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-   -   Converting bead roller to power (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/converting-bead-roller-power-255097.html)

John long 11-14-2013 10:20 PM

Converting bead roller to power
 
Tonight I won a Craftsman chain drive garage door opener head for 35 dollars on Ebay with free shipping.

It seems to me that it should work well as a power unit for my bead roller.

It has gear reduction, is reversible, and is 110 volts.

I think I should be able to install a sprocket on the roller, eliminate all of the sensors and wire the motor to a spdt switch for forward and reverse and run the power through a foot pedal and make this work.

I don't know yet how many RPM's the drive sprocket turns so I can't order a sprocket yet but I am going to try to have everything lined up when my son in law, Tim, comes for Thanksgiving. Hopefully this will be a fun project while he is here.

I know there are several examples of similar modifications on HomemadeTools.net but if any of you have been down this road or have anything to contribute jump in and share what you think I ought to know.....or know what I ought to think:D

John

timothale 11-14-2013 10:39 PM

time for a quick release.
 
I should be able to down load my camera and post picts of my quick release in the next couple days. I used the old HF $ 50 atv winch on mine.

tech69 11-14-2013 11:55 PM

I'd love to see your ideas. I just got a bead roller and plan to motorize it too.

bentwings 11-15-2013 02:24 AM

One thing you need to consider is that you will need variable speed. It can be a real trick to go around a corner at a constant speed if it is too fast.

I have servo motor on my sewing machne that I got last year for about $150. It's 3/4 hp and goes so slow you can hardly tell it is moving. It came with a belt drive pulley. these are metric so changing pulleys means making a bushing but that is'nt too hard.

John long 11-15-2013 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bentwings (Post 1912850)
One thing you need to consider is that you will need variable speed. It can be a real trick to go around a corner at a constant speed if it is too fast.

I have servo motor on my sewing machne that I got last year for about $150. It's 3/4 hp and goes so slow you can hardly tell it is moving. It came with a belt drive pulley. these are metric so changing pulleys means making a bushing but that is'nt too hard.

I have a servo on my Adler sewing machine and know exactly what you are saying.

I have had and used my bead roller for 25 years and it is true that control is needed but having 2 hands free to guide the metal will be the big benefit. I hope and believe a constant speed will be manageable as long as it is geared slow enough. I think I will mount the motor in a way that it will be easy to remove the chain and attach a hand wheel which in itself would be a big improvement over a crank. That would be an option for any intricate patterns that had to be done.

Thanks for your thoughts.

"[quoto]Tech69 "I'd love to see your ideas. I just got a bead roller and plan to motorize it too."

Henry, you demonstrated pulling a pushed in fender with a metal plate the other day which is going to work perfectly for me where my car was "tagged" in the rear end. I jave learned sooo much here. Hopefully what I doing this will help you and some others. That is what this forum is all about and why I enjoy hanging around here so much.

John

John

timothale 11-15-2013 08:28 AM

power
 
I posted some info a few months back on my bead roller, we were south for a wedding and now have a snow storm coming, and I should be outside getting things ready. here is some info
powering a bead roller - Metal Meet Forums
Power your HF bead roller with a winch motor - The Garage Journal Board

timothale 11-15-2013 08:39 AM

more bead roller
 
I posted more bead roller info on pages 25 and 26 of John's 53 chevy belair rebuild.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/53-b...233635-25.html

gow589 11-15-2013 08:48 AM

I don't have a very good photo. I had a geared dc motor from an auction laying around. I got a misalignment adapter ad power supply from Surpluscity. It is variable speed with a HF on/off foot pedal:



http://www.rc-tech.net/cars2/roller1.jpg

http://www.rc-tech.net/cars2/roller2.jpg

timothale 11-15-2013 09:00 AM

HF 110 V winch
 
the 120 v winch is similar to the 12 V one I used I have seen the 120 V for $ 69 on sale.
120V AC Electric Winch w/ Remote Control

John long 11-15-2013 09:20 AM

Thanks for all the good info guys. The winch or treadmill should work very well. It will be interesting to see if the garage door opener has enough torque but with an 8 tooth primary sprocket it would be a 5 to 1 gear reduction with a 40 tooth driven sprocket. I have not checked what the RPM of the opener is yet so not sure what I need.

I have not received the one from ebay but may check the one on my own door.

I am hoping to do this complete conversion for about 75 dollars. Remmember I am not cheap just very, very frugal. :thumbup:

John

tech69 11-15-2013 10:19 AM

yeah, cause the Dayton ac/dc blah blah blah that guys are using is like $275.
I'm not so hip to electrical and gearing but if it's in plain dummy terms I might be able to just pull it off by copying you-lol

John long 11-15-2013 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tech69 (Post 1913538)
yeah, cause the Dayton ac/dc blah blah blah that guys are using is like $275.
I'm not so hip to electrical and gearing but if it's in plain dummy terms I might be able to just pull it off by copying you-lol

Hmmmm, This could be another case of the blind leading the blind Huh? :thumbup:

Forward March........

John

timothale 11-15-2013 10:51 AM

picts mabe?
 
2 Attachment(s)
I'll try to post some picts
not enough light and my cluttered shop in the background As per my earlier explanation in John's 53 belair page 25 26 the red handle is the quick release, the Y links are from the steel supplier;s wrought iron isles, not shown in the pict is the hand crank on top of the Y to adjust pressure. IMPORTANT if your roller does not have grease zerks drill and tap and add the grease zerks. after a few years my shafts and blocks were gauler badly. second pict is the buckbpard seat for a parade fire truck my son is gathering parts to build.
But he is busy with his job working 2 fire stations and his construction business

John long 11-15-2013 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timothale (Post 1913570)
I'll try to post some picts
not enough light and my cluttered shop in the background As per my earlier explanation in John's 53 belair page 25 26 the red handle is the quick release, the Y links are from the steel supplier;s wrought iron isles, not shown in the pict is the hand crank on top of the Y to adjust pressure. IMPORTANT if your roller does not have grease zerks drill and tap and add the grease zerks. after a few years my shafts and blocks were gauler badly. second pict is the buckbpard seat for a parade fire truck my son is gathering parts to build.
But he is busy with his job working 2 fire stations and his construction business

Thanks for the pictures. If and when it is convenient I would love to see some pictures of the drive end of yours.

John

timothale 11-15-2013 02:46 PM

drive gears
 
I followed the instructions Jim Stabe posted on Metalmeet forums a few years ago I';ll see if I can find the links. The Metal meet site crashed a few years ago.. I like the HF winch because I can pull out the handle into neutral and run it with a steering wheel ..


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