[gixxer1]

i have a 92 mustang 5.0........i want to change the fusible links (18 guage-20 guage ) to blade type fuse. can i do this? will it hurt any thing? thinking about 30 amp fuses . read 30 amp would do the job.these fuses will run main computer power and fuel pump relay. under hood near battery. is this ok to do ?, if it isn't than why have manufactures done away with links???and gone to blade fuses???

[58Apache]

Yeah I hate those dang things myself and plan on not using them in my rod I'm building. The main advantage for car builders is their cost.

If you're sure of the fuse size, check out the many companies that provide electrical supplies to rodders. They build inline fuses, maxi fuses and more.

Also check out some of the cool electrical supplies that high power audio freaks use in their cars.

Check out Painless, Haywire, and the many audio companies on E-bay.

Steve

[docvette]

Doc here,

If you run a STANDARD type Blade fuse, on a critical system, I can almost bet you will be sitting along side the road the first time the system spikes for a millisecond to 31.5 amps...(like a motor start, or other opposition)

Fuse links and Maxi Fuses have NOT been done away with at all..Most have upgraded to the MAXI fuse..as opposed to the link type, I DO not use them ... for one basic reason..It's way too easy to pop another in and whistle past the graveyard with an impending problem your not looking at...

IF you have to replace a link..you can BET your bottom dollar your going to track down and correct the problem that took it out! Remember: these are just not protection devices that randomly open up every few years and you toss another in..They open something MAJOR is about to happen..Major enough to cause a fire ... one you can't put out with all the water and chemicals in the world..until the FUEL (the electrical source) Is removed..(cut cables or exploded battery)


Bypassed Fuse links..Made the "Amp louder"
FD waiting for Battery to blow while controlling fire.
(note crime scene tape)

FUSE LINKS and MAXI FUSES are designed to heat up under load and "Melt open" over a specific amount of time..when exposed to extreme load..a Blade fuse is not..It spikes ..it's open..a Link or maxi will sustain the load before it melts down..(or opens) It does it's job by burning up..(which is why they are never installed inside the passenger compartment)

If you want to use a Maxi where a fuse link came out, it's perfectly fine..If it's a 30 link, get a 30 maxi and its socket and pigtails..and install it..Don't use a standard 30 amp fuse.

Happy and Safe Labor day!

Doc

[gixxer1]

ok so if its a 20 guage fusible link then use a 20 maxi fuse?
this should be ok for my main computer and fuel pump power, bytheway they are both relayed too......

[docvette]

Originally Posted by gixxer1

ok so if its a 20 guage fusible link then use a 20 maxi fuse?
this should be ok for my main computer and fuel pump power, bytheway they are both relayed too......

Doc here,

No..Common Misconception here..

You FIRST must find the MAXIMUM draw required by the system or circuits to be supported by that branch.

THEN, measure the MAXIMUM distance in feet From the Source Current to the end user Device ..

NEXT, look on an national AWG Chart for the wire size and composition type wire that will safely support the maximum draw..

Current in Amps + Length of the Run = Gauge of the wire.

Run that wire and THEN, install the Maxi fuse that closely matches the ampacity of the wire..If the wire supports 35 amps, then fuse at 30..

You are protecting the wiring harness from fire not the end user device...

Were that the case there would be no point in Fusing Computerized or Digital devices at all..a Fuse Could Never React in time to stop internal damage. (other internal devices do that job..) A Buss Fuse would Be several hundred Milliseconds too slow to be effective.

Happy & Safe Labor Day!

Doc

[gixxer1]

its 18 gauge wire, will a 20 amp maxi fuse support it? or should i go with a different size?

[gixxer1]

Originally Posted by docvette

Doc here,

No..Common Misconception here..

You FIRST must find the MAXIMUM draw required by the system or circuits to be supported by that branch.

THEN, measure the MAXIMUM distance in feet From the Source Current to the end user Device ..

NEXT, look on an national AWG Chart for the wire size and composition type wire that will safely support the maximum draw..

Current in Amps + Length of the Run = Gauge of the wire.

Run that wire and THEN, install the Maxi fuse that closely matches the ampacity of the wire..If the wire supports 35 amps, then fuse at 30..

You are protecting the wiring harness from fire not the end user device...

Were that the case there would be no point in Fusing Computerized or Digital devices at all..a Fuse Could Never React in time to stop internal damage. (other internal devices do that job..) A Buss Fuse would Be several hundred Milliseconds too slow to be effective.

Happy & Safe Labor Day!

Doc

ok so looking at the bottom chart 18 gauge wire with support about a 10 amp maxi fuse?

[docvette]

Originally Posted by gixxer1

ok so looking at the bottom chart 18 gauge wire with support about a 10 amp maxi fuse?

Doc here,

How long is the TOTAL wire run?

Solid or stranded Copper wire? (OR OTHER COMPOSITION)

How much current is that wire EXPECTED to support...?

You can't just say..the pump pulls 15 , the other stuff pulls 10, I'll put a 25 amp maxi in there on a 22 gauge wire and call it good because the total ampacity is covered..THE WIRE will melt and start a fire before the fuse will open..

That's tantamount to saying I have 100 amp welder in my garage...300 feet from the service drop.I'll put a 100 amp fuse in the service box and run 4 ~ 18 gauge wires 350 feet..It'll be just fine...until you strike your first arc..then like a good neghbor....State Farm will be there..

You MUST first always be sure the wire will support the expected draw (and a little more) Then protect it just slightly less than the ampacity of the wire.

happy & safe Labor day!

Doc

[gixxer1]

ok i understand,i think i'll just replace the link with the factory one........i don't know if i can find the answers to to all these questions .....hey bythe way do you have any info on the 08 camaro? is it a go?

[malc]

Fusible Links and Camaro

[oldred]

Ok I have a question, I understand how to arrive at the required fuse rating (or fusible link) and you guys have long since sold me on the use of fusible links instead of fuses but what I would like to know is why don't a fusible link have a listed AMP rating? I know about sizing of the link vs wire gauge but I have wondered why there seems to be no listed rating such as "20 gauge link = xx AMPs etc?