Originally Posted by 91CamaroDude
Well I think the thermostat did me wonders. Would have posted earlier but my battery decided to drain out on me and wouldnt let me start. I just never would have thought that a t-stat would be the solution I was looking for. Again thanks for all your guy's help and ideas here.
Welcome to the world of systems integration, no longer are cars made with any reserve capacity. The entire cooling system from air dams to thermostats and all the parts between function in a closely orchestrated balance to achieve an end, change anything in the orchestra and you get different and most often unpleasant results.
You have to remember this thing was designed to be cooled with Dex-Cool, not water and not green Prestone. These chemicals used as coolant greatly differ from each other and all from water as to how they gain and surrender heat. The thermostat is a simple device that regulates the rate of flow to maintain the set temperature, it's not an open or closed device but a regulating valve. Different coolants want to move through the engine at different velocities that optimize heat transfer at both the gaining and surrendering ends of the function. The thermostat within it's max flow capability and under that point will adjust the flow rate for the best heat transfer when the thermostat is selected in the proper range for the fluids. Typically the factory used 195 to 210 thermostats with Dex-Cool. Thermostat's from about 180 to 195 will keep up in a good range for pure water to pure Prestone. But for example ,to optimize pure Prestone, actually running a 210 thermostat would work better, this, however, is not a recommendation for pure Prestone (ethylene glycol base) especially if you live where the weather gets really cold as pure EG gets thick and slushy at sub zero temps becoming hard to pump till it gets warm, I'm just providing data points with pure EG not suggesting you use it.
Dex-Cool is really quirky stuff works really great when kept clean and free of air. Contaminated it will acidify and attack everything it contacts. So keeping it clean and airless is most important, that means you check it at the overflow tank, you never ever let that tank go empty. But obviously yours is gone so that isn't an issue other than the crap the old stuff formed is in the engine. Chemical cleaners are inadequate to the task, cleaning the cooling jackets needs to left to professional radiator shops with the tools to scrub the system out. Even that isn't as good as it needs to be, unfortunately the best way to clean gunked cooling passages is dissassembly of the engine and scrubbing the castings in a hot tank for cast iron and bake for aluminum. A huge effort for not having paid adequate attention to the cooling system. The days of taking cooling for granted are over and have been for 15-20 years already.
When using water to dilute coolant, use distilled or de-ionized water not tap water. Tap water is usually a hard water, that is it has chemical salts in it. These salts are reactive with metals, especially where different metals are involved such as cast iron and aluminum and/or brass and copper.