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You should really wait until the truck is fully weighted with engine, cab etc.
Then, find a shock that is compressed 1/4- 1/3 of it's travel when installed and the truck sitting at ride height. The shock needs to compress fully, allowing the axle or spring pack to contact the rubber bumpstop. In other words, you don't want the shock to limit your suspension in it's compression. It is ok if the shock limits the extension of the suspension, most suspension designs use the shock as a limit. Hope this helps Mikey
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my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular.. BE different....ACT normal. No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example |
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stude shocks
I have a 57 stude transtar I used 1988 ford ranger rear shocks they work great I allso used them on the front I had to extend the bracket one inch longer to get right distance hope this helps. Do you have original steering I am upgrading to power and could youse some help thanks. Oh yah I have a 350 chevy in it with turb 350 bigblockbob
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steering
Bob, I really want to keep with my original steering box etc! Do you have a picture of your steering box attached to your frame? If not can you tell me how far your original steering box is from the front of your frame rail, and is it attached below the rail or even or above? I am doing a frame off and I didn't take a darn pic of it first,(dumb) Does anyone have a picture of an original 1951 2R-5 steering box attached? Thanks, Dana
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stude steering
I have several pictures of my frame with steering pics I will dig them up and send them to you I dont how far from front of frame I shortened my fromt so the bumper tucks under the grill instead of sticking out I used the rear bumper up front. I will be taking the front clip off again to set up steering and to prep the cab for paint. My new turner brake setup works like a cadilac incase you want upgrade your truck. SEEEYAAA bigblockbob
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