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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2013, 10:15 AM
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Is this under warranty if so you may want to start the warranty process early on. It may also help to have them involed as they will ask for specific things to be tested and have reasource to make these test easier to complete.

And if its toast you want them involed in the trouble shooting so you will not have to go back over every little detail again and again just to get it replaced.

Thermostats dont like to be touched after they are installed. Once its in it stays until you replace it with a new one. With that said it is very common for thermostats to hang open or closed and cause all types of problems. Best to go all new when you can.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:42 PM
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Head Gasket Leak?

When hot pull your dip stick out and put it on your hot header and if the oil just runs off, your allright but if you hear a silzer noise its blown head gasket? Old way of check but now you can take it to auto Zone and they will check it with a raydeater cap vacme gage.
Doug Ray
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2013, 05:42 PM
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Alright guys sorry I haven't been on in a while, I decided to take a break from this headache. My cooling issues haven't been as bad as they were, but the temperture is still going over the normal 210 heat range that it was always ran at strong. I picked up a tee and some vacuum line from NAPA today, so I can check the vacuum pressure. And my Actron fuel pressure fitting and tester came in the mail the other day, so I can see how the pump is doing, I want to say its the original pump but idk. The surging idle issue is getting much worse now, almost to the point of stalling. And its now starting to surge while stopped in gear. I've also noticed that on a cold start, the engine misses roughly five times and then the idle smoothes out, until it goes into the surging fit. My thermostat housing is also start to seap coolant and chunks of what seems to be gasket material.....I guess I'll take that off again and see what's up.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:51 PM
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loss of coolant

has the rad bin cleaned,sounds like restriction in the rad which causes cavitation,flow restriction causes the water pump to cavitate,airiating water
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:40 PM
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Alrighty guys, I have the vacuum results in. At start up I read 18 lbs with rapid shaking, then it started to fluctuate between 16 and 18 lbs for a few minutes before deciding to drop to 14 lbs and fluctuate at a steady rate between 14 and 16. That reading isn't at my worst idle, I still had the fluctuating idle, but it was no where near as nasty as it gets in the mornings. My vacuum results pointed to late ignition timing, which confuses me because my timing was dead on, before I started having these problems.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:27 PM
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Post #11---And timing, originally, I set it by unplugging a wire and setting it at 0. I remember at one point i went to check my timing after all this happened. I unplugged the wire, and the truck wouldn't start. Then i started it, and unplugged it and it went into a violent fit until it finally died, even after i plugged the wire back in after it was running. I haven't tried messing with that since that episode, because it ran fine was i cleared the computer.

Are you talking about setting the ignition timing? If so, your timing could be way off. 0 degrees is not enough advance. A retarded engine can run hot and do all sorts of crazy things. Please explain your timing method.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:03 PM
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Jaw22w: The factory setting for these engines is 0 degrees, not sure why, it's probably just the distributor and computer set up.

But I have great news, regarding my idle, as of the last hour of working on the truck. I hooked up my laptop to the ECU, and used my Tuner Pro Rt software. I ran it for awhile watching the engine run through the computer, and realized that my TPS sensor didn't look quite right. Normal factory TBI units, TPS sensor should sit at 0.50 volts, my setup is required to run at 0.65 volts at idle. The computer showed my new, BWD TPS sitting at 1.45 volts. Essentially making my computer think I'm sitting there with my foot on the gas, while not getting the proper air flow required, for the amount of gas, I was getting. So I replaced the BWD TPS, with my old fully adjustable TPS, and set it up at 0.65 volts. Idle ran a steady 650 RPM, for 20 minutes. I also checked my fuel pressure before my filter, and it's sitting steady at 11 PSI, and when I turn off the engine the PSI drops down to 8 PSI and holds it. I still need to wait until the morning to see how it does cold, but I think, I can finally say, case closed with the dramatic idle issue. As for the slight rise in temperature, about an 1/8 inch past 210 degrees, I haven't got that figured out yet. I might flush the radiator, since some of you, are suggesting it might be blockage.
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