My friend had an old Subaru (really old beaten up one) and decided to toy with a bit. He works at a machine shop so he built a part that would bolt up to his carb. Basically what it was he ran the carb on fuel fumes, not actually fumes. If perfected this would give him GREAT gas mileage. It was built in cylinder with various chambers and stuff in it. The car ran ok with this setup, but not perfect. At idle it was fine but when driving over bumpy terrain or under heavy acceleration it would stall of run poor. He lost interesnt in it and never perfected it (mainly because it was gonna be hard and $$$ was issue). Thought that was pretty cool, with gas prices these days anything to improve mileage.
Hmm. I wonder what ever happened to that caburetor that was supposedly put on a 64 Corvette, by accident, that got 45 miles to the gallon. When the mistake was discovered, the owner was called to bring the car in for a factory "courtesy check" and when he got it back, the best he got was about 14 MPG? Dont you just love those old stories?
Anyone else ever hear of a Tice-Fish carburetor? or the Winfield Super?
These were supposed to not only produce a kazillion HP by just bolting them on to any engine you had but were also supposed to do it with extremely high gas mileage.
Seems so many people forget that the optimum fuel air ratio for any engine is somewhere between 12:1 and 14;1 PPM. Go any leaner and it just wont run. Go any richer, and it might run, but you will look like a mosquito fogger coming down the road.
.
I seem to save alot on gas mileage with my carb with out any special tools or parts. Of course I have to let it idle everywhere I drive it and not ever push on the throrttle. Seems to save a lot of gas! No need to ever go over 20 mph! :thumbup:
That's nothing that the factories haven't done already. Take a notice when the carb heat flapper in the air cleaner snorkel actually opens up. It doesn't just heat the carb when it's cold outside. Many of them do not open fully until the air entering the carb is quite warm, 100 degrees or so. On top of this the manifold is heated with hot water or exhaust. It never fails to amaze me how many people will rip off all of the factory stuff and then try to reinvent it all.
Sounds like if you put a lot of money and time into it, you might get it to work *laughs while wondering at my own stupty* i dont know much about that though that is what it sounds like
imp:
My friend had an old Subaru (really old beaten up one) and decided to toy with a bit. He works at a machine shop so he built a part that would bolt up to his carb. Basically what it was he ran the carb on fuel fumes, not actually fumes. If perfected this would give him GREAT gas mileage. It was built in cylinder with various chambers and stuff in it. The car ran ok with this setup, but not perfect. At idle it was fine but when driving over bumpy terrain or under heavy acceleration it would stall of run poor. He lost interesnt in it and never perfected it (mainly because it was gonna be hard and $$$ was issue). Thought that was pretty cool, with gas prices these days anything to improve mileage.
I spent a bunch of time trying to perfect the idea many years ago. I figured you would still need an accelerator pump. The thing that kept me from actually building one was a safe way to keep from blowing the whole thing sky high if there was ever a lean back fire.
Around the same time I was also working on using a Nitrogen charged cylinder on a retarder as a means to store the energy used to stop a vehicle, the reintroduce the energey to get it back into motion. I had the whole thing designed except got a rather complicated treadle valve (1970s-no computers yet) Well guess what? Last year Ford announces they are introducing that very system on the F series trucks, 35 years after I gave up on it. (I had also thopught it would be dangerous on icey roads to only retard the rear driving wheels)
Hmm. I wonder what ever happened to that caburetor that was supposedly put on a 64 Corvette, by accident, that got 45 miles to the gallon. When the mistake was discovered, the owner was called to bring the car in for a factory "courtesy check" and when he got it back, the best he got was about 14 MPG? Dont you just love those old stories?
Anyone else ever hear of a Tice-Fish carburetor? or the Winfield Super?
These were supposed to not only produce a kazillion HP by just bolting them on to any engine you had but were also supposed to do it with extremely high gas mileage.
Seems so many people forget that the optimum fuel air ratio for any engine is somewhere between 12:1 and 14;1 PPM. Go any leaner and it just wont run. Go any richer, and it might run, but you will look like a mosquito fogger coming down the road.
.
I think Mythbusters needs to tackle that one. I have heard dozens of variations of that story over the years, kind of like the $200 Corvette in the want ads.
There is this little thing called stoicometric or Lamba, that the maximum efficiency is a fuel/air mixture of about 14.7:1. A bunch of variable and other theory can affect this some but basically you can't really run a piston engine much leaner than that or the flame won't propogate across the combustion chamber anymore.
I spent a bunch of time trying to perfect the idea many years ago. I figured you would still need an accelerator pump. The thing that kept me from actually building one was a safe way to keep from blowing the whole thing sky high if there was ever a lean back fire.
Around the same time I was also working on using a Nitrogen charged cylinder on a retarder as a means to store the energy used to stop a vehicle, the reintroduce the energey to get it back into motion. I had the whole thing designed except got a rather complicated treadle valve (1970s-no computers yet) Well guess what? Last year Ford announces they are introducing that very system on the F series trucks, 35 years after I gave up on it. (I had also thopught it would be dangerous on icey roads to only retard the rear driving wheels)
Patents only last 7-12 years depending on the type, whether its a completely new idea or a way to make something work better (utility patent). And he said this was 35+ years ago so it wouldn't have mattered.
You can run much leaner than 14.7:1 on the hwy under low/no load cruising conditions. I will typically tune into the 15.2 -15.5 range under these conditions. True "lean burn" engines can get into the 17:1 to 18:1 range. Your not going to do that with a carb or old style bathtub cylinder head though.
You can run much leaner than 14.7:1 on the hwy under low/no load cruising conditions. I will typically tune into the 15.2 -15.5 range under these conditions. True "lean burn" engines can get into the 17:1 to 18:1 range. Your not going to do that with a carb or old style bathtub cylinder head though.
You can run much leaner than 14.7:1 on the hwy under low/no load cruising conditions. I will typically tune into the 15.2 -15.5 range under these conditions. True "lean burn" engines can get into the 17:1 to 18:1 range. Your not going to do that with a carb or old style bathtub cylinder head though.
I agree that 15+ is possible although I do not consider 15.5 "much leaner" And I have not seen the research on 18:1 engines so I will take your word on that but I would think it is only attainable on engines with small displacement due to the physics of cylinder filling and flame propogation. Even 18:1 is nowhere near a 200 mpg engine, maybe 50 mpg depending on the size of the vehicle and engine.
i do belive willowbilly 3 is talking about that tornado thinga migia anyway..
since were in gas milage...
tell me what keep the industry from making a lock up differental ?
if you got up to hyway speeds then the trans went into lock up and the rear went into a straight drive lock up....
i know you would need some serious power and torque but ..i read somewhere that if your car dident have a differental it would not be able to go slower than 50 mph and top out at close to 200mph
any validity in this ??
ive been pondering this for years
(sorry my spellcheckers not working)
You can run much leaner than 14.7:1 on the hwy under low/no load cruising conditions. I will typically tune into the 15.2 -15.5 range under these conditions. True "lean burn" engines can get into the 17:1 to 18:1 range. Your not going to do that with a carb or old style bathtub cylinder head though.
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