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Old 07-20-2011, 11:25 AM
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cracked Edelbrock 1407 carb

SCRAP IT -or- FIX IT
I have been trying to fine tune my carb for the past few weeks (diff jets, rods, air/fuel mix etc) and can't seem to get it where I'm happy with idle and throttle response. My idle fluctuates and my air/fuel mixing does'nt work the way it's suppossed too. It was suggested I replace the base gasket since it might not be sealing correctly to the intake. When I took the carb off I noticed inside under each air/fuel mixture screw there was a small crack, I can only imagine that makes a difference in tuning. (The carb is 15 yrs old but only used about 2 years. for whatever thats worth) My guess is a new carb is the best option?? any thoughts. Thanks

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Old 07-20-2011, 11:33 AM
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I have an ad in classifieds that may be your best solution,check it out.
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 427 ss-rs
SCRAP IT -or- FIX IT
I have been trying to fine tune my carb for the past few weeks (diff jets, rods, air/fuel mix etc) and can't seem to get it where I'm happy with idle and throttle response. My idle fluctuates and my air/fuel mixing does'nt work the way it's suppossed too. It was suggested I replace the base gasket since it might not be sealing correctly to the intake. When I took the carb off I noticed inside under each air/fuel mixture screw there was a small crack, I can only imagine that makes a difference in tuning. (The carb is 15 yrs old but only used about 2 years. for whatever thats worth) My guess is a new carb is the best option?? any thoughts. Thanks
Is it really cracks or casting marks in the aluminum? I would try sealing them with epoxy to see if it makes a difference. If it does, then might consign the car to the dumpster.

My current 1405 has plugs below the idle screws - might be yours were pressed in and seated with too much force
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:50 AM
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It's actually cracked, in fact the further you turn the screws in the more the crack opens up. I thought about sealing the cracks temperarily to see if thats the problem but if I have to adjust the screws and it opens the crack and my sealant comes loose i'm worried about where it might end up.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:01 PM
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well, the trash is were that carb belongs in the first place. Edelbrock should be ashamed for making those carbs! (Vapor locking and sticky accel pump carb)

Get a Holley.

If you want a good street carb, a 3310 holley 750 is a good choice. Cheap, durable, easy to tune, makes good power, and not prone to vapor lock.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:07 PM
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I've heard that advise before
I only drive the car a few times a year and have had bad luck with Holley wanting to leak after it sits for a while. Has that gotten better with new Holley carbs?
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:58 PM
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I have 2 holley 3310's. One on my "fun drag" car and one on my truck. They are both around 15 years old, and neither have cause me any issues. And they tend to sit for long periods.

On the other hand, I have thrown 2 edelbrock carbs in the trash.
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:45 PM
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I second the motion get a good holley or holley style carb from proform or quick fuel if you want. I have a truck that sits all winter long with a proform carb which is a holley basically with out the name and I have never had any problems with fuel leaking. I give it several shots and it fires right up.

I used to hate holley cause of one bad experience and not knowing how to tune them and used edelbrock carbs until I learned how to tune a holley and man I sold both my edelbrock carbs and now just go with holley period and love them. Edelbrock's will give slightly better fuel mileage but a holley can be fine tuned better in my opinion.

The 3310 would be good for something a little bigger or wilder or holley also makes the 1850 model carb which is a 600cfm vacuum secondary and its a very good one as well for small blocks with mild cams and such and its what I use on my milder truck.
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:06 PM
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I've had the 780cfm version 0-3310-1 and used fairly successfully on 460's - but they are way too big for my 302. I've had several 0-1850's and none were been better then door stops even after being made into a 4150. The last one, a 4160 tried to burn my car after the bypass tube seal split. That was the second time for that experience. Yep, they can and do run well after set up. I just don't like dumping gas on my engine every time I want to make any internal change.

I bought the first 1405 right after they came out and used it probably 100M miles on a p/u truck. The next went probably 25M miles and was still running on the car 2 years later with the new owner. The one on my AVATAR car is up and running just fine. Yep, they do take some set up work, but the tuning kit combo's will get them running very well. The cracked body - an anomaly IMO
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:42 PM
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FWIW the cracks you have on that carb are from the idle mixture screws being turned in way too hard/far, they only need to be lightly seated before adjustment is done. If the aluminum has cracked into the transfer slot area, it can render the carb basically useless. And because the base plate is cast w/the body of the carb, replacement isn't an option.

So, a new carb isn't just the best option, in this case it's the ONLY option.

Good luck.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
FWIW the cracks you have on that carb are from the idle mixture screws being turned in way too hard/far, they only need to be lightly seated before adjustment is done. If the aluminum has cracked into the transfer slot area, it can render the carb basically useless. And because the base plate is cast w/the body of the carb, replacement isn't an option.

So, a new carb isn't just the best option, in this case it's the ONLY option.

Good luck.
I kinda wonder about that as there is a fairly robust piece of casting around the idle screws tho there is a plugged passage just below the idle screw boss. Below is a photo of my 1405 - a 600, not a 1407, a 750, but it should be identical exterior wise. That photo also shows the plugs. Maybe dropped maybe even before purchase? A remanufactured carb?? An eBay or swap meet purchase - I had one, worked fine???

I would try the epoxy (it can't go anywhere nor hurt anything) just to rule out other possible problems while waiting the big brown delivery truck



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Old 07-21-2011, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for all the suggestions and opinions.
Dave W, There is a lot of material under the screws on the outside but they are in at an angle and then the slot is right below that. It does look like the screws were turned in to far at one time. I'm still torn what to replace it with. My old Holley worked well but leaked and looking at 454C10's pics it looks like the front bowl has gas stains on it and also the intake under it, thats something thats just not acceptable to me. I've put way to much time, effort and money into making my car look new and fresh.
Thanks again for the input.
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Old 07-21-2011, 10:57 AM
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those aren't leaks. Just a result recent of jet changes.
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Old 07-22-2011, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
I kinda wonder about that...
The photos below of a cracked Edelbrock AVS 800 cfm carb better illustrates the damage I was talking about. It's where the idle mixture screw tries to come through the casting into the throttle bore, not on the outside of the casting:



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Old 07-22-2011, 05:14 AM
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[QUOTE=cobalt327]The photos below of a cracked Edelbrock AVS 800 cfm carb better illustrates the damage I was talking about. It's where the idle mixture screw tries to come through the casting into the throttle bore, not on the outside of the casting:

I cannot imagine someone doing that - wotinhel did they use, an impact wrench? Or was it dropped with the screws all the way in?
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