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Old 02-06-2004, 01:39 PM
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Question cracked block

any tips on how to fix a cracked block on a 283, it froze bust , 1 crack on inside and one on the outside, i have v'd out the cracked area and ground off suface around it clean but i dont know if i should weld it or would jbweld work. thank you for any replies

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Old 02-06-2004, 02:04 PM
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crack

See your local auto machine shop he can use a product called lock and stitch it works real good must pressure test after wards



mike
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Old 02-06-2004, 04:20 PM
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If your car isn't show quality, requiring numbers matching, ditch that block. Get yourself a roller 350.
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Old 02-06-2004, 06:26 PM
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I used JB Weld on a 4 inch crack on my 331 SBC Vega gasser in the '70's, and it held the entire season. Matter of fact we found the crack at midnight, cleaned it good, torched it, etc., and JB'd it without even grinding it out. Fired it at 7 A. M. and put it on the trailer.

Lock & stitch I haven't heard of and there are probably other new products that would work. Buying a new motor is always best, but not everyone can afford to do that.
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Old 02-06-2004, 06:33 PM
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There are some powder torch welding products out there that can be used to fix cast iron, but if it were me I would get a new block.
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Old 02-06-2004, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
a product called lock and stitch
Stitch & Lock is a Method of Repair,
Not a Product...........

A series of holes are drilled,+ tapped,+ filled with pipe plugs, one at a time, till the crack is Covered......
Each one Overlapping the Previous by 1/4 to 1/3........

Pretty Labor Intensive..........

Unfortunately, Grinding it out has taken this option off the table......
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Old 02-06-2004, 09:32 PM
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Last year I purchased a 327 marine engine that was supposed to be in excellent shape but upon inspection found it to have a 6" long crack from freezing up.
After several weeks of research I found that about 90% of the info on welding castings was bogus.It turns out that engines made after WW2 are almost always cast STEEL not iron.
After talking to many of my contacts on the subject I learned that stitch welding with a mig welder was the best and simpliest way to fix it.
First,V-groove out the crack to get good penetration,use a torch to heat the area enough to burn any grease out of the metal,clean with thinners.then start by button welding each end of the crack to prevent it from spreading.let the area cool.
Next back-stitch about 1/2" in from each end, welding out towards the button weld,then let this cool until you can touch it with your hand.then start your next stitch weld 1/2" in from where you started the first stitch on each end and weld into the previous weld area.let it cool.repeat this process at each end of the crack until the area is sealed completely.
Have the area machined if it needs to be smooth or leave it if not.
Thats all there is to welding cast steel engines.
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Old 02-07-2004, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by superrodder
Last year I purchased a 327 marine engine that was supposed to be in excellent shape but upon inspection found it to have a 6" long crack from freezing up.
After several weeks of research I found that about 90% of the info on welding castings was bogus.It turns out that engines made after WW2 are almost always cast STEEL not iron.
After talking to many of my contacts on the subject I learned that stitch welding with a mig welder was the best and simpliest way to fix it.
First,V-groove out the crack to get good penetration,use a torch to heat the area enough to burn any grease out of the metal,clean with thinners.then start by button welding each end of the crack to prevent it from spreading.let the area cool.
Next back-stitch about 1/2" in from each end, welding out towards the button weld,then let this cool until you can touch it with your hand.then start your next stitch weld 1/2" in from where you started the first stitch on each end and weld into the previous weld area.let it cool.repeat this process at each end of the crack until the area is sealed completely.
Have the area machined if it needs to be smooth or leave it if not.
Thats all there is to welding cast steel engines.
There are no steel blocks... Engine blocks are cast from Iron and aluminum, not steel. Do you realize how much it would cost to cast engine blocks out of steel?
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Old 02-07-2004, 02:17 PM
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The problem with welding cast iron is that if you try to do an isolated weld on it,the weld will break away from one side of the parent metal while it is cooling.This is because the metal rapidly expands when being welded then rapidly contracts when the welding stops,and the result is the weld being the "give point" when the metal contracts.First you need to drill a small hole in both ends of the crack to stop it from spreading.Then you need to heat up the cracked area by applying heat to about 1" of crack at a time.When about an inch of the crack is glowing red,keep the heat on it,and use a stick welder to weld the crack,{you will find you need much less heat to make a good puddle then when the block is cold}.Weld about the center 1/2" of the glowing area,and keep the heat on after you pull the stick away,then slowly back the heat off and allow the glow to reduce slowly over a period of at least 1 full minute,or even better yet,try moving the heat over a little bit at a time to the next cracked area,and then repeat the steps when you have anothersection of the crack glowing.When you are done you will have metal that is physically bonded and will be stronger then if you had stitched it.The only downside is that you may have some pores in the welds,so I would use some stop leak with the first batch of coolant.On the outside of the block a covering of JB weld wont hurt either.If you have to do this welding within about 1" of any machined surface,I would plan on having that surface remachined.Good luck.
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Old 02-07-2004, 04:32 PM
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Go to Ebay Motors and type in 283.
Ive seen several blocks for sale on there and at really low prices. HG
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Old 02-07-2004, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by HemmiGremmie
Go to Ebay Motors and type in 283.
Ive seen several blocks for sale on there and at really low prices. HG
Go to Ebay motors and type in "worthless Chevy motors".
262,265,283 shop come up instantly.
They are at low prices because other people have the sense not to use them.

Like I always say, why build anything other than a roller 350 or a 400?
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Old 02-07-2004, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lluciano77
Go to Ebay motors and type in "worthless Chevy motors".
262,265,283 shop come up instantly.
They are at low prices because other people have the sense not to use them.

Like I always say, why build anything other than a roller 350 or a 400?
Some of us old timers are still fond of the 283's!! Besides, a good cruizer doesn't need 400+h.p. to be enjoyed!! If I took your line of thinking to the extreme --- all chevy engines from the 502" down are now worthless since the 572" is here!!!


jtdchevy, go to www.muggyweld.com you may be able to repair that block yourself!!
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Old 02-07-2004, 06:25 PM
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I'm not just talking performance. Economy too. A roller 350 will get the same or better than a 283. That is why they are worthless.
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Old 02-07-2004, 06:35 PM
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Super Streeter is exactly right,one more suggestion,use nickel weld rod to do it with. I really don't recommend a crack repair though. I do like the old 283s ,not for big power though. The pre 66 blocks could be bored .125 over and most Ive seen had steel cranks,I used to make 302s out of them 4x3.
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Old 02-07-2004, 06:40 PM
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wow jb weld held on a cracked block?
that stuff has a tough time holding intake hoses together
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