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08-25-2004, 09:06 PM
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Crack sealent? New product?
Was stocking the shelf today, came across this stuff called something like cracked block and head gasket sealent. First time I have seen this stuff, has anyone tried it?
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08-25-2004, 09:38 PM
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Who makes it?
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08-25-2004, 11:31 PM
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I've found it to be pretty amazing stuff. My buddy has a fleet of trucks and vans I take care of. Had a blown head gasket or cracked head in the Chevy Astro and I added the stuff as a last ditch effort to keep from junkin the van. The leak stopped up after the engine had reached operating temp and has been fine ever since. He keeps the van in town for local servicing, and uses the newer vehicles for out of town trips. I usually dont believe or recommend "fix in a can" stuff but its still working. This stuff is supposed to harden up in the leak and is catalyzed by the eng heat.
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08-26-2004, 05:59 AM
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Who makes it?
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08-26-2004, 08:14 AM
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FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, MAN, OF IT'S BLUE DEVIL, DON'T USE IT!!!!!!! IT WILL PLUG UP YOUR RADIATOR AND SUCH!!!!!
tom
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08-26-2004, 08:34 AM
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Who makes it?
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08-26-2004, 08:44 PM
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lol, gunk makes it, rofl!!, after asking three times I think you deserve an answer.
I dont know about plugging up your radiator?!? but the copper and aluminum stuff doesnt plug it up. Never tried this stuff before and have no need for it ATM, but would love to try it out on something.
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08-26-2004, 09:26 PM
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I've allways wanted to try ''liquid glass'' on a leaking block....
also known as sodium silicate...... available at the pharmacy.... anyone ever try it?
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08-27-2004, 10:12 PM
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That silvery powdery radiator leak sealant crap clogged up my radiator.
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08-27-2004, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
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08-27-2004, 11:49 PM
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Sodium Silocate (Long, Long Read, sorry!)
[size=3]Doc Here
 My Bro has a 95 Winstar 3.8 V6 EFI, Popped a head-gasket last week, Took it to Ford, they diagnosed it as a head-gasket.had oil to water to compression leaks... Ran like Crap in a Can, check engine light at all times..Blew streams of white smoke AND water out the tail pipe, smelled like a burning building and the oil was gaining level on every run.... Took it to Ford they wanted $5500 to repair the Upper end, And My Bro didnt want to hassle doing a top end on a sideway's mounted engine in a Van with no doghouse himself... So he went out and bought a new SUV, and decided to DONATE the van to Charity... Then thought better of it because of all the hassles you get donating Vehicles ...like the CHP showing up on your door because they thought you hit and ran on somebody, because the charity forgot to register the friggin thing...So he decided to Crush it ... (BTW other than the engine, the car is primo condition, 104k miles..with great upkeep) So I said, since your going to give it away, let me experiment with it..If it fails, you can give it to me, I'll put a new mill in it..or you can still Crush it, If it works, you can still give it to me, or sell it (provided you tell them what we did) He said fine do whatever... So I showed up yesterday on his doorstep with 2 Cans of K&W Block seal, Which is nothing more than Sodium Silicate with Suspended Copper in it....5 qts of oil and a new filter... Ran the Engine to confirm in fact it did all the above , which it did. and only to the point of the thermostat opening, Shut it off and drained the water...flushed and back-flushed it, to get out the oil and anti freeze, Reset the Computer "misfire Code" , Poured the first can in the radiator, refilled it with water, capped it and fired it back up..The instructions say let it run at idle for 30 minutes ... then drain and refill with coolant.. Which we did. In the mean time a small group of neighbor's hung around that were following this disaster for the last week as we were waiting out the 30 minutes..hoisting Beers, and poking fun at the thing.. At 5 minutes of run time , the Smoke out the pipe quit, as well as the misfire....still dripping a small amount of water/condensation out the pipe, but not like before (water was shooting out before) still smelled like a burned out building...Code light remained off..Temp Range at about 1/4 scale...or just below the "P"... At 20 minutes we checked and the condensation quit, no smoke, no misfire , no code light, and the temp doing excursions between the "P" and "M" (you guys with Winstars know that's between 1/4 and just below 1/2 scale.) Yesterday was a 95 degree day here..and this was all at idle... At 30 minutes ... Was running just like nothing ever happened to it!...Temp going between 1/4 and just below 1/2 scale! Fans coming on and off as usual...Still had the smell of a burned out building, (don't know what that was..) We Shut it down, let it cool off naturally for a few hours, then dumped the radiator again...Refilled it with the second can, and water and did the whole process all over again...This time, when the 30 minutes were up and shut it down, and let it cool off..Drained and flushed and we left it empty with cap and drain hole open all night to " AIR DRY" ... Bro went out this morning, filled it with water and 50/50 anti freeze, changed the oil (which didn't gain after the K&W) and put a new filter on it....Today was 105 in the inland bay area..he took it out, drove it around for about 50 miles on surface streets, and freeway, hammered it a few times , it never got hot, ran fine, and oil was clean and proper level. No codes flashing no smoke, no water out the pipe...I think I screwed myself out of a nice van... Now don't get me wrong here, I don't say this is the way to fix this sort of problem at all...and I used this stuff in the past, to limp engines around for 2 reasons, It'll keep you going long enough to get your parts in order..., and when you pull it down, It leaves gold (copper) stains where ever a leak was ...and since we didn't really care about what happened to the van was interested to see what happened.....And to be quite frank, we are still amazed that the stuff worked on an engine that bad off.... It CAN as said before..plug up stuff you don't want plugged up...so get it all out as soon as it cools down...else you will have problems...and also, since it has suspended metal in it , if you had water in the oil...(even if you didn't) ...get All the oil and filter out right away, do it while your waiting for the engine to cool, because it'll eat up your bearings alive....Also if you splash the radiator water on the paint or engine block, get it off while still wet or it'll be there forever!! Bro is going to Hold on to it for awhile and drive it around normally for a few weeks, to see if it holds up...and is going to report back to me on progress...any changes I'll let the board know!! So that's my experience with "Permanent Block Sealers" Story to continue... Sorry for the long post but thought you'd like to hear the steps taken thus far. Doc [/size]
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations Last edited by docvette; 08-28-2004 at 12:31 AM.
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08-28-2004, 02:09 AM
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I used some KW Block Seal on a Pontiac 350 that would squirt water on the #6 spark plug gap & short it out. It worked for several months just driving around town, but when I got on the highway for 15-20 miles, it bit the dust.
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08-28-2004, 09:08 AM
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My aunt had a tired Mercury Sable V6. Head gasket went one day, the cost to fix it was tripple what the car was worth. So my grandfather put in some brand of block sealant. Fixed the problem, and the car ran for another 3 years.
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09-16-2004, 06:37 PM
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Update
[size=3]Doc here:
Just an update, The Winstar is STILL on the road and operating fine on a daily basis...No overheat, oil in the water, or out the pipe! It's is used by Bro's Ol Lady and the neighbor (kids School carpool) Daily and so far on week 4 no adverse effects... BTW, anybody wants a primo Winstar, with the knowledge that it may someday need a head-gasket...Otherwise in imac. condition...104 miles...In The SF Bay area, $3k...offer...PM me.. Doc [/size]
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations
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09-16-2004, 06:47 PM
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Re: Update
Quote:
Sorry, I'll have to pass on the Windstar, I think they are quite possibly the most trouble prone vehicle made in the 90s.  NAIRB
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