that thing. Damn nice work there John!

Brian
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulletnose26 View Post
I have followed this with great interest, thanks for sharing. This is a great idea.
My questions are....
When you roll your bead, is it done in one pass, to the finished depth of the bead?
How is the speed, while turning radiuses ?
The bead is done with one pass. If you try to make double passes you will get "shadow" lines where you make a slightly different pass.

The speed is just what I had calculated. About an inch/second. It seems to be just right. I would not want it to be any faster though

As far as radiuses go it is slow enough to turn gentle radiuses just fine, You can cycle the pedal for sharper ones.

With all this said. I had already bought the drive motor before I did a lot of research. The guys that are using the winch drives make some strong arguments for them. The neutral gate would be cool to allow it to be used by hand and you can buy a winch for what I paid for a Chinese sprocket that was so bad I had to grind on it for the chain to fit it.

Harbor Freight has a winch on sale now for 49.95.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Awesome John! Just put a chain guard on that thing. Damn nice work there John!

Brian
Yes. Also need a dust cover for the top of the motor. We just ran out of time.

John
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