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Info I've read says to just use water for the initial break in, and after you've confimed ther'es no leaks, drain it and add your coolant. Oils recommended have been straight 30 Weight and use a quality filter, like a WIX or something. Bolt torques are listed in all repair manuals or engine rebuild books. Only ones I remember are Intake @ 35 ftlbs and Carb @ 8 ftlbs. Before you start it, it's good to prime the oil pump until you get oil coming up through each pushrod and onto each rocker arm.
Brian |
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I agree on using water only, cheaper and cleaner if you find some of the obligatory leaks that always occur on a new motor.
Regarding the torque settings, try this site http://www.torquespecs.com/ Regarding oil, I tend to use a multigrade oil like 10w30 for the break in period, since the oil viscosity is most critical upon startup on a cold motor. A good prelube with a prelube tool or old distributor shaft and a hand drill will make sure that everything is nice and slippery before starting the motor. A good filter will remove any metal particles that didn't get cleaned out after machining...a magnet on the filter and/or on the drain plug would be additional insurance. |
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Just me but I've never broken any engine I've ever built in with anything other than whatever 50/50 coolant mixture and multi-grade oil I was planning on using in the engine. Broke current 302 in on 10W30 and 50/50 coolant/water. I will also point out that we R&R engines all the time at work using the same method. This includes dealerships and independant shops that I have worked at. Labor guides give us X amount of time to R&R an engine and we generally don't waste any unnecessary time that is not needed. This does not mean that using water might not be a bad idea if you want to do it that way but it is definately not necessary in my opinion.
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The only thing I know is they recommend not using synthetic oils when breaking in a new engine and change your oil after 100 miles or so to get out any metal pieces floating around.
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