Correcting Weld Warpage? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2003, 10:54 AM
TurboS10's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Auto Terms and Definitions Used in Modern Engine T... Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Texas
Age: 37
Posts: 3,463
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post Correcting Weld Warpage?

Need some help guys. I just finished my custom cowl hood for the s-10 and have some warpage. I am wondering if any of you have tryed to correct this with a torch. I have heard it can be done, but I am not sure of the techique. I am thinking that heating the low spots so they will come up to flush will help, but I am just not sure. Any help would be appriciated.

I can just float it with filler, but I thought I might try to correct some of it first.

chris

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-19-2003, 02:23 PM
Halloweenking's Avatar
Fantastically cannibalistic!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Spooksville
Posts: 1,353
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Using a torch to correct warpage is indeed the way to go, but it is deffinatly not for the weekend body guy. It takes a long time to get the process perfected and during that time you can burn through sheetmetal left and right. Any of these guys will tell you the same thing. Go the safer route, use a dimpling/shrinking hammer and a light coat of filler to smooth it out.
The torch method unless you've done it before shouldn't be attenpted on a peice of metal you need. Heat the high areas to a pale orange hot and the rate which it cools will shrink the metal, fast rate of cooling (using cold water) will shrink more, slower cooling less shrinkage. It is VERY easy to burn through so be careful if you try this.

HK
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2003, 11:38 AM
TurboS10's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Auto Terms and Definitions Used in Modern Engine T... Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Texas
Age: 37
Posts: 3,463
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I think I might try it. If I burn it, then I'll just have to get another hood. I only did this to see if I could make it look good enough that I would not have to spend the money on a new cowl hood. Plus I was able to make the cowl a bit wider than if I bought a hood. Kindof adds personality when things arnt run of the mill.

Thanks HK,

Chris
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2003, 01:31 PM
deuce_454's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Age: 39
Posts: 1,000
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Post

you can also buy a carbon tip for your CO2 welder, it screws into the thread where copper wire nozle fits, you simply remove the tension on the wirefeed wheel. take the gas cup and wire nozle off and screw in the grafite tip. That way you can adjust the heat going into the panel on the amp regulator on the welder. you simply depress the trigger (remember the ground..)and work your way inwards in a spiral starting in a 2 inch circle. and when the panel is pale orange/cherry red you cool the spot with a wet rag. iv etried it and it worked ok, but i havent dared do it on the roof of my 65 mustang yet... ill leave that one to a pro...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2003, 12:56 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Dallas Ga
Posts: 56
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

If you have a stud gun you can get a shrinking electrode for it and heat it in various places and quench it like all the other techniques. I have tried this and it works real well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2003, 05:16 PM
Gearhead forever's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Elora, Ontario, Canada
Age: 46
Posts: 458
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I can't remember the name of the system, but it consists of a large rippled steel disk that you use on a grinder. You pass the disc over the high spots and it heats up and shrinks. Its supposed to be a safer way on larger panels. It also doesn't remove any material. Must be god-awfull noisy. As soon as I see it again I'll add it to this thread. Seems to me I read it in Streetrod builder or Street Rodder mag. Good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2003, 09:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: north arolina
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

If youyve never used this technic dont try it if your drag racen a nice shrinking hammer and some kitty hare will do the job if you want it straight for show take it to your leading body shop let them do the finishing touches
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2003, 03:30 PM
onebadmerc's Avatar
I need a bucket of arc sparks
 
Last wiki edit: How to identify SB Ford heads without pulling them
Last journal entry: trunk floor
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Florence Colorado
Age: 43
Posts: 901
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I completely agree with Halloweenking if you haven't done this before go a different route, you can actually make it alot worse.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2003, 06:47 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 4839 university ave ne. columbia hgts mn. 55421
Posts: 49
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

I have used heat to lift hail dents many times the older cars with milder steel it worked pretty well. In 1998 we had a big hail storm and I tried it on newer cars, the metal is harder and thinner and more brittle I had bad results on hoods ok results on roofs. Warpage is different on metal than a dent I,ve never tried that on a hood but I think heat will give you the opposite results of what you are looking for. But if you are experimenting I,d hope you will post your results.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.