Originally Posted by bigblockragtop
I am not sure about the gap but 35 is where I used to keep mine. Oil can cause detonation too. I would try just changing the gas first. Do not forget there is also winter and summer formulas. So if you do not drive the car a lot you could have the wrong season gas in it. Also with the ethanol in gas it goes bad fast. If you don't drive it a lot put some stabilizer in it. Or what I did was used some 100 octane plane fuel. I know it is not totally recommended but if you do not drive the car a lot the plane fuel does not go bad. Drive that car letting it wit will kill it. At least get it up to temp once a month to get the contaminants out of the engine. Don't mess with the timing until you try the simple stuff first.
I've never had to use 100 plus octane fuel in the past. The engine builder claims the following:
HOWEVER, IN DESIGNING YOUR OWN HIGH PERFORMANCE ENGINE, WE ARE NOT LIMITED TO HOLDING ALL THINGS EQUAL AND CAN COMBINE PROPERLY MATCHED COMPONENTS TO REDUCE AN ENGINES OCTANE REQUIREMENT EVEN WITH HIGHER STATIC COMPRESSION.
C) SINCE VALVE TIMING CONTROL DYNAMIC CYLINDER PRESSURE, WE CAN USE THE CAMSHAFT TO LOWER THE OCTANE REQUIREMENT. ENGINE DAMAGING DETONATION TYPICALLY OCCURS AT LOW RPM. THIS IS BECAUSE OF THE COOLING EFFECT FROM INCREASED CYLINDER ACTIVITY ABOVE 2,800RPM. THIS IS WHY WE USE CAMS WITH 240+ DEGREES DURATION @ .050" ON 110 LOBE CENTERS WITH 2,400 TO 2,800 STALL CONVERTERS TO SUCESSFULLY RUN ENGINES ON PREMIUM PUMP FUEL AT 11.0:1 COMPRESSION.