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Old 04-27-2008, 07:19 PM
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These are pictures of my air system. The first picture is the last drop and I will use it for dry air and painting.

Here is another view of the same drop.

The next two views are of the same outlet and is in the back of my garage. I have a T on the setup. One outlet is for my blaster and the other has an oiler on it for air tools.

This outlet is for a shop that is built on the side of my garage and holds my compressor.

I haven't ran my compressor hard since I got all of this hooked up but it seems like most if not all of the moisture is caught at my first drop. I got all of my ideas from the knowledgeable people at Hotrodders. Thanks to all.



Last edited by Kampr; 04-27-2008 at 07:27 PM. Reason: add info
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by oldred
Rob, as I said before after about 50' or so the black iron will have so much surface area to radiate the heat that it will about over take the Copper's advantage so with as much pipe as you are using the Copper would probably make little or no difference in how well the system would cool the air prior to the separator. If I understand correctly you have nearly 300' total? With that much line the black iron would be quite a bit cheaper than Copper even though the price difference between Copper and black iron is not as great as it was a couple of years ago. About the only real argument here in favor of the Copper over iron would be the rusting problem of the iron which IMO is overblown and not really much of a problem anyway. If you have 160' of 3/4" iron pipe between the compressor and separator (a Sharpe no less ) I just can not imagine having a moisture problem as long as it is plumbed properly which it sounds like it is.
I have about 170' total, it just branches off.


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Old 04-28-2008, 06:40 AM
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I have found that this works very nicely to knock out any water in my knock together system. While I only have about 50 feet of copper tubing, by the time it gets to the end it's pretty cool. I've never had any moisture carry over since installing this system.

The clunker HF unit will kick out any big droplets and dirt and the Sharpe knocks out the rest. I originally tried to go cheap with the HF unit, but there was still some, though very minor carry over. I then added the Sharpe, voila!! no more water. The valve also needs to be opened occasionally as it was installed as a drip leg below the 90* turn to the filters - and it works nicely as well. I have since made some mods, taking out the 90* elbow between the filters and added a fairly good wall regulator.

Irelands child
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