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Old 04-20-2011, 06:48 PM
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Copper Progress

This probably isn't too exciting for the veterans around here but nobody else I can think of sharing with cares even remotely so... here is the results of a few hours of work. All piping is 3/4 and the cheapo grade (M or L I forget which). This is my first time soldering anything so hopefully I did it right. So far I've only had to cut off one piece, a coupling. I'm getting a Quincy 2V41C60VC which will sit on the right side of the shelves. BTW the slope is for water drainage not head room for the pumpkins The only thing that scared me so far was soldering on the ball valve for the first drain. I thought I was going to melt the internals!


progress so far

another view

heading back up to the ceiling

more copper to go

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Old 04-20-2011, 06:58 PM
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Keep us posted on the progress.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:07 PM
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Well I'm an old coot and I think you are doing a good job.
Did you consider using PVC ?
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:20 PM
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Thanks for the encouragement folks! I considered PVC, but figured copper was safest (from shattering, big swings in temps in the northeast) and of course copper is corrosion proof from moisture.

I do have a big question on the end outlet. Most of the filters and regulators look like they are 3/8 inlets & outlets which seems to defeat the purpose of the 3/4 piping I'm using. Any recommendations? Also, do I need multiple outlets for different uses such as painting on one outlet and tools on another?

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:30 PM
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Great routing. It makes a huge difference in moisture.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:33 PM
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I have several quick connects on mine but what you should do is study your layout to cover all the "what ifs" I have one regulated hook up and a seperate oiler for tools also mutiple full air spread around the shop.The best thing you can invest in is coaleser to help keep the air dry.
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:30 PM
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Understood on the oiler. How about 1 outlet and then use inline oilers for the tools? Using quick releases I could have a dedicated paint line vs. a tool line?

I was thinking of this:

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...r+control+unit

I would need a reducer fitting to go from 3/4 to 1/2 and this threaded fitting:

http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Pi...atalogId=10053
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Old 04-20-2011, 09:38 PM
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pvc a no no

Pvc should not be used in an exposed area. I ran pvc 2 ft underground 150 ft from the shop to the house at my old house, and heavy wall copper up and out to have an air outlet at the carport. Pvc will deteriate if exposed to sunlight and will shatter.
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool hero
Did you consider using PVC ?


OH NO not that $*&^ again!


NEVER,NEVER, EVER use PVC for an air line-NEVER!!

PVC can and has caused some serious accidents and has been banned by both OSHA and MSHA for use with compressed gas including air and for a darn good reason, it's dangerous! PVC shatters easily and becomes brittle with age especially if exposed to sunlight and when it shatters it throws razor sharp shards in all directions with a heck of a lot of force. To make matters worse when you get the bleeding stopped and get to the ER those embedded shards will not show on an X-Ray!

Pointing to an old PVC system as proof it's safe is not going to do it either because these systems just get more likely to rupture as they age, an old system is just a time bomb not proof it's safe!
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Old 04-20-2011, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
Pvc should not be used in an exposed area. I ran pvc 2 ft underground 150 ft from the shop to the house at my old house, and heavy wall copper up and out to have an air outlet at the carport. Pvc will deteriate if exposed to sunlight and will shatter.

PVC can be used if it's buried deep enough and also it's permitted if it's run inside approved metal conduit, if running inside metal pipe why bother with the PVC? As far as PVC deterioration it will deteriorate faster in sunlight but it will also deteriorate inside a shop, besides it does not have to deteriorate to be dangerous and even new pipe can rupture. Also a blow that would maybe dent Copper (and not even scratch iron pipe) could cause even new PVC to rupture and when it does it does not just spring a leak, damage to even a tiny area can cause a pipe to rupture along a length of several feet and throw those potentially deadly shards in all directions.
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:49 PM
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PVC also retains heat, hot air means moisture. There is simply NO REASON to use PVC when plumbing it properly only takes a little more time and money, very little more.


Nice project Todd, looking good!

Brian
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Old 04-20-2011, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002
Most of the filters and regulators look like they are 3/8 inlets & outlets which seems to defeat the purpose of the 3/4 piping I'm using.
Todd, using 3/8" reducer fittings will not defeat the purpose of the 3/4" pipe. Using the 3/4" pipe will allow the system to be much more efficient than if it was plumbed with 3/8" pipe- even if reducers are used.
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Old 04-21-2011, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
PVC also retains heat, hot air means moisture.Brian
That reason alone is more than enough to not use PVC even if it was safe to use.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:34 AM
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looks good, this subject has been discussed many times here, so it is exciting to us.
this kind of stuff makes our life (hobby or job) better or easier.
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Old 04-21-2011, 05:35 AM
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Get ready for the worlds DUMBEST question! If this has fixed threads and goes into female fittings with fixed threads (meaning nothing spins....) how do you screw it on????

The only thing I can think of is I have to screw it onto the compressor ball valve first, then attach the pipe side fitting, then solder to the pipe. But that is a one way road...

Like I said its a stupid question!


http://www.tptools.com/pl/Images,85-...etal-Hose.html
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