This probably isn't too exciting for the veterans around here but nobody else I can think of sharing with cares even remotely so... here is the results of a few hours of work. All piping is 3/4 and the cheapo grade (M or L I forget which). This is my first time soldering anything so hopefully I did it right. So far I've only had to cut off one piece, a coupling. I'm getting a Quincy 2V41C60VC which will sit on the right side of the shelves. BTW the slope is for water drainage not head room for the pumpkins The only thing that scared me so far was soldering on the ball valve for the first drain. I thought I was going to melt the internals!
Thanks for the encouragement folks! I considered PVC, but figured copper was safest (from shattering, big swings in temps in the northeast) and of course copper is corrosion proof from moisture.
I do have a big question on the end outlet. Most of the filters and regulators look like they are 3/8 inlets & outlets which seems to defeat the purpose of the 3/4 piping I'm using. Any recommendations? Also, do I need multiple outlets for different uses such as painting on one outlet and tools on another?
I have several quick connects on mine but what you should do is study your layout to cover all the "what ifs" I have one regulated hook up and a seperate oiler for tools also mutiple full air spread around the shop.The best thing you can invest in is coaleser to help keep the air dry.
Understood on the oiler. How about 1 outlet and then use inline oilers for the tools? Using quick releases I could have a dedicated paint line vs. a tool line?
Pvc should not be used in an exposed area. I ran pvc 2 ft underground 150 ft from the shop to the house at my old house, and heavy wall copper up and out to have an air outlet at the carport. Pvc will deteriate if exposed to sunlight and will shatter.
PVC can and has caused some serious accidents and has been banned by both OSHA and MSHA for use with compressed gas including air and for a darn good reason, it's dangerous! PVC shatters easily and becomes brittle with age especially if exposed to sunlight and when it shatters it throws razor sharp shards in all directions with a heck of a lot of force. To make matters worse when you get the bleeding stopped and get to the ER those embedded shards will not show on an X-Ray! ain:
Pointing to an old PVC system as proof it's safe is not going to do it either because these systems just get more likely to rupture as they age, an old system is just a time bomb not proof it's safe!
Pvc should not be used in an exposed area. I ran pvc 2 ft underground 150 ft from the shop to the house at my old house, and heavy wall copper up and out to have an air outlet at the carport. Pvc will deteriate if exposed to sunlight and will shatter.
PVC can be used if it's buried deep enough and also it's permitted if it's run inside approved metal conduit, if running inside metal pipe why bother with the PVC? As far as PVC deterioration it will deteriorate faster in sunlight but it will also deteriorate inside a shop, besides it does not have to deteriorate to be dangerous and even new pipe can rupture. Also a blow that would maybe dent Copper (and not even scratch iron pipe) could cause even new PVC to rupture and when it does it does not just spring a leak, damage to even a tiny area can cause a pipe to rupture along a length of several feet and throw those potentially deadly shards in all directions.
PVC also retains heat, hot air means moisture. There is simply NO REASON to use PVC when plumbing it properly only takes a little more time and money, very little more.
Todd, using 3/8" reducer fittings will not defeat the purpose of the 3/4" pipe. Using the 3/4" pipe will allow the system to be much more efficient than if it was plumbed with 3/8" pipe- even if reducers are used.
looks good, this subject has been discussed many times here, so it is exciting to us. :thumbup:
this kind of stuff makes our life (hobby or job) better or easier.
Get ready for the worlds DUMBEST question! If this has fixed threads and goes into female fittings with fixed threads (meaning nothing spins....) how do you screw it on????
The only thing I can think of is I have to screw it onto the compressor ball valve first, then attach the pipe side fitting, then solder to the pipe. But that is a one way road...
Thanks for the flex line advise Johnnyk81. I'll look into it.
For the copper, here is an update. I finished all the soldering runs. My concrete bit decided to give up the ghost so I still have to anchor the piple at the outlet area and that final water trap, but I'm otherwise complete. I will have to solder in (or SharkBite) something at the compressor end but I'm still pondering what my flex line will be...
All in all its a good 35+ feet 3/4" copper. I can't say I want a career as a plumber after this project. I just hope there are no leaks!
here is the second half of the run:
I put in two stair stepped runs with water traps
For the filter I'm reducing to 1/2 and I purchased this SharkBite connector, so I can attach it to the filter and then simply slide the assembly on. Should work..
Get ready for the worlds DUMBEST question! If this has fixed threads and goes into female fittings with fixed threads (meaning nothing spins....) how do you screw it on????
The only thing I can think of is I have to screw it onto the compressor ball valve first, then attach the pipe side fitting, then solder to the pipe. But that is a one way road...
I see... so that union fitting is two parts? Did you use and pluming putty inside the nut for a seal or just crank it down? ... and thanks for the idea!
I do have a big question on the end outlet. Most of the filters and regulators look like they are 3/8 inlets & outlets which seems to defeat the purpose of the 3/4 piping I'm using. Any recommendations? Also, do I need multiple outlets for different uses such as painting on one outlet and tools on another?
use a 1/2 or 3/4 filter/regulator or you will choke your system.
go to grainger.com look at the left margin you will see lots of regulators in 1/2 and 3/4. you can also narrow the search by cfm.
don't use the junk at home depot, they are all 1/4 or 3/8.
we have a 3/4 right after the compressor set at 80psi sometimes we crank it up to 100psi. we also have line regulators at the spray booth and a few work stations.
in my home shop i have a 1/2'' high volume regulator/filter at the compressor set at 80psi and then also a plug in regulator for when i need it. my upholstery stapler works best at 25 to 40 psi and my powder coat system requires 10-12 psi.
I see... so that union fitting is two parts? Did you use and pluming putty inside the nut for a seal or just crank it down? ... and thanks for the idea!
I don't think the yellow flex is rated for high enough pressure for compressed air. It seems like the plumbers only used 15 or 20 pounds when they pressureized the house ghas lines for the building permit inspection
The 3/4'' pipe will allow the water to slow down and drop out of the air stream better than a smaller diameter pipe. More volume is better. ya done good. :thumbup:
I don't think the yellow flex is rated for high enough pressure for compressed air. It seems like the plumbers only used 15 or 20 pounds when they pressureized the house ghas lines for the building permit inspection
Yeah I'm not going to chance it. I'll just get the TP Tools one.
So folks... The whole regulator / filter selections are annoying me. Too many choices! Should I go with a Sharpe 606A or one of the SpeedAire or Wilkerson from Grainger? Are they all equivalent?
Should I cut off that 1/2" pipe I soldered in for an outlet and go with 3/4" or does it matter? Am I over thinking this???
EDIT:
I'm going to use a very obscure quote from a semi obscure film "Excalibur" when Arthur is trying to pry an answer out of Merlin, who never answers questions directly. Sometimes when questions get asked here and the experts dodge a strait recommendation it pops into my head....
So in regards to the filters : No poetry. Just a straight answer. Which is it?!?
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