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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2009, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Beautiful car, outstanding looking, but a small cramped engine compartment, and what appears to be a pretty small space for the radiator. No room for airflow around the engine. I think your gonna have your hands full maximizing every inch of the cooling puzzle to keep it cool enough for highway speeds. Good Luck

IMO, airflow OUT of the engine compartment is going to be your biggest problem.
maybe that is an issue too. I loked at the engine compartment and it is tight with not a lot of ways for air to flow out. I might have to make up some new side panels with louvers and see how it works...if it was to solve the problem, I will have to figure out how to get it painted to match.....
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2009, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstgear
Would tend to be a handful when getting on the gas, but after looking at the underneath that panhard bar (not sure that was correct terminology) did not have the back end centered. It is now centered and seems to be a bit easier to goose.
A panhard rod for a locating device on a short rear end will pull the diff side to side more through the suspension travel. The longer the panhard length the better...

195 isn't really very hot, 210 is livable also... if you want to try airflow can you just remove the hood side panels and drive the same route, see if it makes any difference in temps?
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Old 05-19-2009, 04:27 AM
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I work for a cooling company. We had a guy with a similiar motor in his car. The blown cars make much more internal heat than a carbureated one. After beating our heads against the wall for weeks, I finally told the guy to make sure the carbs were set up for the blower. He assured me they were, but with some doubt he took the car to a chassis dyno. Well, at speed they found the carbs were leaning out , making the motor run hotter. They fattened up the jetting and he has a hard time making heat now. Also, I want to tell you that 200-210 IS NOT HOT!!!. Most hi-po motors need to run arond that temp to achieve efficient burn in the cylinders..........240-250, that's hot.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Mopar Guy
195 isn't really very hot, 210 is livable also... if you want to try airflow can you just remove the hood side panels and drive the same route, see if it makes any difference in temps?
good suggestion....I will keep that in the back of my mind in case I really run into problems on the HRPT. We will be at the first 3 stops, debating right now on going up to Detroit area or not.....but the first three stops are near enough to my kids for us to get a cheap place to stay overnight.
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Old 05-19-2009, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsetdart
I work for a cooling company. We had a guy with a similiar motor in his car. The blown cars make much more internal heat than a carbureated one. After beating our heads against the wall for weeks, I finally told the guy to make sure the carbs were set up for the blower. He assured me they were, but with some doubt he took the car to a chassis dyno. Well, at speed they found the carbs were leaning out , making the motor run hotter. They fattened up the jetting and he has a hard time making heat now. Also, I want to tell you that 200-210 IS NOT HOT!!!. Most hi-po motors need to run arond that temp to achieve efficient burn in the cylinders..........240-250, that's hot.
hmmm, chassis dyno might be an answer as well. There is one near me and I had the guy fuss with my '60 EFI Corvette and he did a nice job. This might be the ticket as well.

I have driven the car before to where I work, about 35 miles one way and did not have a problem with the temps spiking to 210, they pretty much stayed at 195. I am going to take a run at the thermostat first. I bought a 195 and 180 from Summit.
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:14 PM
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Timing and coolant

1) check timing. Blower motors usually have low CR and need lots of timing to run cool. On my SBC, 671 at 1:1, CR 8.5, I run 30 initial plus 20 centrifugal.

2) Coolant: antifreeze is not a good coolant; use only enough for your climate. I live in TX and use no antifreeze, just distilled water and Red Line Water Wetter.

3) As long as the motor doesn't boilover (boiling water and steam from the overflow and the temp soaring), don't worry. My car runs 230 in the summer with no problems. I run a 7# cap in winter and switch to a 16# cap in the summer. Higher pressure gives more margin before boilover.

4) The carbs should be boost-referenced to avoid leaning at high load. Some folks just run them rich to avoid the problem, but that leads to fouled plugs and poor mileage.
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Old 05-19-2009, 05:42 PM
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That thing is nice!!

I agree with the others. I was initially thinking head gasket prob between Mark IV & Gen V blocks, but it would be in the 240*+ range.

Is there a underbody pan?

Just remember, the radiator needs plenty of air, but the engine compartment also need an bigger exit area so all that heated air can get out.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2009, 08:06 PM
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no underbody pan, but it is tight between the motor and the rest of the body. It is shoe horned in there.....the underbody of that car is as nice as the top side. Everything painted and buffed or chromed.

Last edited by firstgear; 05-19-2009 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweakman
1) check timing. Blower motors usually have low CR and need lots of timing to run cool. On my SBC, 671 at 1:1, CR 8.5, I run 30 initial plus 20 centrifugal.

2) Coolant: antifreeze is not a good coolant; use only enough for your climate. I live in TX and use no antifreeze, just distilled water and Red Line Water Wetter.

3) As long as the motor doesn't boilover (boiling water and steam from the overflow and the temp soaring), don't worry. My car runs 230 in the summer with no problems. I run a 7# cap in winter and switch to a 16# cap in the summer. Higher pressure gives more margin before boilover.

4) The carbs should be boost-referenced to avoid leaning at high load. Some folks just run them rich to avoid the problem, but that leads to fouled plugs and poor mileage.
I live in northernOhio, so we need to protect for -20 dead winterworse case.

I wasnt hard on the motor, just crusing down the freeway at say 55-60, about 2800 or so RPM. It is a scarey thing when you get on it hard, things happen real quick and the car can get away form you if you are not careful. So my spirited run ups are with caution these days.....I would imagine as I get used to it then there will be enough predictability and more spirited driving.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2009, 10:17 PM
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Try speed up the water pump... Some time the water pump turning too slow will cause one run little warm. At 210 I wouldn't worry about it.. My GMC truck from factory run at 210 all the time.
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