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Old 04-10-2003, 11:13 PM
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Post copper exhaust gaskets......HELP!!!!

I have a fresh 350 that I had put regular ehaust gaskets on when I put the motor back in the car. Tonight I changed the regular gaskets to copper gaskets. I can not seem to get the copper gaskets to seal up. There is no old gasket material left on the heads or headers. I double checked that..... Is there any seat time with copper exhaust gaskets. And the instructions says to put the embossed o ring to the outside. I take it that meant up against the header...?? Is this correct.......???


Thanks......

[ April 11, 2003: Message edited by: trick66 ]

[ April 11, 2003: Message edited by: trick66 ]</p>

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Old 04-11-2003, 04:30 AM
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In a recent article in 'American Rodder' magazine they used a hi-temp silicone sealant (containing copper) to seal up some copper gaskets on headers - though that was with flat gaskets. You could try a bead around the Orings?

I guess the o-rings are meant to crush & seal - are you torqing them up slowly & evenly?

Sorry can't help, Limey
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Old 04-11-2003, 12:16 PM
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HEY TRICK: I had header exhaust leaks and I tried those copper gaskets a couple of time. On the Rat Gasket instruction sheet it stated that you could anneal them ( make softer) by putting in oven at 450 degrees for one hour. I did not have much luck with them. I found that the $ 8.00 gaskets from NAPA gave me the best life. They are the high temp cardboard with a soft aluminum facing that will form to the header. Problem is headers warp and break the seal. PermaTex also makes a high temp silcone sealer that helps whatever you use. GOOD LUCK...DAVE Another hint: If you use BBC size gasket they fit the shape of header better than SBC.....
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Old 04-11-2003, 12:30 PM
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450F in an oven won't do the job of annealing copper. You need to get the copper red hot with a torch then cool it any way you want, even quench in water and it will be dead soft. I took an art class in college in ornamental metal working. Hammering pots from brass and copper and such. This is how we kept the metal soft enough to hammer it into a complete sphere if we wanted to. We just kept annealing it when it work hardened and it kept bending more and more. This will be your best chance to get your gaskets to seal. If you had cast iron headers, the copper would seal for life 'cause the iron header would be very rigid and flat so it would deform the copper. Problem is that the copper is too stiff compared to the relatively flexible header flange so you can't compress it uniformly. White Mr. Gasket header material is a little softer and may seal better. Be sure your header flanges are as flat as possible by placing a straight edge on them and grinding them as needed. Otherwise nothing is going to seal.
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Old 04-11-2003, 01:06 PM
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I bought the percey "dead soft" aluminum for my cuda and it took care of every thing. I haveny had any problem with them yet excepty they are pricey I paid 34.99 for the set from jegs!!!! hope this helps. Joel
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Old 04-11-2003, 10:16 PM
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Well I ended up using the $19.00 black gaskets from Mr. Gasket that have graphite in them......Sealed up fine.....no problems......Thanks for all the replys so quickly....
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Old 04-12-2003, 02:13 PM
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With headers I have always used stock type exhaust manifold gaskets with a ring of Permatex Hi-temp Copper Silicone around the port. I also do this on header to pipe flanges and manifold to pipe flanges. Let the silicone set up per instructions and then evenly tighten down. You'll never have a problem....
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Old 04-12-2003, 09:56 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Dave E Shank:
<strong>Another hint: If you use BBC size gasket they fit the shape of header better than SBC.....</strong><hr></blockquote>

Now how are you gonna do that? Big block has even spacing on the exhaust and small block pairs the inner two ports <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />

[ April 13, 2003: Message edited by: reddwarf ]</p>
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Old 04-12-2003, 11:55 PM
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Do you have round ports or square? I mistakenly bought square port copper gaskets and they leaked like crazy. I switched to round port ones and they sealed perfectly better than anything I have ever used and this is on a blown motor.
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Old 04-13-2003, 06:20 AM
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here is a trick, aneal the gaskets and mount it useing RTV. now this is going to cause an outcry of posts calling me all kinds of names, but haveing worked as an engineer at a gasket manufacturing company, i do know what i am talking about. the RTV is a room temperature vulcanizeing silicone sealer (hence the name RTV) the compound it self wont stand up to the heat, but will break down leaveing a residue of silicium which will seal your joint effectively.
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Old 12-10-2006, 08:16 AM
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Follow-up regarding longevity

In '94 I installed a set on my 354 hemi. Used black Permatex.
Pulled the heads in 2000 to do a valve job, annealed the gaskets and put 'em back on w/ Black Permatex.
Just pulled the heads a couple of weeks ago to do another valve job.

Never had a leak and there's no evidence of a leak even on the verge of breaking through.

Just happened to find this thread whilst looking for the oven temp to anneal the gaskets again. Six years is a long time to remember the oven temp.

BTW, I use these copper gaskets on the collectors, too.

YMMV
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trick66
Well I ended up using the $19.00 black gaskets from Mr. Gasket that have graphite in them......Sealed up fine.....no problems......Thanks for all the replys so quickly....
That's exactly what I did. I used some copper spray gasket on it, loc-tite red on the threads, torqued 'em down hard but evenly, and 20,000 miles later, no leaks.
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