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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 01:56 PM
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Thanks Ray, got the info.

Wish I was like you. If I don't get a full 8 I'm useless.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 02:02 PM
put up or shut up
 

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same here. A good night's rest is very underrated. I usually get less than 8 per day but at least once a week I'll make up for it and the next day is when I feel my best.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:26 PM
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Called more suppliers today, found two in the U.S. that will be back to me monday with quotes on PPG / Dupont Base. Called doug at SPI, will try again monday, hoping to go with thier primer and clear still, also found a supplier here if I decide to go with omni.

Took a bunch more pics and made my photobucket private for viewing , its an album called paint and body work

Paint And Body Work Photos by 99tjadams | Photobucket

Hoping to get a more solid opinion on weather to strip all the paint or not.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 08:45 PM
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If your looking for base coat and your considering the VOC compliant product we have here in Canada...I would suggest paying a few more dollars, drive to Seattle, walk to Seattle...No I'd run to Seattle and pick up either PPG's Deltron solvent based Base Coat or Dupont's Chroma Premiere...it's well worth the money and the time. I was a Rep for PPG and their Value line, Omni, just like Nason for Dupont is quite low on the value. I know your looking to get a solid green for your TA so you wouldn't need to worry about metallic control which is a big issue for the value lines...another big issue is coverage, by the time you have saved all that money buying Omni and applying 5 coats of base or more to get coverage, you could have gotten coverage with Deltron in 2 or 3 coats...but that would mean a trip to Seattle.

The wait is worth it for the SPI, Epoxy and clear, and the price is right as well. I haven't looked at your photo bucket yet but will shortly and get back to you.

And by all means get more opinions on stripping the car...it's what you should do.

Ray
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:33 PM
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I took a look a your photo's and I can appreciate that stripping the car isn't something that you where looking forward to...I would ask you how much do you like the car, how long do you plan on keeping it and wouldn't you feel better knowing what underneath the paint...especially after your going to the time and trouble to paint it?

Look at it this way, it should cost you about $100 tops to strip the car with 80 Grit on a DA...You still need filler, you still need to weld in patch panels, you still need primer...and by spending the extra $100, your getting cheap insurance and you know what's underneath your paint. You mentioned it only had 1 paint job over top the original and the car is a 1977? That would make the substrate on the metal now 36 years old. I know I'd feel better with a new substrate to paint over top of and by investing $100 you can have that clean substrate and know that there isn't any more rust lurking underneath the old paint.

Just my thoughts and if I liked a car and I was going to paint it, I wouldn't hesitate to strip it.

Hope you get more responses.

Ray
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:02 AM
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I think that post sums it up. If I go ahead with painting it should be stripped. The engine won't be complete until Dec (porting heads this sept while im working in camp 6 weeks). I think once I have all my materials lined up I will start stripping and bribe someone to come over and do some patch work. Hopefully I get some reasonable prices on paint monday and get in touch with SPI. I'm in camp for the next two weeks, so besides ordering I will hopefully get started then. By the way, this forum is a huge help to me, just as jeep forum was when building my jeep and garagejournal was when doing my epoxy floor, and a dozen others, how this was all done before the internet amazes me.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2013, 08:27 AM
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You have the luxury of time...When you can build a car and not have a hard and fast deadline you can do a much better job. You've made the right choice and when your car is done, you will know that it was done right...Painting a car properly isn't cheap and if a car is painted on the cheap that's exactly what your going to get. If it's done right the first time, you can get years of enjoyment out of it...done wrong, or not done as you said by taking the "correct steps", you might get 6 months of enjoyment and then rust will start coming through again and all that time, searching for answers, materials and money spent will haunt you and the common phrases used in 6 months when done wrong are....woulda, coulda, shoulda.

Congratulations, you won't regret your decision.

Ray
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2013, 08:38 AM
put up or shut up
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99tjadams View Post
Called more suppliers today, found two in the U.S. that will be back to me monday with quotes on PPG / Dupont Base. Called doug at SPI, will try again monday, hoping to go with thier primer and clear still, also found a supplier here if I decide to go with omni.

Took a bunch more pics and made my photobucket private for viewing , its an album called paint and body work

Paint And Body Work Photos by 99tjadams | Photobucket

Hoping to get a more solid opinion on weather to strip all the paint or not.

get a backing pad for a buffer, cause you'll need a buffer later on after you paint. Then you can put 40 grit on your buffer with a slow speed and buzz that paint right off. Use a DA for roofs and decklids. Using a DA on that whole car will take forever.
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:14 PM
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if it were me i would remove the doors to to weld the patch panels,those doors will warp easily if left on. lay them on sawhorses flat to weld. ive found that the low voc canadian dupont nason products work better than ppg omni lowvoc , good luck
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:40 AM
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Doug was great to deal with, epoxy and cleaner is on its way, hopefully getting the base from the lower 48.
If there are other canadians reading this in the future I called a lot of people to track these down, hopefully im allowed to post them.
Horizon in langley sells dupont/nason
Pacific western paint and kms tools sell ppg omni
Chase autobody sells sikkens
Shirwin williams atx is at 604 299 0929
Lordco and kms tools sell dp50lv
But as far as primers go, as fsaid above why not deal with doug kennedy SPI.

By the way I threw a razor blade scraper at the paint, wow that works well, and no dust, way way faster and cleaner then sanding to get the top coat off.
I have a 7" buffer so I may try that, just worried about the heat, i"ll be starting on the hood when im back in two weeks as its off the car allready. Going to sharpen up some scrapers.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2013, 12:00 PM
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Glad to hear that all's coming together, the fact that you can take the paint off with a razor blade is even more reason to strip the car. Can you imagine painting over top of paint that comes off that easily?

When you start stripping the car, be sure to keep your sandpaper sharp...when paper gets dull, you generate even more heat and have greater risk of warping the panel

Good Luck and keep us posted.

Ray
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:06 PM
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I'm sure this is asked a lot but am ordering base tomorrow and am thinking 1.5 gallons will be enough for a fourth coat if need be, and if not I will have extra for repainting plastic and endura bumpers in the future, or extra for screwing up a coat ect. This is a pain for me to get, but figured two gallons would be overkill. It will be PPI Deltron DBC very dark green on black SPI epoxy with SPI reducer using a devilbiss HVLP gun.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 06:45 PM
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I don't know how the person who is painting your car paints but 1.5 gallons is lots of base coat. Reduced it should take 1.5 US quarts per coat maximum which means that you do in fact have enough for 4 full wet coats of base. PPG Deltron covers well and the fact that you are going over top of a dark grey/black primer and the color is dark, it should cover in 2 coats. That being said, if you don't have a mixing system it's always a better idea to have more paint on hand than you need, there's nothing worse than running out in the middle of a paint job. Just a tip...don't reduce all the base coat...reduce what it as you need it and when your done make sure it's sealed up real good and tight...it'll last for years then.

Ray
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2013, 09:21 AM
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update

thought I'd give an update
Spent some time building a paint booth with all the useful info here.
Started stripping paint, here is what I am finding







top layer comes off really easy with a razor, dark grey under it sands off, factory paint below it is a real pain to wheel/sand off, primer under it is easy.
Just wanted to make sure I was still doing the right thig to take the whole car to metal and not just scrape the crappy top layer.

I also wanted to get opinions on the rear I found patched, there was up to 3/8 filler in areas, is this normal/o.k. to smooth the welds out a little more and re-fill with that much filler or should I be looking at trying to pull out the dips more?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2013, 09:35 AM
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3/8th of an inch of filler is to much...that's one of the reasons that the filler is cracking. I can't see the previous repairs in the pictures so it's hard for me to give you concrete advice but, chances are you would be better off to replace the previous repair with new metal. If the filler is cracking it's because it was put on to thick (1/4 of an inch, which is what most filler manufacturer's recommend to be the maximum depth or amount of filler, is more than what I would ever put on on one spot, let alone 3/8 of an inch and when you dig the filler out, chances are you find rust underneath it). When filler cracks, water gets in the cracks and filler is a sponge and will suck up moisture causing the metal underneath to rot.

Yes, with out a doubt, you are doing the right thing taking the car down to bare metal.

Ray
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