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Old 05-03-2009, 06:09 PM
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cooling

I would like opinions on what is the maximum temperture a 350c.i chevy engine can be run on a steady basis

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Old 05-03-2009, 08:54 PM
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I would say 180 or 190
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie52
I would like opinions on what is the maximum temperture a 350c.i chevy engine can be run on a steady basis
I'll second Tubbed71's position for a street engine.

Bogie
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:28 PM
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Damage won't occur unless you're boiling over. As long as its not boiling and its not OVERheating, 225 is plenty safe, mostly limited by the pressure that a radiator can safely handle. I run a 190 stat in mine and it keeps the head temps right at 200-210. If I'm towing on a hot day uphill with the AC on it will climb to 220 and stay there, but it has never gone further.

If you're using non-aqueous coolant, I wouldn't hesitate to take it much higher as long as you have an oil temp gauge. As long as the oil temps don't get above too hot its A-OK. The engine is consistently dealing with 2000+ degree combustion, the actual temperature of the coolant has little to do with it... provided its not boiling.

People associate overheating with warping heads or other components. The fact that the coolant reaches 250 is not what warps things, its the fact that its boiling and letting certain parts of the head get screaming hot. Once it boils and water is not in constant contact with the water jacket, its a downhill slope and things can get damaged. But, if there is no boiling, the engine doesn't really care if the coolant is 200 or 300. As long as it is shuttling heat away at the same rate, no worries.

That's a long way of saying this: As long as its not boiling, and as long as the oil temps aren't getting too hot, there is no real max temperature
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
Damage won't occur unless you're boiling over. As long as its not boiling and its not OVERheating, 225 is plenty safe, mostly limited by the pressure that a radiator can safely handle. I run a 190 stat in mine and it keeps the head temps right at 200-210. If I'm towing on a hot day uphill with the AC on it will climb to 220 and stay there, but it has never gone further.

If you're using non-aqueous coolant, I wouldn't hesitate to take it much higher as long as you have an oil temp gauge. As long as the oil temps don't get above too hot its A-OK. The engine is consistently dealing with 2000+ degree combustion, the actual temperature of the coolant has little to do with it... provided its not boiling.

People associate overheating with warping heads or other components. The fact that the coolant reaches 250 is not what warps things, its the fact that its boiling and letting certain parts of the head get screaming hot. Once it boils and water is not in constant contact with the water jacket, its a downhill slope and things can get damaged. But, if there is no boiling, the engine doesn't really care if the coolant is 200 or 300. As long as it is shuttling heat away at the same rate, no worries.

That's a long way of saying this: As long as its not boiling, and as long as the oil temps aren't getting too hot, there is no real max temperature
I do not agree with your conclusion which I think you take away with the your latter argument. You bet the metal temps on the inside of the coolant passages surrounding the combustion chamber are easily 400 degrees F above the coolant average return temp. And the chamber temps are around 1200 on the surface. The inside surface is under a lot of compression as it strains against the cooler water wall side a fraction of an inch away. This is the stuff that cracks and warps are made of. While the coolant in general isn't boiling at 225 with 16-18 psi on it, the general boiling point isn't far away at 250 or so. Going with your argument you can rest assured that over the chambers and especially around the sparkplug and exhaust valve you are getting nucleate boiling and plenty of it with pure water and enough to be impressively frightening with any form of non-aqueous coolant which usually means some proprietary mix of propylene base glycols.

The casting over and around the chambers is under severe stress and strain to a point where it is likely to warp or crack. The higher you push these temps, the more likely is a structural failure. The Army Air Corps tried exceptionally high coolant temps in the range of 300-400 degrees with the Allison and the Packard Merlin's both of which were made of way more robust materials and from stricter processes than anything automotive, even today, and it proved to be a structural nightmare. Forcing a return to temps around 200-250 degrees with carburized steel cylinders, chrome moly rods and crank, high alloy, heat treated aluminum castings and forgings for heads and blocks.

So I think running at 225 on the street is a financially risky proposition.

Bogie
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:43 PM
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this is not a 350 but my 6.0L in my truck stays around 200-210, the needle never moves just about no matter what the temp outside or what im pulling or if the A/C is on, the trans guage on the other hand is affected by all of this but it still has yet to see 160, my camaro on the other hand does not like 200+ when i drove it every day, i used to worry about it going over 200 or so cause once it did it didn't stop unless you got plenty of air to the radiator, cooling in that car SUCKED sorry off topic
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Old 05-05-2009, 06:20 AM
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I like 180 for my hot rod, have a friend that has a 350 efi that runs 200 - 210 , he hates it cause 180 is what he is use to . These cars are hot rods open engines .. What is the thermostat you have ? give more information as to what you are seeing , one other item , retarded timing will produce more heat , stock motor, you know the history of the car ... owned it for a while or just got it ?

cooling is a bit tricky but not unsolvable ,just need some facts ..
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:18 AM
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cooling

Pepi,
The car is a 52 chevy with a 350 G.M. crate motor, which is basically stock, except for an edlebrock high rise performer manifold with edelbrock 600 carb and headers.I am running a 180 thermostat with two holes drilled in it, a high volume water pump,an electric puller fan with shroud and a walker cobra radiator.
THE CAR RUNS ABOUT 200 TO 220, MAYBE A LITTLE MORE IF AIR IS ON, AND WILL INCREASE ON THE ROAD AT SPEEDS ABOVE 65MPH.
tHIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN WITH ME SINCE THE ENGINE WAS INSTALLED OVER FIVE YEARS AGO.
tHANKS FOR YOUR REPLY.
BOWTIE52
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:24 AM
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Factory, they should be 195* thermostat in a 350.. this will start to open at 195* and be full open at 215-225*.. completly normal
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:31 PM
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52 first car I ever worked on , reads like you have the right parts. The idea that it gets hotter at 65 sounds like the water pump could be flowing to much , air flow should be there at that speed , lower radiator hose clasping , .

Have you tried a 160 thermostat, they are easy to change . Kind of neutral on drilling the holes in the thermostat I understand the theory, but neutral as to the necessity .How about pulley size , timing retarded will increase engine temp saw a temp change when the timing 8 degrees was advanced to 10 degrees . Maybe information here you might not have checked yet . Certainly not the motor .
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:29 PM
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Seems to me like every time there is an engine cooling thread there is a common denominator....electric fans..with a stock water pump,fan and shroud, my 14:1 396 will idle in 110 degree temps and never go over 210........
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:01 PM
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All the cars I've had or worked on have never went over 200 unless something was wrong. I don't see how 215-225 would be ok. I had a 600 horse 468 BB that I drove around on a regular bases in traffic and it never seen 200.
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:09 PM
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i wouldn't run a early model sbc/bbc over 200 i like it more around 175-185, but with the newer motors you can, like i said eailer my 02' GMC serria 3/4HD with the 6.0L LQ4 runs a constant 205 i dont think i have ever seen it go above that, but that is where it stays, wether towing 6000lbs or it being 100 degrees outside and being stuck in traffic, she still wont budge over 205, the only thing that will change is trans temp i think i have seen it go as high as 160-170 but normally operates around 130
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:53 AM
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Cooling

i WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERY WHO RESPONDED TO MY COOLING PROBLEM. tHAT INCLUDES tUBBED 71,OLD BOGIE,CURTIS 73,MY87Z,PEPI,mATT167 AND BBC MUDBOGGER. yOU HAVE GIVEN ME SOME IDEAS TO WORK WITH. gEAR HEADS ARE GOOD PEOPLE

BOWTIE 52
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:32 AM
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Which crate motor, what dist is in it .The base model has 7.9 compression ratio need lots of timing and vacuum advance hooked to manifold vacuum.
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