cost effectiveness - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:28 PM
chevelle_502's Avatar
Get out the ducktape...
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: Front brakes
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Age: 28
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cost effectiveness

So heres my dilemna. On the 68 chrysler I started digging into the brakes. I hit the front first and right off the bat im hitting the wall. The best I can find for the brake drums is about $50 apiece. Plus shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, bearings, and seeing as how the pedal is froze Im sure the master cylinder is shot my mediocre math skills are coming up with about $300 in just the front brakes and just browsing Im thinking another $150 give or take for the rear. Now I will take answers to several questions.

1. Anybody know some good sites with better prices for the parts Im hunting?
2.Any of those same people know where I could find a comparably priced disc conversion for this not soo mainstream application?


Finally get the right parts comin to make it go and I dont have the stuff to make it stop....go figure.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:40 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: williamston sc
Posts: 319
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Why go with all new stuff? Do a rebuild yourself and save alot.Those drums can be turned,wheel cylinders rebuilt same as the master cylinder.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:59 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: hamilton ont. canada
Age: 39
Posts: 180
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
if there is one thing you shouldn't skimp or learn how to rebuild without physical guidance from others its brakes.

save,beg,borrow and get the best parts money can buy.
oem replacement or aftermarket upgrade you pick but i would get the good stuff

http://www.jcwhitney.com/front-4-pis...estid=10572893
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 04:40 AM
chevelle_502's Avatar
Get out the ducktape...
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: Front brakes
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Age: 28
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The drums are worn so thin the parts house wont turn them anymore.


And as much as Id like to go with a kit like SSBC its still a little much right now, I can redo everything new and keep the drums for less than the conversion for just the front.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 10:35 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,578
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 61 Times in 39 Posts
Take this for what it is worth but here is my two cents.

Ten or so years ago Converted front brakes on wifes 57 to a disc set up from a t-bird house, yes I paid but 25,000 mile later they still work like new.

Then last summer almost wiped the car out in TN when I had to slam the brakes on at most likley doing
around 70 MPH and missed by inches and I could feel the rears fade and then fronts locked after the rears gave out.

Not sure what I was thinking but I bought the rear conversion from Summit or Jegs because of price, a car apprised at $83,000 and bought to save a few hundred bucks-duh.

Biggest piece of crap ever had on a car (gm metrics) used for a 1,000 miles and ordered a kit fro SSBC, took the old ones off and one pad was cracked, one had a 1/2 chunk missing. (damn 7 year old china workers)

I would not give this unit away or sell it, threw it in the back of Sequoia and dumped the whole chitin kaboo in the dumpster that Monday.
Best, just under $400 I ever threw away.

I say, if you don't have the money, then wait and do it right.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 12:29 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 60
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevelle_502
So heres my dilemna. On the 68 chrysler I started digging into the brakes. I hit the front first and right off the bat im hitting the wall. The best I can find for the brake drums is about $50 apiece. Plus shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, bearings, and seeing as how the pedal is froze Im sure the master cylinder is shot my mediocre math skills are coming up with about $300 in just the front brakes and just browsing Im thinking another $150 give or take for the rear. Now I will take answers to several questions.

1. Anybody know some good sites with better prices for the parts Im hunting?
2.Any of those same people know where I could find a comparably priced disc conversion for this not soo mainstream application?


Finally get the right parts comin to make it go and I dont have the stuff to make it stop....go figure.
Those prices are very reasonable for new parts, IMO. I spent about $350 for the brakes on a '80 Malibu- common parts- so your estimate for the "road less traveled" MOPAR sounds right to me.

I believe that unless repeated hard stops that will fade drum brakes are anticipated, that properly adjusted and maintained drum brakes will work satisfactorily. Grabbing in wet conditions has also been a problem w/some drum systems, but once you're used to them, they will stop the vehicle if you do your job. But I agree- they're not discs.

If it was me, I'd use the front disc brake set up from a '70-'73 C body. The '73 set up was preferred because new '73 rotors cost less than the '70-'72 rotors but the '70-'72 rotors have come down some in price.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 02:07 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 54
Posts: 2,372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 31 Times in 25 Posts
Yep----be looking for a big 73 Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge.
Will bolt right on with no issues whatsoever.
(may need to use the 73 porportioning valve)

I did this on my 67 300 back in the 80s.
Was originally equipped with the Budd 4 piston calipers and 2-piece rotors.
Even then the calipers wer well over $150 each, rotors were $110 each and the lower ball joint on this car was $100.

Ripped everything out (shoulda kept it all) and put in lower control arms, spindles, rotors and calipers from a 73 Fury. Car stopped just fine and replacement parts were 25% the cost of the original disc system.
Wish I still had that car----stolen in 89----still my all time favorite car
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 02:12 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 54
Posts: 2,372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 31 Times in 25 Posts
Oh---By the way
I just spent over $300 for parts to do the brakes on my 65 Ranchero.
And only got the rear done.
Still need to get front drums, shoes and hardware to finish----another $150.
But will have new brakes, wheel cylinders and master.

Brakes went out last friday on my way to work
Had to call the spouse to come and get me so I could get the Ranger to tow the Ranchero home.

At least it is stopping now-----but still have to get the front done
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 03:53 PM
chevelle_502's Avatar
Get out the ducktape...
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: Front brakes
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Age: 28
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Im not saying that those prices are necessarily high just a little high for the budget right now. A conversion from another vehicle was the ideal solution and Ill definitely pursue that. There is a manual out there that lists pretty much every interchangeable part between all domestic vechicles but I forgot the name of it. So any 70-73 c body mopar is what Im lookin for right? Plannin a junkyard raid in the near future anyways so ill just add that to the list.

Another reason Im wantin to go with discs is just from the searchin Ive been doin the last two days it seems like parts for this particular car are becoming hard to come by.


just in case the google search doesnt answer me good enough what are the best c bodies to be lookin for?

Last edited by chevelle_502; 04-26-2011 at 04:02 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 07:10 PM
chevelle_502's Avatar
Get out the ducktape...
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: Front brakes
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Age: 28
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Found out the book I was referring to was hollander interchange. Looked it up and its on the way. After the good advice I looked up some 73 dodge polara parts and I think I can get those disc parts for a conversion for about the same price I can redo the drums on it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 09:15 PM
Bryan59EC's Avatar
Car? Truck? Who Cares
 

Last journal entry: First week of December
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Age: 54
Posts: 2,372
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 31 Times in 25 Posts
Full size Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouth-----all the same
Not including the Imperial---that is a completely different car----about the only thing that interchanges with that will be the headlights
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2011, 09:55 PM
willowbilly3's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Body mods
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Black Hills, South Dakota
Age: 61
Posts: 1,208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I don't think the prices are too bad either. Depending on where you live, those drum brakes are just fine. The price on the new drums isn't bad and they will make the whole system work like it should. When drums get turned out to the limit, the braking suffers because you don't have as much contact on the shoes.
I also don't mess around with old pitted wheel cylinders, I put on new ones, and new hoses.
You might check rockauto, I can get everything but the drums for my old IH pickup for about $250
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2011, 03:27 PM
chevelle_502's Avatar
Get out the ducktape...
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: Front brakes
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgia
Age: 28
Posts: 213
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah tried rockauto the other day but the vendors with the reasonable prices listed as closeout deals, dont wanna get down the road lookin for some more and cant find them. From what Ive been able to find out the 70-73 c body as listed has some pretty common parts that Im not having much trouble finding. After the roofer comes and gives me an estimate and if I dont pass out goin to the parts house to browse through their computer and see what I can get.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2011, 03:34 PM
willowbilly3's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Body mods
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Black Hills, South Dakota
Age: 61
Posts: 1,208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just because the vendor is closing out doesn't mean some other vendors parts won't fit. Besides you should never need most of this stuff again, at least not for several years.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cowl Induction Effectiveness Ozz1967 Engine 3 12-20-2005 07:38 AM
cost? badknuckles Body - Exterior 10 12-15-2005 05:41 PM
Chemical stripper...cost and effectiveness. Rubberman2003 Body - Exterior 12 03-06-2004 08:09 AM
How much does it cost?? Indian Engine 3 08-22-2003 05:04 PM
cost of a 383 Chevy71 Engine 2 02-21-2003 06:39 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.