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#2 is correct....except the T-stat's small opening limits, restricts the flow or slows the coolant down so the air passing through the core can cool it down. Without the T-stat the coolant rushes through the core too fast and doesn't get the benefit of the finned area = HOT coolant all the time.
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surely need the t-stat try 195 degree second did u reverse flush the cooling system? its simple to do even if the engine isnt running...assuming u have a heater disconnect one hose,attach a water hose and a lil duck tape to hold in place lol turn on the water w/radiator cap off water should folw out off the top...if not try the water hose on the opposite heater hose... also did u dran the block by the to plugs on the bottom?? after u pull the plugs out and have no water flowing ouy of them..insert a small screwdriver thru the rust until it flows.... after u turn the water on allow to run thru system until it runs clear
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It sounds like you maybe had a thermostat in this car and then took it out to see if you could improve cooling? First thing's first, you do have to run a thermostat. Second, I would check the pressure in your system to be sure you've got proper pressure. Low pressure will cause you to overheat as well.
K |
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Make sure the chin spoiler and all air dams are in place. This era Camaro has a very small grille opening, and uses these pieces to direct airflow from under the bumper through the radiator core. If they are missing, it will overheat. You also need to have the t-stat in, for the reasons Cobalt mentioned.
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O.o hmmm I really did not think about the decreased size in the thermostat would allow more water to cool vs leaving it open.
And no I do not have a heater hooked up just yet I'm still trying to figure out the main things first. Which I do understand if I had a heater hooked up that it would allow it to cool more even through the core. I have put my hose in, let it run a few minutes, pull a drain plug, fill her up, ect. I'm a little unsure where the rust would be at? And never have I had a thermostat in here I just assumed that during august and September I would need as much waterflow as possible but it seems that it is wrong. |
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I believe some cars also use the heater core as part of the cooling system .
If you get a hole in your heater core .. amd bypass the heater core,, The motor may overheat |
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air flow
the chin spoiler is a very important part of the cooling system om a modern auto it forces more air through the radiator. when the system is set up right the fan actually does nothing above 35mph or so. yes the t stat is also required to slow the water flow through the radiator so it cools. also make sure your heater hoses are at least hooked together most V engines need that flow to properly remove the air from the heads, if the heads have no water in them no cooling of the enging. i had a project once where i put a 455 olds in an 80s toronado and i actually had to add a larger chin spoiler to keep it from overheating at 25mph.
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Well I think the thermostat did me wonders. Would have posted earlier but my battery decided to drain out on me and wouldnt let me start. I just never would have thought that a t-stat would be the solution I was looking for. Again thanks for all your guy's help and ideas here.
Cody |
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The thermostat does NOT let the coolant cool down easier, whomever thinks that needs to pull their head out of their ***. On a street car a thermostat is necessary though to maintain enough heat in the engine, running too cool is just as bad as running too hot. As mentioned, system pressure reduces localized boiling, which is important, and airflow across the radiator is needed to remove the heat from the cooling system.
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I don't believe anyone mentioned the fan shroud. If you are "driving around town" you are likely not moving fast enough for air to cool the coolant in the radiator and you MUST have a fan shroud so the fan pulls the air THROUGH the radiator not from around it.
Brian |
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